Since we didn't have tons of time, Shayla and I decided to mainly stick to Budapest, but we also spent two days in Eger, just two hours out of the capital.
Prior to my arrival, I had heard many good things about Budapest, so naturally, I was very excited to see it! It did not disappoint - to say the least! If I had to choose a favorite destination so far (for fear of torture via bamboo under my fingernails), Budapest would have to be it. There are endless things to do - from visiting the castle, parliament buildings, and synagogue (the largest operating synagogue in the world), to climbing Castle Hill to get some amazing photos of the city, four days was hardly enough time to see all of Budapest.
Budapest is a classic city with a very modern feel. Just walking around and seeing the buildings, town squares, and different people is a great way to spend the day.
There is a giant market building where you can buy all sorts of fruits, vegetables, meats, and Hungarian take-away food (delicious). The upstairs of the building is dedicated to selling souvinirs - this is the place to come to get your flags, magnets, stacking dolls and t-shirts. Did I mention how reasonably priced everything is? That was another appealing aspect of Hungary - it was very affordable. The market was the perfect place to buy some gifts for friends at home, as well as adding to my own ever-growing collection of European souvinirs.
The Buda Castle is a must-see. It is located on top of a hill overlooking the Danube River, and the views of the city and the Chain Bridge are stunning. We happened to go on a beautiful day - sunny, not a cloud in the sky. Unfortunately, it was 32 degrees, so instead of actually going into the castle, we relaxed in the courtyard. Still, it was a nice walk, and a very worthwhile hangout spot.
For anyone up for a good walk, I would also suggest climbing Castle Hill. If you are visiting in the summer, I would definitely recommend either picking a cooler day to do this, or going in the evening, so as to avoid overheating. From the top of the hill, you can see the entire city from every angle. At night, there are also tons of photo opportunities, including the castle, and the bridges over the Danube. Everything is lit up. It is absolutely gorgeous.
The synagogue is also definitely worth a visit. The you show your student card, you pay 750 HUF, which grants you admission to the synagogue itself, the Jewish museum, and the courtyard.
Although I've been in a fair few synagogues in my life, I have never seen such a gorgeous one! The Budapest synagogue - second largest in the world, and the largest operating one - is a stunning structure, with high windows, and designs among the bricks decorating the outside. On the inside you see chandeliers, and the walls are decorated with ornate mosaic stars-of-David. The Bimah and Ark at the front are elegant, with gold decorations. If you go into the synagogue, remember to cover your shoulders! Guys, you need to cover your heads as well.
The Jewish museum is quite tiny. You
climb up several flights of stairs, and enter the museum, which consists of two rooms. One has traditional Jewish items on display, such as Torah scrolls, yarmulkes, menorahs, and tallit (prayer shawls). In the other room, Budapest's Jewish history is outlined, including the early histtory, and the the more recent persecution of the people during the Second World War. We didn't spend too long in the museum, but it was very interesting to see. I was glad to see a display of some aspects of Jewish life that were unrelated to the Holocaust.The synagogue's peaceful courtyard consists of memorials to many Hungarian Jews who perished during the war. In the centre of the courtyard is the huge silver Tree of Life. On each leaf, the name of a victim of the Holocaust is inscribed. I thought this was a beautiful metaphor.
Another must-see while in Budapest is the House of Terror. Remember, during both WWII and the Cold War, Budapest was a central location, so much political action took place here. The House of Terror, situated in the actual headquarters of both the Nazi and Soviet officers in their respective times of power, is a museum which demonstrates the persecution and hardship forced upon Hungarian citizens during these two brutal regimes.
As you walk through the museum, you read accounts of the goings-on in Budapest during the Second World War and the Cold War. Each room is dedicated to a different aspect of these times: political leadership, the Resistance, labour camps (gulags), uniforms, party propaganda, and so on. Many of the rooms show video interviews from people who lived through these times. One room also shows footage from trials which took place during the Cold War.
The basement of the House of Terror is definitely the most disturbing part of the museum. That is where the prison cells are; the torture of prisoners also took place here. Most of the cells are very tight, confined spaces, and believe it or not, this was the kind of cell you would hope to be kept in. There were other tiny cells where prisoners would be forced to stand in water. Other cells were so low that the inmates could not stand up, others were so narrow that one could stand, but not move nor turn around. Prisoners were only fed once a day - at most - and in some cells, the officers could cut off the airflow. In a room off to the side of the cells was the gallows. Apparently no excecutions took place in this particular building, "only" fatal beatings and torture. It was hard to believe that this was happening in a building right in the middle of one of Budapest's main streets. Here was another example of man's inhumanity to man that astounded me. It really made me thing about the state of the world, and how anyone anywhere could believe that the breaking the body and spirit of another human being was acceptable.
Although it is definitely not a joyful palce, the House of Terror is very interesting and informative. I learned quite a few things about WWII and the Cold War that I had not known prior to visiting. Go!
Other things in Budapest that are strongly recommended (that we did not get to do because of our time crunch) are the mineral baths, which are basically a collection of hot springs. Word is that they are extremely relaxing. Also, Memento Park, which is a collection of confiscated Communist statues and propaganda, would have been worth a visit. Apparently they show a documentary about spying, and gathering secret information. Who knows, that could come in handy!
I can honestly say that I loved Budapest! It's beautiful, chock-full of things to do, affordable, and brimming with unbelievable history.
Eger (egg-AIR), a smaller town just two hours away from Budapest, is also worth a visit, especially if you're big into wine. We didn't do any of the wine tasting, but I've heard that Eger's Valley of Beautiful Women is the place to be in Hungary if wine's your thing.
Before travelling to Eger, I had heard that it was a bit of a dive, and not really worth going. If you're a party animal, then definitely give it a miss. But if you're just looking for some down time, I would suggest spending a day or two. There aren't tourist attractions galore in the town, but there is - surprise - a castle (with staff in full medieval costumes), several cathedrals, and a pretty little town square. The town is very traditional, and the views are unbeatable. Everything is decently priced, and it is not too touristy, which is a nice change from the big cities.
A great (and very reasonably priced) daytrip from Eger is to Aggtelek, where you can take a tour through the ancient Baradla caves. You take a three-hour bus ride to Aggtelek (where there really isn't much of anything), and then choose a one-, three-, or four-hour tour. We took the one hour tour because of the time issues. Although it was 30 degrees outside, the temperature in the caves is a consistent 10 degrees, which was actually quite a nice change. I had to pull my hoodie out of my bag for the first time in quite a while.
The tour was in Hungarian, so I can't say I learned a whole lot, and when everyone else oohed, aahed, or laughed, I felt quite lost. Hoever, the inseide of the cave was very cool. The rock formations, and different colours were beautiful, and in one part of the cave, the acoustics were so good that concerts were held there on occasion. I never would have expected that! I would definitely suggest the Baradla cave tour.
The landscape in Hungary is unbelievably beautiful. It reminds me quite a bit of Canada's Okanagan. Everything in the country was gorgeous, and I definitely want to go back! I only have two real complaints: some people (in stores and such) seem a little angry, and there doesn't seem to be peanut butter anywhere in the country. For the most part, however, I am so, so glad that I got to experience Hungary.
Now I'm in Berlin. After three countries, four trains, and fifteen hours...beginning at 4:40 this morning, I have finally made it. Don't ask me how I survived it...I really couldn't tell you!
Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com
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