Monday, July 18, 2011

And So It Begins...



I've only been in South Africa for three days (not counting the eight-hour, hair-pulling layover in Jo'burg), but it feels like it's been forever. This isn't a bad thing. After flying an agonizing eight hours to Amsterdam, another twelve hours to Johannesburg, and then waiting for eight hours in the OR Tambo Airport, I was starting to feel like I would never get here.

Upon arriving in Jo'burg, there is loud, traditional African music playing, which got me all pumped up (or delerious after the flight...take your pick). It felt like a big, exciting "WELCOME TO AFRICA!" Unfortunately, this was short lived, as I realized very quickly that I was stuck in the airport, the lights were being dimmed, the shops were closed, and there are only hard, metal benches, so try as I might, I could not get to sleep.

Finally -FINALLY - 5:00am came, and I was able to board my flight to Cape Town. Let me just add that this two hour flight felt like a joke next to the last couple of flights I've been on. The sun was a gigantic, bright red ball in the sky, and it was coming up just as we were taking off. I think this was the moment when it hit me: I was in Africa!!

The sky was clear with barely a cloud in sight as we landed in Cape Town, and right out my window, I could see Table Mountain, and right next to it, the ocean. Before leaving, I had googled dozens - nay, hundreds - of pictures of this exact sight, but I can't even describe what it was like to see it appearing before my eyes.

When I got off the plane, I had a minor panic: the Backpacker Bus, a super handy service, where travellers are picked up at the airport and dropped safely at their hostel, did not appear to have arrived. I wandered around, looking at all the people holding signs, and could not find my name. For what was probably realistically two minutes, I paced back and forth, wracking my brain for who I could call and coming up with nothing, when I turned around, almost knocking over a man with my backpack. And yes, his sign said - in big bold letters nonetheless - my name. I guess I should learn to read properly before taking off on another big trip.

After arriving at Penthouse on Long, a hostel on Long Street, Cape Town's main backpacker district, I decide to take a shower, as I had been doing nothing but plane-hopping for the last three days. I unpacked, only to find that I had managed to buy two shampoos and no conditioner. Well, I now had a mission! I asked the front desk staff where the best place to find said hair product was. Let me just say that not only is Penthouse on Long a funky place to stay in a very populated (and therefore safe) area of Cape Town, but the front staff are friendly, and know everything. More on them later.

After buying my conditioner, and scouting out a place to eat dinner (The Long Street Cafe - best margherita pizza EVER), I retreated to the hostel, and asked the man at the front desk what the best way to get to the bus station was. After all, I was leaving at 6:00am to head to Knysna, the town closest to Farm 119, where I'm WWOOFing for three weeks. Although the bus station wasn't far, I had my doubts about walking that early in the morning. The man at the desk told me that taking a taxi would be the fastest way, and he promised that he would call the cab for me, and have the driver come up to get me so I would know which cab to get into. He then told me all of the things to do in Cape Town, and was very excited to hear that I was returning in a few weeks. I will definitely be back!

I then went to bed. At 6:30pm. I hate jet lag.

The next morning, bright and early, I showed up at the front desk, and the man called my cab (I should really get names, eh?). Within five minutes, my ride was there, and I was taken to the bus station. The driver made sure that I got inside alright, and apart from the pesky porter who really, really wanted to carry my bag (and subsequently, a tip), I had made it. The bus was already there, so all I had to do was load my bag, and take a seat.

I would definitely recommend the Intercape bus service for anyone travelling in South Africa. They were safe and efficient. Although after the buses in Southeast Asia, that could be said about pretty much any bus line. The prayer at the beginning of the trip, and the Christian programming for the entire eight-hour duration of my bus trip was a little surprising for this Jewish travel writer, but like I said before, as long as I'm safe, I can put up with a little Gospel. I always have my iPod...

I'm now sitting comfortably in the office of GORGEOUS Farm 119, in Bibby's Hoek, in the Rheenendal district, just outside of Knysna. The air is clear, and there are 360 degrees of million dollar views. Kevin and Tanya, as well as Mila and Luke, their children, have made me feel more than welcome right off the bat. So far I have been fed home-grown vegetarian food right out of my wildest dreams, met their two dogs (Mushroom and Fettucine), who guard my room whenever I go in, and have helped build a shed, and today, I painted it. I just love being able to work outside all day!

There was a bit of a communication breakdown when I first arrived, and my host family and I missed each other at the bus station. However, the man at the bus station walked me to a hostel in Knysna (just around the corner from the station), and made sure I got in safe. The staff at the hostel was friendly, and helped me get in contact with my host family. Everyone I met in Knysna went out of their way to make sure I was safe during my stay, and I am more than grateful. The people I've met so far in South Africa are some of the friendliest, most genuine people I've ever met - at home or while travelling!

Yesterday morning, Kevin came to get me first thing, and drove me to the farm. The views on the drive were breathtaking. I'm becoming one of those nerds who takes pictures out of windows. I wouldn't have it any other way!

Which brings me to today: my first day on a self-sufficient, off-the-grid farm. I could definitely get used to this! As for now, my painting is done, and I think I'm going to relax with 'On the Road' before dinner. Good travel book, no?

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

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