S-21 and The Killing Fields: A Hypnotic Hellraiser

Before I begin writing, I would like to warn you that this blog contains extremely disturbing material. However, I don't believe that shying away from a harsh reality is any way to understand the world, either past or present. For that reason, I would like to ask you to please read. Education is the first step towards putting an end to any present or future situations comparable to the Cambodian genocide. Thank you!

It's impossible to visit Phnom Penh in Cambodia without making a stop at the Choeng Ek Killing Fields, and Tuol Sleng, the genocide museum. Since I booked my flight, this was never a question for me. I knew that it would be an emotional day, and I was going to see things - things that a culture had done to its own people - that were incomprehensible. But it felt like something I needed to do.

There are tours throughout the prison and the Killing Fields. Although it would have been nice to have a guide providing facts, I liked being able to explore at my own pace. I met up with a moto driver at my guesthouse who provided transportation, but I felt that I would rather witness this particular sight independently.

In 1975, the Khmer Rouge made it their goal to round up intellectuals, doctors, foreigners, peasants, workers, women and children - basically anyone they suspected of associating with the CIA or KGB - and sentencing them to prison. The children were arrested and murdered so that they would not seek revenge as they grew. The people were tortured in the most inhumane, gut-wrenching ways imaginable: beaten with bamboo sticks, strapped to tables and given electric shocks, and having finger- and toenails removed (just to name a few). The officers made rules that people were not allowed to cry, moan, or protest, even as they watched their own families being murdered. If these rules were broken, people would receive slashes or electric shocks. In short, the Khmer Rouge created a mountain of bones, and an ocean of blood.

Upon entering the Tuol Sleng museum (a former high school in Phnom Penh), it's hard to imagine that such atrocities had occurred right there. At first glance, it looks like an ordinary building - save for the rusted barbed wire at the top of the outside walls and outside the balconies of the school buildings. This prevented desperate prisoners from committing suicide.

I was afraid to go in at first. I paid my $2 entrance fee, and immediately felt doubtful. Based on what I had read in textbooks, seen on TV, and heard from other travellers, what waited inside the museum was almost impossible to believe.

After a few deep breaths, I was ready. Immediately after walking into the museum grounds, I saw the gallows, where people were tortured by being hung by their feet until they fell unconscious, only to be awakened by being plunged headfirst into water filled with fertilizer.

I then walked into Building A. The classrooms had been converted into prison cells, which contained one or more tiny, rusted beds. On the wall of each cell was a single black-and-white photograph of a prisoner - a former inmate of that room - shackled to the bed, unconscious, defeated and bleeding. Most of the rooms contained heavy, iron shackles, which had been attached to each prisoner's feet.

One of the most amazing things I noticed about the prison was the way you could see and hear the outside world from the barred rooms. Palm trees blew lazily, and the sounds of traffic and people carried through the air. This would have been the same during the days of the Khmer Regime. The few citizens who remained free would have lived their lives - literally - all around the prison.

The next building housed wooden and concrete cells. The concrete cells on the first floor were so tiny that I could stand up, but barely move about. I could not fully extend my arms. There were iron loops in the floor where prisoners would be shackled to the floor, as if being shoved into a cramped, dark, stuffy space wasn't debilitating enough. The wooden cells on the upper floors were similar. Hundreds of prisoners spent their final days here. In many of the cells there were stains on the floor that I believed - though I could be wrong - were blood.

The next buildings displayed information about the rise of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. All over the walls are hundreds of the infamous photographs of each victim, taken as they were brought to S-21. It's indescribable to look into the faces of men, women and children who must have known they were going to die. The looks of terror and hopelessness in their eyes grab you, and won't let go.

In these buildings, there is a pile of clothing retrieved from the prisoners...much like Auschwitz and other European concentration camps. S-21 is exactly that: the lesser-known answer to the Holocaust of the 1940s. There are also photographs of victims before and after torture. On the walls are posters with testimonials from some of the few survivors, as well as background information on those responsible. Keep in mind that the genocide occurred in 1975 - 1979. That's only 35 years ago. A number of these people are still alive. For example, Duch (the head officer at S-21) was sentenced to 35 years in prison only last year.

There are paintings on the walls of prisoners being tortured. One of the most disturbing is the portrait of a woman crying as her small baby is ripped from her. The looks of anguish in the paintings are incredibly disturbing and realistic. When S-21 was liberated in 1979, there were only seven survivors, one of them being the artist of the paintings. He was kept alive to paint pictures of Pol Pot.

At the end of the museum visit, there is a display of skulls, arranged by age and sex. It's amazing to see how each and every one of them has a crack or hole, from gunshots, or being beaten to death.

After the museum, it is essential to see the Killing Fields of Choeng Ek, 15 kilometers outside of Phnom Penh. The first thing I noticed when I arrived was the laughter of children at a school nearby. As you walk through the gate (pay $2), the first thing you see is a beautiful white stupa (Buddhist tower), with seventeen tiers. The first level (the very bottom) has a pile of clothing. Tiers two through nine or ten all contain human skulls, once again arranged by age, sex and cause of death. Tiers eleven to seventeen contain various bones. This monument was built in 1988 to celebrate and commemorate the millions who were killed in Cambodia during this dark time.

After the Cambodian people were liberated in 1979, almost 9000 people were exhumed from mass graves at Choeng Ek (more people all over the country). The largest one contained over 400 bodies. Another one contained 100 headless corpses. As you walk through the Killing Fields, look down at your feet. Chances are, you're stepping over bones and pieces of clothing. There are huge holes in the ground all over, which are remains of the other mass graves that were dug up. A little ways away is a mass grave, which contained hundreds of corpses of women and children, all naked. Beside this is one of the most disturbing and famous parts of the genocide: the tree where soldiers would hit babies' heads against, before tossing them into the mass graves. The tree was used to preserve "precious" ammunition.

When the Killing Fields were in use, prisoners were brought to Choeng Ek at around 6:30pm as it was getting dark. They were detained in a dark, crowded space for hours, and then brought to the Killing Fields, where they were executed. As prisoners arrived, they could not see what was happening, but could hear, in the distance, people being killed. To prevent this, the Khmer Rouge created the "magic tree". This is a tree where they would hang a loudspeaker, which made noise to cover up the moans and screams of the people.

Walking through the Killing Fields feels like walking through the set of some sick, perverse film director. It's hard to imagine that this is real, that people have the ability to do this to each other.

Many thoughts rushed through my head and I visited the sites of such sadness, but one thought overpowered all the others: "Why?" There is no explanation in the world that could make me understand how anyone could make sense of the breaking of body and spirit of a fellow human.

Back home, learning about Cambodia's history is not in the textbooks. We learn the basics: where Cambodia is, and that there was a genocide in the 1970s. But that's it. I wish that I had learned more about this when I was in school. Education is the first step to learning from history - in this case, a history which every Cambodian over 35 lived through. Everyone should experience Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields at one point. It's the first drop in the bucket towards helping us prevent another Khmer Rouge.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Cambodia at Last!

Cambodia is where it all really started for me. In my youth (well, three years ago), I was a on a road trip with my dad, who was driving me to the west coast to start university. En route, we happened upon a travel program featuring Cambodia, and from then on I don't think I ever looked back. I was going. Period. End of discussion.

I can't explain what exactly appealed so much to me, but if I had to put it into words, it would be the uninhibited, non-touristy look that it had. The people seemed genuine, and describing the landscape as "breathtaking" would be a lame understatement. I like a good dose of culture shock, and it appeared that Cambodia, with its legendary temples, stormy past and gorgeous weather would be quite the place to get my fill.

I started my journey two days ago when I took a longtail boat from Railay Beach, and from there I was loaded onto a minibus (an amped-up minivan) and hurled off to Suratthani, where I could connect to a regular bus to Bangkok. As I have stated before, the 15-hour overnight bus journey between Krabi and Bangkok is not my favorite. Between snoring passengers, hard seats, and not being able to move, it was an uncomfortable night.
In Krabi, I took a massive chance and bought a bus ticket to Siem Reap in Cambodi from Bangkok. Although I had heard that this was a "scam bus"(paying a cheap price, but being put on a sketchy bus, dropped off at unexpected places, slow journeys, crossing at the wrong borders, etc), I had spoken to people who had travelled from Bangkok to Siem Reap without any problems. My reasoning for deciding to take this route was that as a woman travelling alone, I would rather be on a bus that goes directly through as opposed to taking my chances with taxis or tuk-tuks at the border. Either I got really lucky or the ways of travel are changing, because Ipaid a very reasonable price, and apart from the bus in Bangkok being an hour late (to be expected of any bus in Thailand), the trip went smoothly. I met a man on the bus who lived in Sihanoukville, Cambodia. It was reassuring to have him there, because if the bus really was a huge scam, a local should know better.

The border crossing into Cambodia was stressful, and definitely not something I would like to do more than once. I had to fill out forms for my visa, and at one point, one of the men who worked for the bus company took my passport, smiled and walked away! I would have easily paid any sum of money at that point to have my passport back in my hand. We walked through the little shanty-town on the Thai side of the border, where children and hawkers swarm you from every direction, and if that's not enough to put you on edge, you have to stand and listen to the guide explain all of the terrible things that can happen to your money in Cambodia, how we have to stay together, because if we split up, we may never see our group member again, and other reassuring things like that. Trust me, I was starting to feel like Cambodia was a really, really bad idea. Things got slightly better when I paid my $20 visa fee and my passport was handed back to me. We were then herded like cattle through a tiny, stifling building, where we had to line up. Half an hour and a lot of sweat later, I handed my passport to the officer who barely even looked at my passport before stamping it and waving me away.

My friends, welcome to Cambodia!

The Cambodian side of the border is a completely different story. Instead of a shabby, yet somewhat laid-back town, Poipet (the border town) is basically Cambodia's answer to a scary, dirty Las Vegas. There are run-down casinos, people trying to sell you things that you don't need (surprise), and men sitting by the side of the road leering. I met two other Canadian travellers while waiting to cross the border, and I'm very glad that we stuck together while walking through Poipet's streets. As soon as I entered the town, I wanted to get out of there - fast - and take a shower. Except for the necessary border crossing, I'd say give this one a miss.

From the bus station in Poipet, I caught a shared taxi with Jenny and Scott (my fellow Canadian travellers) to Siem Reap. Although it was a two-hour ride, I could look forward to arriving into town at 5:00pm instead of 8:00. Since I hadn't booked a guesthouse yet, I figured I'd like more time to scout out a place.

As you drive from Thailand to Cambodia, the difference between the two countries could not be more in-your-face obvious. For starters, they tend to drive a a little slower in Cambodia...but make up for that little inconvenience by passing on the wrong side of the road, usually when big trucks are coming at you. The landscape is more jungle-y, and I can definitely see why people have stated that Cambodia is twenty years behind Thailand. People ride bicycles or motos along the highway, dogs run free, and the strange beauty of people's run-down homes and land keeps you mesmerized the whole way.

When I finally - finally - arrived in Siem Reap, I met up with a tuk-tuk driver. Instead ofthe usual bargaining and whining that I was used to in Bangkok, he suggested a guesthouse, and took me right there! I decided not to stay there, because I would have had to pay $8 for a single room. The driver then suggested the Garden Village guesthouse (which is also highly reccomended by Lonely Planet). He drove me there, and I scored a dorm room for - get this - $1 a night! Although it's literally just a mattress outside on a bamboo platform, the place is clean, I've met some fun people, and the location is prime - right by the night bazaar and pub street. Yes Mom, there is a mosquito net...for free!

Although Siem Reap is a touristy city, it doesn't feel as hectic as Bangkok did. Cambodia has maintained its authenticity, and I've met some of the most genuine, friendly locals.

This morning, I woke up at 4:30am, and met up with a moto driver, who took me to the Angkor temples. I decided to do the one-day tour, because I have limited time, and I've talked to other backpackers who said that they felt like they really saw a lot in just a day. Why did I get up so early? I wanted to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat, and do some exploring before the tour buses arrived.

Sitting by the pond in front of the eighth wonder of the world in the dark was one of the most surreal amazing experiences of my life. Myself and maybe a hundred other people walked into the temple grounds in complete darkness (watch your step - just a hint) and although you can see the silhouette of the pagodas, the temple is still a mystery.

There wasn't a brilliant sunrise this morning, but I almost can't put into words how incredible it is to be sitting in the dark, and gradually, the Angkor Wat temple is illuminated in front of you. I'm glad that this was the first temple I saw, because as I walked around inside, admiring the detailed stone carvings, and marvelling at the size of the place, I wasn't constantly running into people.

As the day went on, the temples got busier and the day got hotter. To be honest, by the end of the tour, I was feeling a little temple-d out, and when you're trying to take a picture and other tourists are shoving you around, that usually means time to go. The highlights for me were the jungle temple (the Tomb Raider temple), the elephant temple, Angkor Thom, and - of course - Angkor Wat. It's not necessary for me to say, but if you're in Cambodia and miss Angkor Wat...for shame!

In the next few days, I'm planning to head to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, and brave the Killing Fields. After that, I think I'll need some down time in Sihanoukville. For now, however, a nap! The 4:30am start isn't really my thing.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The Last of Bangkok and the Long-Awaited Railay Beach!

As I write this, I'm in a tarp-covered, painfully slow Internet cafe in Railay Beach, Krabi province, Thailand. It's raining like crazy, and I feel like I might need to build an ark soon. But that aside, let me just say that Railay is one of the most amazing places I've ever seen...and definitely one of the best travel choices I've made in my life. But more on that later.

Day two in Bangkok wasn't as stressful as the first. For one thing, I'd gotten more sleep, and for another, I had gotten used to the vendors, tuk-tuk drivers, and general chaos of the city. One could boldly say that I've become more confident in travelling alone.

Day two was also possibly hotter than day one, something I couldn't quite get my (increadibly sweaty) head around. That night a nice breeze began to blow at sundown, making it bearable to walk the streets at night. There are so many people around at night, that unless you stick to dark, scary alleyways by yourself, chances are, you'll be fine.

I braved walking farther on the second day, and discovered some interesting markets. You're packed shoulder-to-shoulder the whole way through, but that definitely adds to the experience. You see all sorts of people - my personal favorite being the eighty-something woman with the Playboy purse. Some people sell really cool things like paper lanterns, jewelry, musical instruments, and the infamous Thai fisherman pants. And some people sell really weird things like dismembered fish bodies and "pawned" iPods (probably stolen from unsuspecting tourists). And one guy will take your picture and make you up a press access card, drivers license or even university degree - for just 150 baht! What do you think, Mom?

The key to haggling in Southeast Asia is pretty much the same as anywhere else...find a price that makes everyone happy, and you can usually walk away with armfuls of souvenirs without spending an arm and a leg.

I now understand why Thailand is nicknamed "The Land of Smiles". Everyone is so friendly, and many people have stopped to welcome me to Thailand, and I received a few wai's in Thailand (a wai is a prayerlike palms-together gesture). One lady even stopped me in the street to comment on how white I was (I'm working on it).

After a slightly masochistic night bus - 15 hours from Bangkok to Krabi, never mind that the bus was two hours late because of a protest - I took longtail boat to Railay! Railay beach was one of the destinations on my trip that I was looking forward to the most before I got here. Just look up a picture and you'll understand. Although unfortunately, the picture won't do it justice. The limestone cliffs rise above white sand and jade water. I was speechless when I got into the boat, and could only snap pictures from every angle available. Although there are a lot of people here, I don't get that overrun, touristy feeling.

The first day, myself and Connie, a girl from Germany who I met on the bus, rented a kayak for three hours and paddled all around the island. You can paddle through caves right in the cliffs, or for the more adventurous, try to dodge the longtails coming right at you. We found a small beach not far from our guesthouse that was completely deserted. Photo ops, anyone? My back is now sunburned beyond belief, but I wouldn't have it any other way.

For those coming to Railay, I would suggest staying on the East side of the beach. That's where the more affordable guesthouses are. Although the beach is covered in mangroves and unsuitable for swimming, it's a quick walk to the West side, where the beach is always in action.

Today was the day I had been waiting for even before I booked my trip: rock climbing! At 8:45 this morning, I met up with the guides in the King Climbers' office (conveniently located inside my guesthouse, saving me an early-morning walk). From there, we walked to the first area, which was an amazing cliff jutting right out of the sea. Climbing outside is very different than indoors. My hands and knees are all scraped up now, and some of the hand and footholds were harder to find, and almost always painful to keep ahold of. However, the guides were patient and reassuring, and I had the time of my life. After a quick lunch (fried rice with vegetables - for free!) we headed to another area on the island which were apparently harder to climb. The views from the top of the routes are unbeatable! It makes all of the scraping, slipping and over-exertion of not-s0-strong arms worth it! Speaking of arms, mine are now extremely stiff, and even typing this simple blog feels like quite an effort. I now have mad respect for my brother, Sam, who does this kind of thing all the time. By the way, save your money and you can come out!

This all brings me to right now, where I'm sitting in an Internet cafe watching the rain and thinking about what I'm going to eat. This is the good life!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The First Day in Bangkok!

Hey-oh! I am currently sitting in a nice, air-conditioned Internet shop on Khaosan Road, the heart of backpacker-ville in Bangkok, Thailand! I only arrived yesterday after something like 16 hours on airplanes. I finally arrived at the Suvarnabhumi (say that six times fast) airport two nights ago at midnight, and then had to camp out on one of their hard-metal benches until 5:30 the next morning, when I would (supposedly) be able to catch the airport express shuttle, which conveniently stopped right outside my hostel. Needless to say, I didn't get any sleep, and then to top it all off, the bus didn't come until 7:30. By that time, I was starting to feel a little crazy.

When I was finally able to leave the airport, I was blown away by the sights we passed as we drove into the city. The contrast between old and new is stunning. There are little tiny wooden shacks situated within meters of modern, shiny skyscrapers. To be completely honest, the modern buildings don't do all that much for me, but I love seeing the little houses and the older apartments...they have a lot more character. The contrast between old and new, as well as the style of buildings and roadways - and the driving - reminds me a little bit of Quito, Ecuador. One thing I've noticed is that in all of the older apartment buildings is that on almost all of the balconies, there are shirts hanging out to dry. I absolutely love the sight of this...I'm not sure why exactly, but I think it's beautiful.

Upon arrival in Khaosan, I took some time to walk through the road and check out the market. It's a little bit overwhelming to constantly have pesky tuk-tuk drivers coming up to you and saying, "Hey pretty lady! You need ride?" I've found that if you smile, say a simple "No" and keep walking, they'll get the point and leave you alone. All in all, I've felt quite safe so far in Bangkok, despite the constant chaos.

Within hours of arriving, myself and another single traveller were given a deal by a taxi driver: we could pay 1, 500 baht (about $40, or $20 per person) to take a day trip out of Bangkok to Wat Asokaram, for three hours. I decided to go for it, since it was a place I probably wouldn't be able to see otherwise. It definitely offered a contrast from Bangkok. Instead of constant hustle and bustle, it was peaceful, with monks walking around, running water, and the cutest little dogs sleeping all over the place! There were amazing Buddhist temples and statues of Buddha everywhere...the likes of which I had only seen in pictures. I also noticed that all of the pictures in the temple featured people working, families and celebration instead of the constant doom and suffering painted in all of the churches in Europe. There was one gory picture of a man being eaten by an alligator in the temple...ah well.

Afterwards, we headed back to Bangkok. Since I hadn't eaten since that morning, I took a chance and bought a delicious pad Thai off the street for less than a dollar! I've been feeling fine all day. The key to buying from food stalls is to go where other people are going, as this indicates how safe the food is. After eating, a tuk-tuk driver offered me a three-hour tour for only 20 baht. This seemed a little suspicious to me, so I politely declined, and instead, headed to a travel agency just outside of the Khaosan area to book my trip to Krabi (gra-bee). Khaosan road is peppered with travel agencies, but all of the prices they offer are too good to be true...which they are. I ended up paying 1, 500 baht for a night bus from Bangkok to Krabi, leaving tomorrow. From there, I head to the amazing Railay Beach for some rock climbing. A shout out to my brother Sam...if it weren't for him, I wouldn't have even heard of Railay, and now it's one of the places I'm looking forward to the most on my whole trip!

So far, despite being a little stressful and always on the move, Bangkok is a friendly, safe city, with endless things to do and see. The only real complaint I have is the bed at my hostel: it is as hard as a rock...literally. However, delicious food in the restaurant downstairs and friendly staff definitely make up for it. Last night, I went to bed at 7:00pm, intending to lay down for a minute, and found myself waking up 13 hours later. Now I feel a little less jet-lagged and ready to do some more exploring. I leave at 5:00pm tomorrow, and arrive in Railay by noon or 1:00.

I'll start uploading pictures as soon as a) I take a few more and b) I can find a USB plug.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com