Cambodia at Last!

Cambodia is where it all really started for me. In my youth (well, three years ago), I was a on a road trip with my dad, who was driving me to the west coast to start university. En route, we happened upon a travel program featuring Cambodia, and from then on I don't think I ever looked back. I was going. Period. End of discussion.

I can't explain what exactly appealed so much to me, but if I had to put it into words, it would be the uninhibited, non-touristy look that it had. The people seemed genuine, and describing the landscape as "breathtaking" would be a lame understatement. I like a good dose of culture shock, and it appeared that Cambodia, with its legendary temples, stormy past and gorgeous weather would be quite the place to get my fill.

I started my journey two days ago when I took a longtail boat from Railay Beach, and from there I was loaded onto a minibus (an amped-up minivan) and hurled off to Suratthani, where I could connect to a regular bus to Bangkok. As I have stated before, the 15-hour overnight bus journey between Krabi and Bangkok is not my favorite. Between snoring passengers, hard seats, and not being able to move, it was an uncomfortable night.
In Krabi, I took a massive chance and bought a bus ticket to Siem Reap in Cambodi from Bangkok. Although I had heard that this was a "scam bus"(paying a cheap price, but being put on a sketchy bus, dropped off at unexpected places, slow journeys, crossing at the wrong borders, etc), I had spoken to people who had travelled from Bangkok to Siem Reap without any problems. My reasoning for deciding to take this route was that as a woman travelling alone, I would rather be on a bus that goes directly through as opposed to taking my chances with taxis or tuk-tuks at the border. Either I got really lucky or the ways of travel are changing, because Ipaid a very reasonable price, and apart from the bus in Bangkok being an hour late (to be expected of any bus in Thailand), the trip went smoothly. I met a man on the bus who lived in Sihanoukville, Cambodia. It was reassuring to have him there, because if the bus really was a huge scam, a local should know better.

The border crossing into Cambodia was stressful, and definitely not something I would like to do more than once. I had to fill out forms for my visa, and at one point, one of the men who worked for the bus company took my passport, smiled and walked away! I would have easily paid any sum of money at that point to have my passport back in my hand. We walked through the little shanty-town on the Thai side of the border, where children and hawkers swarm you from every direction, and if that's not enough to put you on edge, you have to stand and listen to the guide explain all of the terrible things that can happen to your money in Cambodia, how we have to stay together, because if we split up, we may never see our group member again, and other reassuring things like that. Trust me, I was starting to feel like Cambodia was a really, really bad idea. Things got slightly better when I paid my $20 visa fee and my passport was handed back to me. We were then herded like cattle through a tiny, stifling building, where we had to line up. Half an hour and a lot of sweat later, I handed my passport to the officer who barely even looked at my passport before stamping it and waving me away.

My friends, welcome to Cambodia!

The Cambodian side of the border is a completely different story. Instead of a shabby, yet somewhat laid-back town, Poipet (the border town) is basically Cambodia's answer to a scary, dirty Las Vegas. There are run-down casinos, people trying to sell you things that you don't need (surprise), and men sitting by the side of the road leering. I met two other Canadian travellers while waiting to cross the border, and I'm very glad that we stuck together while walking through Poipet's streets. As soon as I entered the town, I wanted to get out of there - fast - and take a shower. Except for the necessary border crossing, I'd say give this one a miss.

From the bus station in Poipet, I caught a shared taxi with Jenny and Scott (my fellow Canadian travellers) to Siem Reap. Although it was a two-hour ride, I could look forward to arriving into town at 5:00pm instead of 8:00. Since I hadn't booked a guesthouse yet, I figured I'd like more time to scout out a place.

As you drive from Thailand to Cambodia, the difference between the two countries could not be more in-your-face obvious. For starters, they tend to drive a a little slower in Cambodia...but make up for that little inconvenience by passing on the wrong side of the road, usually when big trucks are coming at you. The landscape is more jungle-y, and I can definitely see why people have stated that Cambodia is twenty years behind Thailand. People ride bicycles or motos along the highway, dogs run free, and the strange beauty of people's run-down homes and land keeps you mesmerized the whole way.

When I finally - finally - arrived in Siem Reap, I met up with a tuk-tuk driver. Instead ofthe usual bargaining and whining that I was used to in Bangkok, he suggested a guesthouse, and took me right there! I decided not to stay there, because I would have had to pay $8 for a single room. The driver then suggested the Garden Village guesthouse (which is also highly reccomended by Lonely Planet). He drove me there, and I scored a dorm room for - get this - $1 a night! Although it's literally just a mattress outside on a bamboo platform, the place is clean, I've met some fun people, and the location is prime - right by the night bazaar and pub street. Yes Mom, there is a mosquito net...for free!

Although Siem Reap is a touristy city, it doesn't feel as hectic as Bangkok did. Cambodia has maintained its authenticity, and I've met some of the most genuine, friendly locals.

This morning, I woke up at 4:30am, and met up with a moto driver, who took me to the Angkor temples. I decided to do the one-day tour, because I have limited time, and I've talked to other backpackers who said that they felt like they really saw a lot in just a day. Why did I get up so early? I wanted to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat, and do some exploring before the tour buses arrived.

Sitting by the pond in front of the eighth wonder of the world in the dark was one of the most surreal amazing experiences of my life. Myself and maybe a hundred other people walked into the temple grounds in complete darkness (watch your step - just a hint) and although you can see the silhouette of the pagodas, the temple is still a mystery.

There wasn't a brilliant sunrise this morning, but I almost can't put into words how incredible it is to be sitting in the dark, and gradually, the Angkor Wat temple is illuminated in front of you. I'm glad that this was the first temple I saw, because as I walked around inside, admiring the detailed stone carvings, and marvelling at the size of the place, I wasn't constantly running into people.

As the day went on, the temples got busier and the day got hotter. To be honest, by the end of the tour, I was feeling a little temple-d out, and when you're trying to take a picture and other tourists are shoving you around, that usually means time to go. The highlights for me were the jungle temple (the Tomb Raider temple), the elephant temple, Angkor Thom, and - of course - Angkor Wat. It's not necessary for me to say, but if you're in Cambodia and miss Angkor Wat...for shame!

In the next few days, I'm planning to head to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, and brave the Killing Fields. After that, I think I'll need some down time in Sihanoukville. For now, however, a nap! The 4:30am start isn't really my thing.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com