A Sweet Little Side Trip to Hungary: Eurotrip Part 7

As we were stategically planning out hostel bookings and travel destinations a few weeks ago, Shayla and I encountered a slight problem: we had a whole week where we didn't have anywhere in particular to be! There were two apparent options: either go back to Germany and try to find somewhere else to go, or go off the beaten path and see another country that we weren't planning on travelling to. The choice was evident...off we went to Hungary.

Since we didn't have tons of time, Shayla and I decided to mainly stick to Budapest, but we also spent two days in Eger, just two hours out of the capital.

Prior to my arrival, I had heard many good things about Budapest, so naturally, I was very excited to see it! It did not disappoint - to say the least! If I had to choose a favorite destination so far (for fear of torture via bamboo under my fingernails), Budapest would have to be it. There are endless things to do - from visiting the castle, parliament buildings, and synagogue (the largest operating synagogue in the world), to climbing Castle Hill to get some amazing photos of the city, four days was hardly enough time to see all of Budapest.

Budapest is a classic city with a very modern feel. Just walking around and seeing the buildings, town squares, and different people is a great way to spend the day.

There is a giant market building where you can buy all sorts of fruits, vegetables, meats, and Hungarian take-away food (delicious). The upstairs of the building is dedicated to selling souvinirs - this is the place to come to get your flags, magnets, stacking dolls and t-shirts. Did I mention how reasonably priced everything is? That was another appealing aspect of Hungary - it was very affordable. The market was the perfect place to buy some gifts for friends at home, as well as adding to my own ever-growing collection of European souvinirs.

The Buda Castle is a must-see. It is located on top of a hill overlooking the Danube River, and the views of the city and the Chain Bridge are stunning. We happened to go on a beautiful day - sunny, not a cloud in the sky. Unfortunately, it was 32 degrees, so instead of actually going into the castle, we relaxed in the courtyard. Still, it was a nice walk, and a very worthwhile hangout spot.

For anyone up for a good walk, I would also suggest climbing Castle Hill. If you are visiting in the summer, I would definitely recommend either picking a cooler day to do this, or going in the evening, so as to avoid overheating. From the top of the hill, you can see the entire city from every angle. At night, there are also tons of photo opportunities, including the castle, and the bridges over the Danube. Everything is lit up. It is absolutely gorgeous.

The synagogue is also definitely worth a visit. The you show your student card, you pay 750 HUF, which grants you admission to the synagogue itself, the Jewish museum, and the courtyard.

Although I've been in a fair few synagogues in my life, I have never seen such a gorgeous one! The Budapest synagogue - second largest in the world, and the largest operating one - is a stunning structure, with high windows, and designs among the bricks decorating the outside. On the inside you see chandeliers, and the walls are decorated with ornate mosaic stars-of-David. The Bimah and Ark at the front are elegant, with gold decorations. If you go into the synagogue, remember to cover your shoulders! Guys, you need to cover your heads as well.

The Jewish museum is quite tiny. You climb up several flights of stairs, and enter the museum, which consists of two rooms. One has traditional Jewish items on display, such as Torah scrolls, yarmulkes, menorahs, and tallit (prayer shawls). In the other room, Budapest's Jewish history is outlined, including the early histtory, and the the more recent persecution of the people during the Second World War. We didn't spend too long in the museum, but it was very interesting to see. I was glad to see a display of some aspects of Jewish life that were unrelated to the Holocaust.

The synagogue's peaceful courtyard consists of memorials to many Hungarian Jews who perished during the war. In the centre of the courtyard is the huge silver Tree of Life. On each leaf, the name of a victim of the Holocaust is inscribed. I thought this was a beautiful metaphor.

Another must-see while in Budapest is the House of Terror. Remember, during both WWII and the Cold War, Budapest was a central location, so much political action took place here. The House of Terror, situated in the actual headquarters of both the Nazi and Soviet officers in their respective times of power, is a museum which demonstrates the persecution and hardship forced upon Hungarian citizens during these two brutal regimes.

As you walk through the museum, you read accounts of the goings-on in Budapest during the Second World War and the Cold War. Each room is dedicated to a different aspect of these times: political leadership, the Resistance, labour camps (gulags), uniforms, party propaganda, and so on. Many of the rooms show video interviews from people who lived through these times. One room also shows footage from trials which took place during the Cold War.

The basement of the House of Terror is definitely the most disturbing part of the museum. That is where the prison cells are; the torture of prisoners also took place here. Most of the cells are very tight, confined spaces, and believe it or not, this was the kind of cell you would hope to be kept in. There were other tiny cells where prisoners would be forced to stand in water. Other cells were so low that the inmates could not stand up, others were so narrow that one could stand, but not move nor turn around. Prisoners were only fed once a day - at most - and in some cells, the officers could cut off the airflow. In a room off to the side of the cells was the gallows. Apparently no excecutions took place in this particular building, "only" fatal beatings and torture. It was hard to believe that this was happening in a building right in the middle of one of Budapest's main streets. Here was another example of man's inhumanity to man that astounded me. It really made me thing about the state of the world, and how anyone anywhere could believe that the breaking the body and spirit of another human being was acceptable.

Although it is definitely not a joyful palce, the House of Terror is very interesting and informative. I learned quite a few things about WWII and the Cold War that I had not known prior to visiting. Go!

Other things in Budapest that are strongly recommended (that we did not get to do because of our time crunch) are the mineral baths, which are basically a collection of hot springs. Word is that they are extremely relaxing. Also, Memento Park, which is a collection of confiscated Communist statues and propaganda, would have been worth a visit. Apparently they show a documentary about spying, and gathering secret information. Who knows, that could come in handy!

I can honestly say that I loved Budapest! It's beautiful, chock-full of things to do, affordable, and brimming with unbelievable history.

Eger (egg-AIR), a smaller town just two hours away from Budapest, is also worth a visit, especially if you're big into wine. We didn't do any of the wine tasting, but I've heard that Eger's Valley of Beautiful Women is the place to be in Hungary if wine's your thing.

Before travelling to Eger, I had heard that it was a bit of a dive, and not really worth going. If you're a party animal, then definitely give it a miss. But if you're just looking for some down time, I would suggest spending a day or two. There aren't tourist attractions galore in the town, but there is - surprise - a castle (with staff in full medieval costumes), several cathedrals, and a pretty little town square. The town is very traditional, and the views are unbeatable. Everything is decently priced, and it is not too touristy, which is a nice change from the big cities.

A great (and very reasonably priced) daytrip from Eger is to Aggtelek, where you can take a tour through the ancient Baradla caves. You take a three-hour bus ride to Aggtelek (where there really isn't much of anything), and then choose a one-, three-, or four-hour tour. We took the one hour tour because of the time issues. Although it was 30 degrees outside, the temperature in the caves is a consistent 10 degrees, which was actually quite a nice change. I had to pull my hoodie out of my bag for the first time in quite a while.

The tour was in Hungarian, so I can't say I learned a whole lot, and when everyone else oohed, aahed, or laughed, I felt quite lost. Hoever, the inseide of the cave was very cool. The rock formations, and different colours were beautiful, and in one part of the cave, the acoustics were so good that concerts were held there on occasion. I never would have expected that! I would definitely suggest the Baradla cave tour.

The landscape in Hungary is unbelievably beautiful. It reminds me quite a bit of Canada's Okanagan. Everything in the country was gorgeous, and I definitely want to go back! I only have two real complaints: some people (in stores and such) seem a little angry, and there doesn't seem to be peanut butter anywhere in the country. For the most part, however, I am so, so glad that I got to experience Hungary.

Now I'm in Berlin. After three countries, four trains, and fifteen hours...beginning at 4:40 this morning, I have finally made it. Don't ask me how I survived it...I really couldn't tell you!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Prague, Cesky Krumlov and Olomouc - Czech it Out!: Eurotrip Part 6 (continued)

As I write this, I am in the amazing city of Budapest. Although I've only been here for a couple of hours, I'm already loving it! There's so much history, there are tons of modern-day activities...and it's all in my price range! What more could a girl ask for really? Did I mention that The Loft Hostel (home for the next two nights), is one of the most welcoming, upbeat places I've stayed so far?

Shayla and I spent the zlast two nights in Olomouc (O-lo-moutz) in the Czech Republic. It's a cute little university town in Moravia. Olomouc is a must-see destination for travellers, especially those who are desperately seeking some chill time. It has a reputation of being like Prague, but without the swarms of tourists. Some people even went so far as to tell me that it was better than Prague. Well, you all know how I feel about Prague. This was something I had to see for myself.

Upon arriving in Prague, I could see that "Prague without the tourists" pretty much sums up Olomouc. The cobblestone streets, Baroque architecture, and Eastern influence echo those of Prague, but the lack of tourists - and potential pickpockets - is very refreshing.

The Poet's Corner Hostel, where we stayed, felt more like staying in someone's home than in a hostel. It's quiet and extremely welcoming. The people who run the hostel are very informative - we were given a whole list of things to do during our stay. They also let us know about a hockey game going on that night, and a Euro Leage football game the next night! I wouldn't have had the slightest clue about either had they not told me. I would definitely recommend the Poet's Corner.

The hockey game - Olomouc versus a Slovakian team - was mad fun! Although the seats were nowhere near as packed as you would see at a Canadian game, the fans were all riled, wearing jerseys and scarves, and the energy was contagious! A big group in the stands had a drum, and they were belting out some intense Czech cheers. I wish I could have joined in. Alas, Slovakia won the game (5 - 3), but the experience was definitely worth it! I couldn't help noticing that European hockey is a little different than Canadian - the main thing being less fighting. Don't get me wrong, it was a pretty physical game, but I didn't expect to see the gloves drop. Oh, did I mention I only paid 20 Kc? That's $1.30 Canadian.

The football (soccer for you North Americans), was an intense match between Olomouc and Aberdeen. We paid 150 Kc ($10.00 Canadian) for front row seats! The energy was overwhelming, and the fans were absolutely insane. I thought the hockey game was loud! The wave went around the stadium at least fifty times, and Scottish and Czech cheers echoed throughout the whole area. Now I see why Europeans take their football so seriously! Olomouc won...it was so much fun to be there when the home team took the glory. It was on my bucket list to see a European football match, and now I can safely say I've done it! It really was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Olomouc's Old Town is also worth a visit. In the main town square is an astronomical clock, which "performs" at noon. The bells ring, and the little wooden people at the top spin around in circles. It's worth a viewing if you happen to be in the area, but honestly, I wouldn't go out of my way to see it. Do not, by any means, expect a Disneyland "It's a Small World"-esque show!

Cafe 87, just around the corner from the hostel, is a great place to get all sorts of coffees, baked goods, and breakfast items. (I strongly suggest the cheese and tomato toast, and the chocolate pie). Everything is affordable, and there is internet for only 1 Kc a minute.

Olomouc is still somewhat of a hidden gem of the Czech Republic, but I'm very glad I went! I would advise anyone in the area to stop by for a day or two!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Prague, Cesky Krumlov and Olomouc - Czech It Out!: Eurotrip Part 6

Here I am in the Czech Republic! So far, the countryside and the cities have been the most beautiful that I've seen - not that there's anything wrong with the rest of te European countries that I've travelled through, but I really have been blown away by the Czech Republic. It is definitely the most different country I've been to on this trip so far; the Eastern influence is evident, the prices are lower, and the people (in Prague at least) are, well, not as friendly.

Our journey started early on July 31 when we caught a train from Munich to Prague. We were all ready for a good sleep during the six-hour train ride, but alas, we were awakened by a rowdy bachelor party in the next compartment over. It was nine in the morning, and they were all completely plastered. It was almost impressive. We heard German drinking songs floating through the walls, accompanied by the occasional "Ja baby!"

Did I mention that the guest of honour was sporting a full-size, arseless pink bunny costume? As he turned around, we were given a full-on view of his tight, black man thong. His men-in-waiting wore matching shirts, which read "Hey bunnies, watch out for the wasted pink one! It's his last day of freedom!" They were also wearing lederhosen. They asked us if we could help them out, by cutting the tags out of our underwear (for reasons unknown). We politely declined, and carried on our train ride. Gotta love Germany.

Before arriving in Prague, I had been told many, many times that it was the most beautiful city I would ever see. Obviously, my expectations were pretty high. Well, let me tell you first hand that it is the most gorgeous city I have seen so far! Each building has a slightly different archetectural pattern and colour. They all compliment each other perfectly. The cobblestone streets lead to a cute little square in the Old Town, which is surrounded by restaurants, shops and churches. I must admit, I'm feeling a little churched out, but they were still stunning buildings.

We stayed at the Czech Inn (very witty). Although it's actually a hostel, it looks like a hotel. It's very clean, the staff are knowledgeable, and it's actually pretty decently priced for what it is.

The Prague Castle is a must. Although it is nowhere near as elegant on the inside as the Schloss Schonbrunn, it has a very cool surrounding courtyard to wander, and the terraces all offer million-dollar views. You can see the town, the hills and the river from different angles.

We also walked across the famous Charles Bridge (several times). It offers even more amazing photo opportunities.

Another must-see is the Jewish Quarter, part of which was walled off in the 11th century. In this part of town there are synagogues galore, a small market, and shops which sell Jewish memorabilia (like yarmulkes, mezuzahs and mogen Davids). I may be biased, but I thought it was pretty cool. Up till that point, I had hardly seen any evidence that Jewish people even existed in Europe. It was a neat contrast.

My friends may have gotten sick of me going on and on about how amazing I thought Prague was, but I couldn't help it! I was overwhelmed by its beauty!

Kutna Hora, a small town just over an hour out of Prague, is an excellent daytrip to take. Although there aren't zillions of tourist attractions, it's a cute little town, and it's interesting to see a more tradtional Czech town. The main reason we went, however, was to see the bone cathedral.

There are quite a few cathedrals in Kutna Hora, but as I already mentioned, I'm feeling the symptoms of ABC (Another Bloody Church) syndrome, so I decided to just stick to the bone cathedral, as it was highly recommended - and really, how often do you walk into a church decorated with human bones?

It's very cheap to enter the bone cathedral. It's pretty small, but by no means is it an in-and-out tourist destination. There are chandeliers, crests, wall decorations, and even huge piles of human bones (the extras?) Outside, there is a large cemetary. I learned that the people buried there were the wealthy citizens. However, during the plague, people were dropping like flies. There were more bodies than the town knew what to do with, and thus, the bones of Kutna Hora's Average Joes were used to adorn the inside of the church! It was easily one of the most bizarre things I've ever seen, but it was very interesting to learn the background information, and when you think about it, it was actually kind of resourceful...

Since Shayla and I were heading to Cesky Krumlov after Prague, and Steph and Julie were on to Berlin, we all decided to go out for dinner. Was it ever worth it! The main dishes were all amazing, the side dishes were mouth-watering, and the dessert was phenomenal! The Klub Architektu restaurant is located in a 15th century cellar with a very cool, relaxed vibe. There were plenty of veggie options, and it was actually reasonably priced - considering all the food we got. The hot chocolate was probably the best I've ever had! After eating bread, peanut butter, and canned food for weeks, it was one of the best dinner experiences I've had in a long, long time. I strongly suggest it!

Overall, Prague is definitely one of my favorite places so far. It's gorgeous, and it lacks that intimidating big-city feel.

Cesky Krumlov, a town south of Prague, is the perfect place to come for R&R. It has tiny, cobblestone streets (which can be terrifying when cars come out of nowhere and try to drive through the people). There are cute little shops, restaurants and hotels, and the river runs right smack in the middle of town. A pub crawl (rafting down the river and stopping at different bars) is offered for 250 KC, but because it's been cold and rainy for the last couple of days, we decided to give it a pass.

The Hostel 99 (where we're staying) is a quaint little place in the middle of town. It's clean, the staff is friendly, it's decently priced, and well equipped with internet, a kitchen and a DVD collection. Albeit some, er, eccentric roommates, it's been a good place.

Tomorrow we're on to Olomouc, and from there Budapest. I'm looking forward to seeing some of Eastern Europe that I wasn't expecting to!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The Dachau Concentration Camp: How I Saw It

I was feeling the typical stomach-tightening, sweaty-palmed fear as I rode the bus out of Munich on my way to the Dachau concentration camp. I was worried about what I would see. Would I be able to handle it? After all, here I was, walking into a place where so many people of my faith were persecuted, tortured, and ultimately murdered.

Dachau was opened in 1933 as an internment camp for political prisoners. All of the other concentration and extermination camps in Europe were modelled after the very place I stood just yesterday.

Upon arrival, our guide, Alan, gave us the background history of the camp. He told us that the numbers of people who died there were inaccurate, because Jews, Gypsies and old or weak prisoners were not counted in the death toll because they were not considered people. Also, the majority of bodies in the mass graves were not identifiable.

To get into Dachau, students pay €18, which includes transportation, admission, and a guided tour. This struck me as bizarre. Here I am, a Jew, paying to get into a Nazi camp.

First off, we watched a 22 minute documentary, which basically outlined the history and goings-on inside the camp from 1933 to 1945. And then we walked in. We entered through the iron gate, and there were those words: Arbeit macht frei. Work makes you free. The big lie.

Upon walking into Dachau, you come across a huge gravel compound (where roll call was performed every day). To your right is a multi-purpose building, once the maintenance building, jail cells, execution area, and later, a war-crime court. Today, it is a museum. There are various memorials, including a sculpture depicting bodies entwined in barbed wire, honoring the suicides committed at Dachau. There is also a colourful mosaic representing the different groups persecuted here.

On the left are two barracks. The rest were destroyed in the 1960s. I learned that the barracks we walked through were not, in fact, original. They were built as exact replicas of the ones there during the war, but they were not authentic. For me, this took away from the effect somewhat.

After the barracks, we were shown guard towers, and the deep ditch, electric fence, and cement wall, which was the Nazis` surefire way of keeping prisoners in. Also situated here were three memorials: Jewish, Roman Catholic, and Protestant. I found it interesting how the Protestant memorial did not have any right angles. Alan explained that this was to defy the order of the war.

Then we turned the corner and arrived at what can only be described as a "death factory". It involved the disinfecting room, crematorium, corpse holding rooms...and the infamous gas chamber. There is no recorded evidence that the gas chamber at Dachau was ever used, but of course that is not necessarily accurate. It felt absolutely sick to my stomach walking through there.

It was so surreal being in a place where, had I been born in another time and place, I would have been forced into. I feel almost guilty about how lucky I am.

The sight of the gas chamber has really stuck with me. It had a low ceiling, no more than 10 feet high, and even in bright daylight it was dark, save for the small bit of light seeping through the viewing window. This was where the Nazis would stand, and watch the victims die their slow, agonizing death. It was so painful being in that tiny, stuffy room. It was so hard to come to terms with the human atrocities that had occurred right where I was standing.

Before leaving Dachau, I noticed that part of the international memorial included a plaque which read "Never Again" in five different languages. How ironic. It has happened many times since the Holocaust, and it`s happening all over the world today. The only words that come to mind when I try to describe the situation are FUCKED UP.
I`m so glad that I got the opportunity - privilege if you will - to walk through a hands-on display of a horrific part of my religious history. A history which essentially affected everyone. I strongly suggest that everyone visiting Europe visits a concentration camp or Holocaust museum. It doesn`t help us change the world situation if we choose to shelter ourselves in the favorable parts of the places we visit. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet, and see the good, the bad and the ugly.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I`d love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Sacre Torte, a Palace, and Damn Good Beer: Eurotrip Part 4

Here I am in Munich, the heart of Bavaria, and one of the more cultural parts of Germany. The last few days have been a whirlwind trip through Austria, and then back into Germany. I am currently staying at a hostel called the "Easy Palace". No joke. I will not turn away any judgment.

Last week, we spent three days in Vienna, a city famous for its classy lifestyle, gorgeous architecture, and sacre torte...which I didn`t actually try, but the chocolate cake exceeded its expectations with flying colours.

Although I was warned that accommodation in Vienna would be pricey, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Wombat`s hostel was actually one of the more affordable places I`ve stayed in so far! It had a very funky, welcoming atmosphere, spacious rooms, and friendly staff. I would strongly suggest it.

Vienna has an entire museum quarter, where you can flash your student card and go visit paintings by artists like Klimt and Schiele. It was €6.50 to get into one museum, so Shayla and I decided to call it a day after that one. We were looking for Klimt`s masterpiece "The Kiss", but found that we were in fact in the wrong museum. On the brigt side, I discovered that I am now a big fan of Egon Schiele`s bizarre work.

You can find all sorts of souvenirs at Vienna`s shops - the shopping wasn`t nearly as pricey as I imagined, although by no means the cheapest.

Every Saturday there is a flea market set up by the Old Town. We went with hopes of finding some decently priced souvenirs, and although quite a few stands do sell wallets, scarves and jewelery, the majority of them look like odds and ends that people have rooted out of the deep, dark crannies of their homes, and attempted to put up for sale. It`s ridiculously crowded, and after a while, it gets agitating, and I couldn`t wait to leave.

The buildings in Vienna`s old town are all incredibly beautiful, but the highlight for me was the Schloss Schönbrunn, the Hapsburg Palace.

For €13.60 (student price), you can take a tour around the first floor, and then walk through the gorgeous imperial gardens, view the property from the panoramic terrace - breathtaking - and then try your luck finding the way through a hedge maze. Fair warning: the signs in the garden are very misleading, and finding your way TO the maze is actually more challenging than the maze itself. It is well worth it in the end though!

Although I will freely admit that I am not a huge museum person, I`m very glad I saw the Schloss Schönbrunn - I mean, how many times do I get to hang out in a palace?


Vienna is definitely a must-see for anyone travelling Central Europe (that almost goes without saying). It`s rich in culture, cuisine, and pleasantly surprising affordable accommodations.

Salzburg, Austria (famous for its musical talent, Mozart, and even moreso, The Sound of Music) is the most perfect, idyllic town I`ve even seen. Not only is it surprisingly affordable, but it has a very laid-back, friendly welcoming vibe. The whole city, not just the hills, are alive with The Sound of Music. Everywhere you turn there are tours, visuals, or souvinirs dedicated to the classic film.

Shayla, Steph, Julie and I did not take a tour around Salzburg because it was quite expensive (€33), but we did see some of the places where the movie was filmed, such as the fountain in the central square (where Julie Andrews belts out "I Have Confidence"), the steps in a city garden (where part of "Do Re Me" is performed), and the back of the house used as the Von Trapp family villa (on a lake just outside of town, surrounded by a swimming pool and bike path). I can`t wait to watch the movie again, and point out to anyone who will listen all the places I was!

I would strongly push a trip to Salzburg to anyone in or around Austria. The cathedrals, fountains and gardens are absolutely gorgeous, the city is very clean, and it had a fun, welcoming atmosphere, which only added to the allure.

Munich, our next stop, where I currently sit, is the capital of Bavaria. Before arriving, everyone I knew who had been to Munich told me that it was the absolute best place to go in Germany. To be honest, I haven`t felt exactly that way. Don`t get me wrong, I really like Munich - although it has somewhat of a big-city feel, it seems much more cultured and welcoming than Frankfurt. I`ve come to the conclusion that the nightlife must be what all the fuss is about.

I`m not going to lie, I really enjoyed the beer hall (built in the 1500s, the oldest in Munich, and home to the hugest beer mugs I`ve ever seen). The Old Town is very beautiful, and the English Garden - bigger than both Central and Hyde Parks - is stunning, and a great place to come together and relax.

There are some great day trips from Munich, such as the Dachau concentration camp (which I visited), and the Neuschwanstein Castle (built by the crazy King Ludwig, and model to Walt Disney`s dream castle). Steph and Julie are there as I write this.

Despite Munich not exactly being the be-all-and-end-all of Germany (in my opinion), I`m glad I spent some time here. There is no shortage of things to do, people to meet, and beer to drink. It is a must for anyone visiting Bavaria.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I`d love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The End of Germany (for now): Eurotrip Part 3

Here I am sitting in a funky little hostel in Vienna! After surviving a seven-hour train trip, I've decided to wind down and record the next saga of Eurotrip 2009!



After one relaxing but quick day in Bonn, Shayla and I took an hour train ride to Frankfurt where we met Steph and Julie. The hostel we stayed in (the Frankfurt Hostel) was quite nice, although it was huge. It was also conveniently located in the sketchier part of town, with an abundance of hookers, sex shops and other shady looking people and places.

To be honest, I didn't become a huge fan of Frankfurt. I'm really glad we made the decision to only stay one night and then move on. It was stifling hot that day, and the smog in the air only made it worse. I was sweating bullets after being outside for five minutes, and I found that after walking around for a few hours we were all totally drained - props to Steph for battling jet lag and coming with us!

Because Frankfurt is one of the world's corporate capitals, many of the buildings are huge skyscrapers, giving off that intimidating, big-city feel. However, it felt like any generic big city. There was much less culture in Frankfurt than Bonn or Cologne. The only thing we could think of to do was walk to the Old City, and even then the shopping was expensive. 4€ for a shot glass? Come on! Perhaps if I had more dough to blow I would have had a better time in Frankfurt. I know that there are much worse places in the world that I could have ended up, but if I may give my honest opinion, I would suggest backpackers in Germany give Frankfurt a miss - or stay one night at most!

Heidelberg - where we found ourselves next - was the complete opposite to the hustle and stress of Frankfurt. With a reputation of being one of Germany's more romantic cities, it had a very laid-back, welcoming atmosphere, much like Bonn. Although Heidelberg isn't the home of hundreds of amazing tourist attractions, just walking around the cobblestone streets and seeing all the charming buildings in the Old Town is pretty satisfying! The shopping is quite reasonably priced, and the people are all so friendly. For example, one of the staff at Steffis hostel (which was unfortunately booked up when we arrived) phoned around and landed us a room at another youth hostel. She really went out of her way, and I know we were all VERY grateful!

Anyone visting Heidelberg should definitely make a point of visiting the Schloss, a castle on a hill overlooking the city. Not only is it a small €1.50 when you flash your handy dandy student card, but it has the most unbelievable view of the city - from up there you can see everything! Besides viewpoints you can find gift shops, a pharmacy museum, picturesque courtyards, and a wine cellar with the most gigantic kegs I've ever seen inside the castle. Because it is a bit of a climb (over 300 steps) to get there, I would definitely suggest going in the evening if the day is a scorcher.

We moved on from Heidelberg the next day and stayed in Freiburg for a night. Freiburg is another cute, traditional German town in the heart of the world-famous Black Forest. Although stories of sorcerers, witches and werewolves (think Hansel and Gretel) surround the Black Forest, I can honestly say that I LOVED it - but that could be because I managed to avoid a nasty encounter with a werewolf or witch. I was surprised to find that the Black Forest was less evergreen-y, and much more comparable to the rainforests on Vancouver Island - ferns and all. The humidity everywhere I've been so far is unreal - and it's doing crazy things to my hair!


We did see bakeries selling delicious-looking Black Forest cake all over Freiburg, but we made the tragic mistake of going hiking first, and when we ventured back into town, the cake was sold out - everywhere! I'll probably never live that down.

The weather in the Black Forest set the perfect mood that day - it was pretty dark (although not cold), and there was distant thunder. Althought there was a huge downpour earlier in the day, the rain stopped long enough for us to go for a good hike. Flocks of crows kept flying over us, and quite a few times we saw forks of lightning that can really only be described as "badass". I can see where the stories come f
rom. All in all, the Black Forest exceeded the expectations I had!

Now, here I sit in Vienna. We had to wake up at 6:00 am to catch a train back to Frankfurt (joy), and from there, we rode to Vienna. It hurts me to think that the train ride was only an hour shorter than the flight from Calgary to Glasgow. However, I have no doubt that Vienna will be worth it!

We're spending three days in Vienna, one in Salzburg (where the hills are alive), backtracking to Munich and Dachau, and then heading to Prague...and from there who knows? I can't believe that I've been here a week! It feels like it's been both longer and shorter.

Happy belated birthday, Mom! For now, I think I'm going to retire back to my room in the Wombat's hostel. I need my beauty sleep!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Chocolate, Stairs, and a Hint of Relaxation: Eurotrip Part 2

Well, here I am in an internet cafe in Frankfurt! The last three days have definitely been somewhat whirlwind, but fantastic none the less!

After leaving Amsterdam, Shayla and I made our way to Cologne, Germany's sixth largest city. Also, Germany's oldest. About 90 percent of Cologne was destroyed during WWII, but thankfully, some of the oldest parts survived, and we were able to see them.

Like Amsterdam, Cologne is busy, and therefore I don't feel the least bit threatened, nervous, or paranoid about being pick pocketed. We walked EVERYWHERE, and when I get home I'm going to need a world-class foot massage...any takers?

Unlike Amsterdam, Cologne is much easier to find your way around. In Amsterdam, every street has a row of beautiful brick buildings and a canal. It's gorgeous, but I found that every street tends to blend together in one's memory, making it tricky to find where you're going. In Cologne, the buildings are much more distinctive, and although we've been lost a fair few times there are more landmarks. If you can find the Rhine River, you can find almost any tourist attraction. And you can see the Dom from most angles of the city, helping you find your way downtown.



The Dom was the first thing we saw when we got off the train. "Mind blowing" is a huge understatement. We were shouting out "wow!" at our first glance. The Dom is a huge, HUGE cathedral. which survived the bombings of WWII. It has the most stunning stained glass windows, turrets and steeples I've ever seen. You can walk around inside (for free), and from the inside you can see how gigantic it is. Sculptures of saints stare down at you from every angle, and row upon row of pews line the aisles.

Shayla and I paid 1 € (reduced rate when you flash your International Student Card), and climbed the belfry in the Dom. You walk up over 500 stairs...in a tight, dimly lit spiral staircase. Unlike the last bell tower I climbed in Ecuador, the stairs seemed quite solid, the railings were stable, and the upper ledge (over 300 feet in the air) is fenced off so that there is literally no chance of falling. Was it any less terrifying? No, it was not.

After climbing back down all those stairs, we decided to stop in Cologne's famous chololate museum. With your student card you can get in for 5 €. The museum shows how chocolate is made, beginning in the rainforests and ending in the shops. Did you know that 75% of cocoa farmers have never even tasted a piece of chocolate? I didn't.

Upstairs in the museum is the chocolate factory, where they hand out a free sample. I'm not going to lie, I was a little disappointed that there weren't more samples, but I would still suggest the museum to anyone travelling in Cologne.

There are tons and tons of Kebab shops in Cologne (pretty much the only places open past 7, besides the bars), and the other night I ate the most phenomenal veggie kebab known to humankind. Kudos!

The next day we headed to Bonn (just south of Cologne...Beethoven's hometown, and West Germany's capital until 1990). Bonn is not as touristy as Cologne, so it is harder to find people who speak fluent English. All in all, Bonn is a beautiful little town, with a more traditional German feel. There aren't tons and tons of things to do, but it's less expensive than Cologne, and very relaxing. I would strongly suggest it!

Now, here I am in Frankfurt. To be honest, I'm glad I came, but one day is enough. Our hostel is right in the area with the most strip clubs and sex shops in the city. It could be a rowdy night.

Until I write again...

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The beginning of Eurotrip 2009!

Well, here it is: Eurotrip 2009! I'm finally here after two whole years of making and changing plans! After a long, painstaking wait in the Calgary International Airport, another painful 8 hours in the air, and a delayed flight in London Gatwick airport, we landed! So far I've only been in Amsterdam for a day and a half, but after 8 ish hours of walking today, I can safely say that I've seen a whole lot of the original Sin City!

After arriving at the Schipol airport, buying a ticket and catching a train last night, we were given some vague directions to our hostel...and after wandering with increasingly heavy backpacks, and stress levels hitting the roof, we made it! The Stayokay Stadstoelen hostel is pretty big, and extremely expensive, but for two nights in Amsterdam, it has proven clean, and it's near all the good stuff.

Today, Shayla and I met up with her friend Sjoerd, who is local to Holland, and he took on the role of tour guide, which he perfected! He took us all around the city. We saw gorgeous old churches, went on a canal tour around the city (the canals, might I add, are the only reason why The Netherlands aren't under the sea right now), sampled Jupiler beer (excellent), and of course, walked through the infamous Red Light District...much of which has been shut down.



It's pretty mind blowing to see all of those women of all nationalities standing there behind the glass wearing fancy lingerie and doing their best to lure men their way. Although it's a must for any traveller in Amsterdam, I found it quite sad. The Red Light District is peppered with sex shops, peep shows, sketchy nightclubs, and "coffee shops" (where you can buy all kinds of dope). Photography is prohibited in the Red Light District, so despite how badly I wanted some visual memories, I had to restrain. Not only did I want to be respectful towards the prostitutes (laugh if you will), but I've heard that they can get pretty angry and sometimes violent...which I think I'd like to avoid if at all possible...after all, I've only been here a day.

Despite all the "be careful" warnings I received before leaving, I can honestly say that in Amsterdam, I did not feel threatened or uncomfortable at all. It was nice to have a local with us - especially in the Red Light District, but for the most part, everyone is friendly, and if you keep your wits about you and are aware of your surroundings - like you would be at home - you're guaranteed to have a lovely time!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

I promise that I'll get some pictures up soon! Also, once we move on to Cologne, Frankfurt (where we meet up with Steph and Julie) and Heidlberg, expect some more blogging!

The Biggest AdrenaLINE Rush EVER

I would strongly suggest ziplining at AdrenaLINE to travellers in the Victoria, BC area. AdrenaLINE is located in Sooke, which is about an hour drive west of Victoria. Ziplining is a great activity for team-bonding, parties, people seeking adventure, or stress busting.

I would like to make it clear that ziplinging is not for everyone. While it is a little nerve-wracking, and many people (including myself) find themselves shaking after the first line, if you are deathly afraid of heights and/or small areas, I would say give this one a pass.

Upon arriving at AdrenaLINE, a small building attached to a liquor store (how convenient), my two friends and I were given waivers to sign. Obviously, they instruct you to read everything closely. Unfortunately, I read the 'accidents' section a little TOO closely. I wish I hadn't. I would suggest skimming over this part, leaving most of it to your imagination, and just getting right to signing your name at the bottom.

After signing our lives away, my friends and I were grouped with seven other people (there are usually 10 to a group). Two guides were assigned to our group - one to send us off in fashion, and one to catch us. They showed us how to attach our harnesses - uncomfortable as hell - and helmets.

After being strapped into our harnesses, the guides took us up onto the platform of the 'bunny line', and gave us a very thorough rundown of how exactly ziplining worked. They demonstrated how we would be attached to the cable above, and how to step off the platform, committing yourself to midair. At the time, I thought THIS was terrifying. Let me give you a little perspective: the line was 150 ft. long, and about 15 ft. off the ground and I was nervous. There are eight ziplines on the course, ranging from 250 - 1000 ft. long and 60 - 150 ft. high. Remember when I advised height-phobics against ziplining? That would be why.

One of the main things my friends and I were wondering was how do they catch us at the bottom? I mean, we were going to be sailing through the air...they couldn't just stand there and attempt to grab us could they? I was already envisioning myself knocking one of the guides out...potentially causing some sort of expensive lawsuit.

As it turns out, there is a piece of metal attached to the cable, and connected to a rope which the guide at the bottom holds onto. Once you hit that, you slow right down. Amazing - and relieving - really!

After everyone has had a go at the practice line, the group is split into five and five. Each group is driven to the top of the course in an ATV. As one of our guides put it, "You'll be in the trees for the next hour and a half."

The guides stop a few times throughout the drive up to point out interesting enviromental landmarks...like the oldest tree in the forest, an old pipeline built in the early 20th century.

And then they tell you to look up. Waaaaay up. Directly above you is the longest zipline. We were told to watch and listen. Before we could see anything, we heard the distinctive screeching sound of a harness zipping down. Then, we saw the person go flying by. By this point, I was pretty excited, but I was also having a bit of trouble coping with the fact that later that day, that would be me!

The first line, which you approach by walking up a short suspension bridge, is only 250 ft. long, but it was much higher up, and generally looked more menacing than the practice line. Each line has a name. This one was called 'Committment'. Why? Because once you zip this one, you are committed to the rest of the course.

As I found out, ziplining is really a lot more fun than it is scary! By the second line, I was enjoying myself, and waiting eagerly for the next lines, as opposed to feeling dread. Before sending you off, the guides would make conversation, which was definitely a good calm-down trick. After every single line, whichever guide was waiting at the bottom made sure I was ok.

The guides let us try some 'tricks' down some of the next lines, including going down backwards, which was actually pretty sweet, considering how dangerous it sounds. After about four lines, you have cross another longer suspension bridge. I've never been a big fan of bridges, and I would be lying if I said I wasn't the least bit sketched out. BUT, I will say that it wasn't as bad as I thought. Just keep looking forward!

After zipping a few more lines, we finally arrived at the big one! Let me remind you that you are flying through the air for a whole KILOMETRE! The guides predicted that we would be zipping for about 35 seconds. And I must say, this particular line was probably the most fun! It's definitely not the fastest line on the course, but it is by no means the slowest! There's great scenery all around the line, and your velocity often causes you to spin. It's actually quite handy, you don't even need yo turn your head to get the full-on effect of the surroundings! After coming in for a landing, water is offered (because after flying through the trees all afternoon, you're bound to be a little parched).

The last two lines are the fastest ones in the park: on the second last one (called 'The Flying Fox' in honour of ziplines in Australia), the guides challenge you to spin around twice, and touch a tree on your left and right...which is a lot harder than it sounds! If you succeed, you get to ring the cowbell at the end, which is definitely a bonus.

After completing the course, you are offered a complimentary water bottle, as well as FINALLY being able to take off those harness. My brother, a competitive rock-climber, wears them all the time. I have a new respect for you, Sam!

Afterwards, I heard nothing but good words about the ziplining experience from everyone in the group. It's definitely not something I thought I would be doing during my exam break, but boy am I glad I went!

Close-toed shoes, such as sneakers or hikers, are required for ziplining. I would also recomment comfortable pants, because after a while, that harness can really get to you! Girls with long hair are recommended to put their hair back as well, all in the name of avoiding a nasty accident, involving a caribeaner and some hair.

The staff at AdrenaLINE are great. The guides are personable, helpful, funny, and understanding of nerves! They are knowledgeable about the surrounding environment, and are not hesitant towards questions or concerns!

AdrenaLINE is open weekends only until April 30. After that, it's open daily. For youth (5 - 17) it costs $65 for two hours, and for adults (18+) it's $75. It sounds expensive, but considering the experience, I would say that it's worth every dime. In order to go zipping, you need to call and make a reservation. I'm sure I'll go back - maybe after a few paychecks.

Oh, one more thing: watch out for Sooke-squatch!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all! the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

A (Not-So-Short) Note About Travel

Wow, it's been a while! I've finished my papers, midterms, presentations, etc. (for now), and therefore, it's about time for a rant!

With my Europe trip coming closer, obviously my mind is already over there - even though technically I should be focusing more on my schoolwork, my future, and how I'm actually going to get my room packed up before I go home. But I can't help it! I can't stop thinking about my trip! I have no idea what to expect, and I hardly know anyone who has been to the places I'm going. Think of the stories I'll be able to tell!

First of all, I would like to share one of my most important goals with you. Obviously, down the road I plan to get a degree, a career...good, wholesome things like that. But right now, one thing that surpasses the others in my mind is this: I would like to have visited every continent before I turn twenty-five. Okay, maybe not Antarctica. Six out of seven continents sounds ambitious enough, doesn't it? By this summer, I'll be halfway there. I know that I can do it, it's just a matter of time, commitment, and, alas, money. Once I've touched every continent, I'm not going to stop travelling - don't worry! It just means that I've covered the basics. Think of it as the warm-up run if you will.

Now, why am I really here tonight?

Lately, I've been planning to take on the world and see as many different places, meet as many different people, and experience as many cultures as I possibly can. I'm thrilled to say that I've met tons of like-minded people who value culture and travel.

Unfortunately, I've also met a select few who are complete polar opposites.

I don't mean people who simply don't travel. I understand that travelling - especially backpacking - isn't for everyone. For differing personal, social, or financial reasons, many people choose not to travel. For some it isn't even a choice. Whom I'm addressing here are the ignorant people.

I have heard some pretty unbelievable comments in the way of cultural stereotyping. I am totally, 100% against racial discrimination. When I hear people saying things about these groups which they know nothing about, it drives me absolutely insane. I personally try to take every step I can towards keeping cultural ignorance to a minimum. I feel that the way the world is today, it can't be stressed enough how inappropriate cultural stereotypes and ignorance are - not that they weren't always.

I understand that not everyone is interested in travel or culture. That's fine! Everyone has their thing...mine is travel, yours may be sports, video games, music...the possibilities are limitless! I'm not saying that people who don't travel are all culturally unaware. I know lots of people who haven't left North America who are VERY culturally savvy. I also know people who don't travel, don't know a whole lot about other cultures, but are still very respectful to other groups. Thumbs up!

But if you just don't bother being considerate of other groups, or think it's funny to make inappropriate statements, THAT is what gets me. Before you make a comment that could be offensive, please think before you speak.

On a brighter note, I'm loving the support from my followers! Keep 'er coming!

Also, my brother is washing his Nudies in a matter of weeks! Things are looking up!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all! the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Allow Me to Introduce Myself...

שָׁלוֹם, hola, bonjour, oi and hello!

I'm Rebecca. You'll find the likes of me in Canada. I am an avid traveller, hence why I have chosen to call myself The Wandering Jew. Nothing gets my attention quite as well as a good, healthy dose of culture shock. Any chance I get to experience a new culture, you had better believe that I'm going to take it!

I am currently a first-year journalism student, but I've been writing forever. My main aspiration is to become a freelance travel writer, which is the main reason I started this blog. Let's be honest here, however. It's very rare than anyone can make a living off freelance travel writing alone. In order to be able to support myself, I'll probably have to tide myself over by writing for a bunch of different magazines in between my trips. That means you'll likely see my name in Canadian Living, Flare, Vice, Good Housekeeping, Today's Parent, and - dare I even say it - Cosmo.

I got bitten - hard - by the travel bug when I was seventeen. It was somewhat like the spider bite in Spider-Man, but instead of swinging off buildings and saving numerous lives, I simply have trouble staying in the same place for long periods of time. It all started with a trip to Ecuador, where I was blown away by the huge cultural differences, the friendly people, and the sense of adventure that goes hand in hand with taking a trip to a place that is so different than your normal lifestyle. Before that, I had done a fair bit of camping and travelling within Canada, and I had done the five-star, all-inclusive thing in Mexico, but until I set foot in Ecuador, I had not done any real travelling. Well. I have now sworn to travel out of a backpack, and stay exclusively in hostels so I can get the full-on experience of being in a totally different country.

Since my return from Ecuador, I have become completely obsessed with the idea of travel, and the list of places I want to see in my life could easily cross a football field...but I don't want to waste that much paper. Basically, I'm not picky about my destinations - I want to see it all! Europe, Oceania, Asia, South America, Africa...you name a place, it's most likely on the list.

I'm planning a trip to Europe this summer with my favorite travel mates, which is when the real travel writing will begin. Expect to hear more from me come July - August 2009! I look forward to becoming an online travel guide for you all. And remember, "Not all who wander are lost." (JRR Tolkien)

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all! the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com