A Sweet Little Side Trip to Hungary: Eurotrip Part 7

As we were stategically planning out hostel bookings and travel destinations a few weeks ago, Shayla and I encountered a slight problem: we had a whole week where we didn't have anywhere in particular to be! There were two apparent options: either go back to Germany and try to find somewhere else to go, or go off the beaten path and see another country that we weren't planning on travelling to. The choice was evident...off we went to Hungary.

Since we didn't have tons of time, Shayla and I decided to mainly stick to Budapest, but we also spent two days in Eger, just two hours out of the capital.

Prior to my arrival, I had heard many good things about Budapest, so naturally, I was very excited to see it! It did not disappoint - to say the least! If I had to choose a favorite destination so far (for fear of torture via bamboo under my fingernails), Budapest would have to be it. There are endless things to do - from visiting the castle, parliament buildings, and synagogue (the largest operating synagogue in the world), to climbing Castle Hill to get some amazing photos of the city, four days was hardly enough time to see all of Budapest.

Budapest is a classic city with a very modern feel. Just walking around and seeing the buildings, town squares, and different people is a great way to spend the day.

There is a giant market building where you can buy all sorts of fruits, vegetables, meats, and Hungarian take-away food (delicious). The upstairs of the building is dedicated to selling souvinirs - this is the place to come to get your flags, magnets, stacking dolls and t-shirts. Did I mention how reasonably priced everything is? That was another appealing aspect of Hungary - it was very affordable. The market was the perfect place to buy some gifts for friends at home, as well as adding to my own ever-growing collection of European souvinirs.

The Buda Castle is a must-see. It is located on top of a hill overlooking the Danube River, and the views of the city and the Chain Bridge are stunning. We happened to go on a beautiful day - sunny, not a cloud in the sky. Unfortunately, it was 32 degrees, so instead of actually going into the castle, we relaxed in the courtyard. Still, it was a nice walk, and a very worthwhile hangout spot.

For anyone up for a good walk, I would also suggest climbing Castle Hill. If you are visiting in the summer, I would definitely recommend either picking a cooler day to do this, or going in the evening, so as to avoid overheating. From the top of the hill, you can see the entire city from every angle. At night, there are also tons of photo opportunities, including the castle, and the bridges over the Danube. Everything is lit up. It is absolutely gorgeous.

The synagogue is also definitely worth a visit. The you show your student card, you pay 750 HUF, which grants you admission to the synagogue itself, the Jewish museum, and the courtyard.

Although I've been in a fair few synagogues in my life, I have never seen such a gorgeous one! The Budapest synagogue - second largest in the world, and the largest operating one - is a stunning structure, with high windows, and designs among the bricks decorating the outside. On the inside you see chandeliers, and the walls are decorated with ornate mosaic stars-of-David. The Bimah and Ark at the front are elegant, with gold decorations. If you go into the synagogue, remember to cover your shoulders! Guys, you need to cover your heads as well.

The Jewish museum is quite tiny. You climb up several flights of stairs, and enter the museum, which consists of two rooms. One has traditional Jewish items on display, such as Torah scrolls, yarmulkes, menorahs, and tallit (prayer shawls). In the other room, Budapest's Jewish history is outlined, including the early histtory, and the the more recent persecution of the people during the Second World War. We didn't spend too long in the museum, but it was very interesting to see. I was glad to see a display of some aspects of Jewish life that were unrelated to the Holocaust.

The synagogue's peaceful courtyard consists of memorials to many Hungarian Jews who perished during the war. In the centre of the courtyard is the huge silver Tree of Life. On each leaf, the name of a victim of the Holocaust is inscribed. I thought this was a beautiful metaphor.

Another must-see while in Budapest is the House of Terror. Remember, during both WWII and the Cold War, Budapest was a central location, so much political action took place here. The House of Terror, situated in the actual headquarters of both the Nazi and Soviet officers in their respective times of power, is a museum which demonstrates the persecution and hardship forced upon Hungarian citizens during these two brutal regimes.

As you walk through the museum, you read accounts of the goings-on in Budapest during the Second World War and the Cold War. Each room is dedicated to a different aspect of these times: political leadership, the Resistance, labour camps (gulags), uniforms, party propaganda, and so on. Many of the rooms show video interviews from people who lived through these times. One room also shows footage from trials which took place during the Cold War.

The basement of the House of Terror is definitely the most disturbing part of the museum. That is where the prison cells are; the torture of prisoners also took place here. Most of the cells are very tight, confined spaces, and believe it or not, this was the kind of cell you would hope to be kept in. There were other tiny cells where prisoners would be forced to stand in water. Other cells were so low that the inmates could not stand up, others were so narrow that one could stand, but not move nor turn around. Prisoners were only fed once a day - at most - and in some cells, the officers could cut off the airflow. In a room off to the side of the cells was the gallows. Apparently no excecutions took place in this particular building, "only" fatal beatings and torture. It was hard to believe that this was happening in a building right in the middle of one of Budapest's main streets. Here was another example of man's inhumanity to man that astounded me. It really made me thing about the state of the world, and how anyone anywhere could believe that the breaking the body and spirit of another human being was acceptable.

Although it is definitely not a joyful palce, the House of Terror is very interesting and informative. I learned quite a few things about WWII and the Cold War that I had not known prior to visiting. Go!

Other things in Budapest that are strongly recommended (that we did not get to do because of our time crunch) are the mineral baths, which are basically a collection of hot springs. Word is that they are extremely relaxing. Also, Memento Park, which is a collection of confiscated Communist statues and propaganda, would have been worth a visit. Apparently they show a documentary about spying, and gathering secret information. Who knows, that could come in handy!

I can honestly say that I loved Budapest! It's beautiful, chock-full of things to do, affordable, and brimming with unbelievable history.

Eger (egg-AIR), a smaller town just two hours away from Budapest, is also worth a visit, especially if you're big into wine. We didn't do any of the wine tasting, but I've heard that Eger's Valley of Beautiful Women is the place to be in Hungary if wine's your thing.

Before travelling to Eger, I had heard that it was a bit of a dive, and not really worth going. If you're a party animal, then definitely give it a miss. But if you're just looking for some down time, I would suggest spending a day or two. There aren't tourist attractions galore in the town, but there is - surprise - a castle (with staff in full medieval costumes), several cathedrals, and a pretty little town square. The town is very traditional, and the views are unbeatable. Everything is decently priced, and it is not too touristy, which is a nice change from the big cities.

A great (and very reasonably priced) daytrip from Eger is to Aggtelek, where you can take a tour through the ancient Baradla caves. You take a three-hour bus ride to Aggtelek (where there really isn't much of anything), and then choose a one-, three-, or four-hour tour. We took the one hour tour because of the time issues. Although it was 30 degrees outside, the temperature in the caves is a consistent 10 degrees, which was actually quite a nice change. I had to pull my hoodie out of my bag for the first time in quite a while.

The tour was in Hungarian, so I can't say I learned a whole lot, and when everyone else oohed, aahed, or laughed, I felt quite lost. Hoever, the inseide of the cave was very cool. The rock formations, and different colours were beautiful, and in one part of the cave, the acoustics were so good that concerts were held there on occasion. I never would have expected that! I would definitely suggest the Baradla cave tour.

The landscape in Hungary is unbelievably beautiful. It reminds me quite a bit of Canada's Okanagan. Everything in the country was gorgeous, and I definitely want to go back! I only have two real complaints: some people (in stores and such) seem a little angry, and there doesn't seem to be peanut butter anywhere in the country. For the most part, however, I am so, so glad that I got to experience Hungary.

Now I'm in Berlin. After three countries, four trains, and fifteen hours...beginning at 4:40 this morning, I have finally made it. Don't ask me how I survived it...I really couldn't tell you!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Prague, Cesky Krumlov and Olomouc - Czech it Out!: Eurotrip Part 6 (continued)

As I write this, I am in the amazing city of Budapest. Although I've only been here for a couple of hours, I'm already loving it! There's so much history, there are tons of modern-day activities...and it's all in my price range! What more could a girl ask for really? Did I mention that The Loft Hostel (home for the next two nights), is one of the most welcoming, upbeat places I've stayed so far?

Shayla and I spent the zlast two nights in Olomouc (O-lo-moutz) in the Czech Republic. It's a cute little university town in Moravia. Olomouc is a must-see destination for travellers, especially those who are desperately seeking some chill time. It has a reputation of being like Prague, but without the swarms of tourists. Some people even went so far as to tell me that it was better than Prague. Well, you all know how I feel about Prague. This was something I had to see for myself.

Upon arriving in Prague, I could see that "Prague without the tourists" pretty much sums up Olomouc. The cobblestone streets, Baroque architecture, and Eastern influence echo those of Prague, but the lack of tourists - and potential pickpockets - is very refreshing.

The Poet's Corner Hostel, where we stayed, felt more like staying in someone's home than in a hostel. It's quiet and extremely welcoming. The people who run the hostel are very informative - we were given a whole list of things to do during our stay. They also let us know about a hockey game going on that night, and a Euro Leage football game the next night! I wouldn't have had the slightest clue about either had they not told me. I would definitely recommend the Poet's Corner.

The hockey game - Olomouc versus a Slovakian team - was mad fun! Although the seats were nowhere near as packed as you would see at a Canadian game, the fans were all riled, wearing jerseys and scarves, and the energy was contagious! A big group in the stands had a drum, and they were belting out some intense Czech cheers. I wish I could have joined in. Alas, Slovakia won the game (5 - 3), but the experience was definitely worth it! I couldn't help noticing that European hockey is a little different than Canadian - the main thing being less fighting. Don't get me wrong, it was a pretty physical game, but I didn't expect to see the gloves drop. Oh, did I mention I only paid 20 Kc? That's $1.30 Canadian.

The football (soccer for you North Americans), was an intense match between Olomouc and Aberdeen. We paid 150 Kc ($10.00 Canadian) for front row seats! The energy was overwhelming, and the fans were absolutely insane. I thought the hockey game was loud! The wave went around the stadium at least fifty times, and Scottish and Czech cheers echoed throughout the whole area. Now I see why Europeans take their football so seriously! Olomouc won...it was so much fun to be there when the home team took the glory. It was on my bucket list to see a European football match, and now I can safely say I've done it! It really was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Olomouc's Old Town is also worth a visit. In the main town square is an astronomical clock, which "performs" at noon. The bells ring, and the little wooden people at the top spin around in circles. It's worth a viewing if you happen to be in the area, but honestly, I wouldn't go out of my way to see it. Do not, by any means, expect a Disneyland "It's a Small World"-esque show!

Cafe 87, just around the corner from the hostel, is a great place to get all sorts of coffees, baked goods, and breakfast items. (I strongly suggest the cheese and tomato toast, and the chocolate pie). Everything is affordable, and there is internet for only 1 Kc a minute.

Olomouc is still somewhat of a hidden gem of the Czech Republic, but I'm very glad I went! I would advise anyone in the area to stop by for a day or two!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Prague, Cesky Krumlov and Olomouc - Czech It Out!: Eurotrip Part 6

Here I am in the Czech Republic! So far, the countryside and the cities have been the most beautiful that I've seen - not that there's anything wrong with the rest of te European countries that I've travelled through, but I really have been blown away by the Czech Republic. It is definitely the most different country I've been to on this trip so far; the Eastern influence is evident, the prices are lower, and the people (in Prague at least) are, well, not as friendly.

Our journey started early on July 31 when we caught a train from Munich to Prague. We were all ready for a good sleep during the six-hour train ride, but alas, we were awakened by a rowdy bachelor party in the next compartment over. It was nine in the morning, and they were all completely plastered. It was almost impressive. We heard German drinking songs floating through the walls, accompanied by the occasional "Ja baby!"

Did I mention that the guest of honour was sporting a full-size, arseless pink bunny costume? As he turned around, we were given a full-on view of his tight, black man thong. His men-in-waiting wore matching shirts, which read "Hey bunnies, watch out for the wasted pink one! It's his last day of freedom!" They were also wearing lederhosen. They asked us if we could help them out, by cutting the tags out of our underwear (for reasons unknown). We politely declined, and carried on our train ride. Gotta love Germany.

Before arriving in Prague, I had been told many, many times that it was the most beautiful city I would ever see. Obviously, my expectations were pretty high. Well, let me tell you first hand that it is the most gorgeous city I have seen so far! Each building has a slightly different archetectural pattern and colour. They all compliment each other perfectly. The cobblestone streets lead to a cute little square in the Old Town, which is surrounded by restaurants, shops and churches. I must admit, I'm feeling a little churched out, but they were still stunning buildings.

We stayed at the Czech Inn (very witty). Although it's actually a hostel, it looks like a hotel. It's very clean, the staff are knowledgeable, and it's actually pretty decently priced for what it is.

The Prague Castle is a must. Although it is nowhere near as elegant on the inside as the Schloss Schonbrunn, it has a very cool surrounding courtyard to wander, and the terraces all offer million-dollar views. You can see the town, the hills and the river from different angles.

We also walked across the famous Charles Bridge (several times). It offers even more amazing photo opportunities.

Another must-see is the Jewish Quarter, part of which was walled off in the 11th century. In this part of town there are synagogues galore, a small market, and shops which sell Jewish memorabilia (like yarmulkes, mezuzahs and mogen Davids). I may be biased, but I thought it was pretty cool. Up till that point, I had hardly seen any evidence that Jewish people even existed in Europe. It was a neat contrast.

My friends may have gotten sick of me going on and on about how amazing I thought Prague was, but I couldn't help it! I was overwhelmed by its beauty!

Kutna Hora, a small town just over an hour out of Prague, is an excellent daytrip to take. Although there aren't zillions of tourist attractions, it's a cute little town, and it's interesting to see a more tradtional Czech town. The main reason we went, however, was to see the bone cathedral.

There are quite a few cathedrals in Kutna Hora, but as I already mentioned, I'm feeling the symptoms of ABC (Another Bloody Church) syndrome, so I decided to just stick to the bone cathedral, as it was highly recommended - and really, how often do you walk into a church decorated with human bones?

It's very cheap to enter the bone cathedral. It's pretty small, but by no means is it an in-and-out tourist destination. There are chandeliers, crests, wall decorations, and even huge piles of human bones (the extras?) Outside, there is a large cemetary. I learned that the people buried there were the wealthy citizens. However, during the plague, people were dropping like flies. There were more bodies than the town knew what to do with, and thus, the bones of Kutna Hora's Average Joes were used to adorn the inside of the church! It was easily one of the most bizarre things I've ever seen, but it was very interesting to learn the background information, and when you think about it, it was actually kind of resourceful...

Since Shayla and I were heading to Cesky Krumlov after Prague, and Steph and Julie were on to Berlin, we all decided to go out for dinner. Was it ever worth it! The main dishes were all amazing, the side dishes were mouth-watering, and the dessert was phenomenal! The Klub Architektu restaurant is located in a 15th century cellar with a very cool, relaxed vibe. There were plenty of veggie options, and it was actually reasonably priced - considering all the food we got. The hot chocolate was probably the best I've ever had! After eating bread, peanut butter, and canned food for weeks, it was one of the best dinner experiences I've had in a long, long time. I strongly suggest it!

Overall, Prague is definitely one of my favorite places so far. It's gorgeous, and it lacks that intimidating big-city feel.

Cesky Krumlov, a town south of Prague, is the perfect place to come for R&R. It has tiny, cobblestone streets (which can be terrifying when cars come out of nowhere and try to drive through the people). There are cute little shops, restaurants and hotels, and the river runs right smack in the middle of town. A pub crawl (rafting down the river and stopping at different bars) is offered for 250 KC, but because it's been cold and rainy for the last couple of days, we decided to give it a pass.

The Hostel 99 (where we're staying) is a quaint little place in the middle of town. It's clean, the staff is friendly, it's decently priced, and well equipped with internet, a kitchen and a DVD collection. Albeit some, er, eccentric roommates, it's been a good place.

Tomorrow we're on to Olomouc, and from there Budapest. I'm looking forward to seeing some of Eastern Europe that I wasn't expecting to!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com