What I Learned in South Africa

1. Seeing ostriches out the window on your first day in the country will cause you to squeal like a little girl. On a crowded bus.

2. Watching farm dogs chase baboons never gets old. It's always funny.

3. Jews CAN build sheds!
4. When you have thick, curly hair and don't have the opportunity to wash it every day, you will eventually turn around, catch a glimpse of yourself in the mirror, and your first thought will be "What is the mother from Coal Miner's Daughter doing here?"

5. Don't go hiking in the rain with a Malarone tablet in your pocket. It will dissolve into yellow mush and get all over everything.

6. There is no shame in having "The Lion Sleeps Tonight" on repeat on your iPod.

7. When you become accustomed to having your own guava tree in the front yard, you go through withdrawal when you go back to the city.
8. Sharks are incredibly badass.

9. It is impossible for me to ride a bicycle without huge gale-force winds and uphills working against me. I did a fair bit of cycling this trip, always with killer headwinds. This doesn't just apply to South Africa. This has been the case since my first-ever bike ride.

10. In Cape Town - Long Street in particular - beggars will come up to you, always starting their pitch with, "I'm not a bad guy!" These people are the absolute, soul-sucking worst. They'll trail you for half a block, moaning about how they don't want money - just some coins or a R10 bill. Hmmm. My personal favourite was a man saying he wanted me to buy milk for his baby. Now, before you judge me too harshly, let me explain: there was no baby in sight. No baby, no money.

11. Despite what the media tells you, sometimes you have to see a country for yourself before making assumptions. I have been completely safe, never felt threatened, and have been treated in a kind, sisterly way by locals.

12. South African accents are drool-worthy.
13. You eat more, you see more.

14. When you spot a jackal, quoting Family Guy's "JACKAL! A jackal! Is it a jackal? It's a jackal!" is entirely appropriate.

15. Cape Town drivers are not great. Jo'burg drivers are worse.

16. If you happen to be female, random men might stop you on the street to ask if they can have your number to CALL YOU IN CANADA! They have proven harmless, but saying no and walking away is more than okay.

17. I can't tolerate Bruno Mars on any continent.

18. Bawling one's eyes out on the way to the airport marks the end of a fantastic trip.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Four Out of Five Ain't Bad: Safari-ing in the Kruger

It's hard to imagine making a trip to Africa without partaking in some sort of safari. Ever since hearing my Grama's amazing stories of all the wildlife she saw both in South Africa and Zimbabwe, I knew that I couldn't miss out, and started doing my homework. I had heard amazing things about Kruger Park, and upon finding a five-day budget camping safari, I decided to sign up right away. Yes, it was a little on the expensive side, but keep in mind, that includes meals, transportation, tented accommodation, and of course, the experience of a lifetime. Giving myself the chance to spend almost a week in the Kruger, searching out the Big Five seemed like money well spent.

I booked my safari through a company called African Budget Safaris, who referred me to Livingstone Trails, which was the company who would actually take me to the Kruger.

I had read mixed reviews on Livingstone Trails before starting my safari, but it sounded like the majority of people who had negative experiences had been expecting a champagne sort of safari. Since I would be content as long as I saw some animals and was kept relatively safe, I kept my expectations high. To say that they did not disappoint would be a massive understatement. From the moment I was picked up to the moment I was dropped off, I felt like I was well taken care of, well fed, and definitely saw an amazing amount of wildlife. Our guide Deon was a fantastic spotter, and had an incredible knowledge of the wildlife in the park. I definitely felt that I got my money's worth and more!

The safari began at 5:00am. I was picked up at my hostel, and from there, we spent a few hours driving all over Johannesburg, picking up the six other people in the group. Since Jo'burg is quite a widespread city, and the traffic is heinous, this took quite a while. However, this was the only part of the entire experience that wasn't awesome, and it was really beyond anyone's control, so there you go.

I was glad to see that my safari group consisted of people around my own age, none of which were wearing khaki safari suits. I was worried that I would be out of place, what with my being under fifty-five, and lack of khaki.

After everyone had been picked up, we headed to the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre. Although the main specialty here are cheetahs, there are also lions, wild dogs and various birds being bred here. At the beginning of the tour, we were shown a short DVD, which explained how the Centre came to be, and all of the work they had done to breed certain endangered species, some of which had been returned to the wild. The Centre had many success stories, and I was very impressed by how humane the operation was.

After watching the DVD, we were taken on a short drive through the Centre. All of the animals were kept in very large enclosures, which were designed to mimic the natural habitats of the animals. Although there were fences, it didn't feel like a zoo, which I appreciated. There was lots of room for the animals to hang out. There were tons of cheetahs lazing about in the shade, as well as two lions and a pack of wild dogs! Let me just say that cheetah cubs have to be the cutest things alive!

After the drive, we were able to look around the gift shop and cafe. All of the money from the souvenirs went towards maintaining the Centre. I bought myself a stuffed wild dog. It sort of reminded me of my own dog, and the money went to a good cause. Who could resist?

The next stop was the campsite. We slept in canvas tents, which are pretty much the same as standard nylon tents at home, except they're more effective at keeping malaria-carrying mosquitoes (although it's winter, so mosquitoes are not as abundant right now - nobody panic!) After that, we had an early supper (a delicious-looking braai for the carnivores, and some soy chicken for the solitary vegetarian. Not naming names) and then were driven fifteen minutes down the road for a two-hour night drive! I really had my heart set on seeing a leopard in a tree, although unfortunately, we didn't see too much...just a spotted genet (a small African cat), tons of bats and - crikey! - a gigantic crocodile! However, it was awesome just to be off-roading through the middle of Africa in search of nocturnal wildlife - freezing hands notwithstanding.

Fair warning: it gets COLD at night in winter!

The next day was another jackrabbit start: awake at 5:00am, and off to the park by 6:00 in search of the Big Five (for the record, the Big Five are lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos and buffalo). The hour-long drive from the campsite to the park is horribly bumpy - especially if you happen to get stuck in the back of the 4x4 vehicle - but the end result is worth it. Also, apparently it's colder up front. I'll take bumps. It's still freezing in the morning, and I suggest bringing a sleeping bag.

One of the first things we saw upon entering the park was a small herd of buffalo! One down! After that, we saw hundreds of impalas, zebras and giraffes - which were exciting to spot every time. We also saw gnus (the wildebeests that killed Mufasa for all you movie aficionados) and warthogs, which are two of the Ugly Five (the other three being marabou storks, vultures and hyenas - I disagree with the last one!)

Just before stopping for breakfast, we saw our first herd of elephants! There were several mothers with babies, just hanging out, quite close to the road. Deon warned us not to stand up or make too much noise, as the elephants could potentially charge the vehicle. Needles to say, this would not be ideal. The African elephants are much bigger than the ones I saw in Asia!

After preparing a delicious breakfast in the bush, we were off again. Soon after, we saw a male rhino in the distance, taking a nap! Since I had never seen a rhino before, not even in a zoo, this was extremely exciting. Not long after, we stumbled upon three hippos hanging out in the water! Did you know that hippos kill more people per year than any of the other animals? They're vicious buggers when you provoke them! Deon told us some stories about tourists who think that getting out of their cars to pose by the hippos is a good idea. Idiots.

The next two days of the safari were the same schedule as the first. However, on day two, we started out by watching a lioness cross the road. It was way off in the distance, but still. A lion is a lion! During the course of the day we also saw a mother rhino with her baby, more elephants, giraffes and zebras, and three massive crocodiles!

On day three, we saw a whole pride of lions in the distance, chilling under some trees! We also saw an impala hanging in a tree - proof of a leopard nearby - a hippo sleeping under a tree, and ostriches running by the road. Birds are ubiquitous in the Kruger, and whether you're seeing vultures or lilac-breasted rollers, there's always one nearby.

You would think that I would get sick of driving around the park in search of animals, but I can honestly say that I didn't. There are definitely parts of the safari that involve driving for long periods of time without seeing anything - maybe an impala, kudu or waterbuck - but there's nothing wrong with looking out at the African savanna, mistaking rocks and bushes for lions or hyenas. I saw four out of the big five, and even four out of the ugly five!

On day five, we had to wake up an hour earlier! We wanted to drive by the Blyde River Canyon and the Three Rondavels, but since there had been strikes and reports of people throwing stones, we decided to head over early, and that way, if the area was closed, we could still make it back to Jo'burg in decent time.

We really lucked out. Since it was early morning, we were the only souls in the area, apart from some baboons, who thankfully kept their distance. The sight of the canyon - the third largest in the world - was stunning, with a cliff that dropped down to an amazing river, and layered sandstone formations, the likes of which I had only seen in pictures until now. The Three Rondavels are rock formations that resemble African rondavels (huts). The sun was rising right over them upon arrival, so I had to squint to see them. Unfortunately, I didn't get any great pictures because the lighting was wrong at that time of day. Still, I've seen them with my own, squinted eyes, and the pictures just make out the silhouettes. So I can almost prove I was there.

I'm definitely disappointed that I didn't see a leopard or a hyena, but I know that this is really out of anyone's control, seeing how leopards are apparently hard to spot (har har), and hyenas are mostly nocturnal. I'm very content with what I did see (it really was tons), very impressed by my guide's knowledge of animals, spotting abilities, and hilarious commentary, and very happy with my overall experience in the Kruger. I would absolutely recommend doing a budget safari with Livingstone Trails, as long as you don't mind sleeping in a tent, or washing your own dishes.

Tonight, believe it or not, I fly back to Calgary. Please excuse me as I go cry my eyes out. South Africa, I love you.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

An Unexpected Travel Highlight: Soweto

For anyone who has seen the movie District 9, picturing Soweto is going to be easy. Just imagine the same tin shacks, dirt roads and crowded conditions. There's just one difference: instead of aliens, picture people.

Since I decided to come to South Africa, a trip to Soweto was high on my "must-do" list. Home to an estimated five million people, Soweto - which stands for South Western Townships - is a city in itself, containing the history of a life-changing uprising, the street which has been home to two Nobel Peace Prize winners (Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu), four different styles of houses, and some of the most amazing people you will ever meet.

Like I've said before, my preconceived idea of the townships were a bunch of tin houses stacked on top of each other, and hard-done-by people in the streets. I pictured a falling down, miserable place.

I'm happy to say that Soweto has proven me wrong.

I'm not saying that life in Soweto is a cake walk. Every day, those people face hardships that I can't even comprehend. Food and water shortages, HIV/AIDS, little government funding and unsanitary conditions are just a few. Still, I was absolutely blown away by the smiles I saw coming from the Sowetan people. The children waved from the streets, the adults invited us into their homes, and the attitude was one of hope.

The tour of Soweto began at the Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum. This museum is dedicated to the uprising among Sowetan schoolchildren in 1976. The students did not want to learn Afrikaans at school, and formed a protest. It began with marching and singing protest songs, but upon the arrival of the police forces, it erupted. Students threw rocks, and police shot guns. The first casualty was a thirteen-year-old student named Hector Pieterson.

This small museum is laid out in a simple yet poignant way. Photographs and small blurbs about each event leading up to the riots line the walls upwards, until the top floor, which is dedicated to the aftermath. The footage shown around the museum is unbelievable. I had never even heard of the Soweto Uprising before arriving in South Africa, and it was incredible to see documentation of such a powerful event, as well as standing in the very spot where Hector Pieterson had died.

I admire the dignity and pride that the people of Soweto have maintained. From the museum to the streets of the township itself, past the former residence of Mandela to the current residence of Archbishop Tutu, the whole area had a vibrant, forward-moving feel, both through the developed streets, and the poorest of the poor.

Because many of the people in Soweto live in extreme poverty, they felt that they had nothing to lose by inviting us into their homes, and showing us how they lived. I thought about the walled-off homes in the suburbs compared to the openness and sense of community I felt in Soweto.

I liked Soweto better.

Not all of the houses in Soweto are the same. The "bank houses" are two bedroom houses, which people get when they are able to pay the bank for their homes. These houses, while small, and by no means luxurious, don't actually look so bad! The "matchbox houses" and "elephant houses" are smaller, but still have somewhat solid walls, doors and windows. The elephant houses have big, clay roofs, which is where the name comes from.

The slums (the District 9 houses) are a famous visual of Apartheid. These were the houses that we chose to visit. One of the women, accompanied by her three beautiful children, led us into her home with a big smile. The house was tiny - and that is an understatement. The tin roof and tin walls had gaps between them, the bed (only one) was shoved in one corner, a propane stove for heating and cooking was in the centre of the room, and there was a small desk in the other corner. That was it.

I can't believe that people all over the country are living like this. The people of Soweto showed no sign of bitterness or contempt. They seemed genuinely pleased that we were willing to step outside our comfort zone and into theirs to learn about their lifestyle. This really had an impact on me. I'm so glad I had the opportunity - privilege if you will - to get a glimpse of the life in the townships firsthand, and meet some of the amazing, beautiful people that live there.

On the way out of Orlando (in Soweto), we drove by two huge cooling towers, which had been painted with murals and converted into a bungee jump. Mthandeni offered to stop if anyone wanted to give it a go. Maybe next time.

Seeing Soweto, its history and its people was one of the biggest travel highlights of my life. If you are in South Africa, do not, I repeat DO NOT miss Soweto. It was surprising, heartbreaking, and hopeful all at once. Walking into a darker part of a country's lifestyle is essential to understanding another very different aspect of life.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The Essential Johannesburg in One Day

Since I only have two days in Jo'burg before I head off to Kruger Park, I had a plan to jam-pack some of the main points of interest into my two day stay. The plan was to go to the Apartheid Museum on the first day, and visit Soweto on the second. Unfortunately, when I looked at the prices for each individual tour, I almost passed out. Fortunately, there was another option: do a city tour of Jo'burg, the Apartheid Museum and Soweto all in one day...for a fair bit cheaper. I was also lucky enough to meet Erika, another solo female traveller (it is a thing), and it was cheaper for two! So we signed up.

Our guide Mthandeni (say it five times fast) met us at 7:45am. He is easily one of the most amazing people I've met so far, with one of the most incredible stories. Originally from the KwaZulu-Natal province, he lives in the shacks in Soweto with a wife and two children. He told us that by next year, he will receive his government house, which is a major step up. I wish him the best!

After picking up two more people who were joining the tour, Mthandeni welcomed us all wholeheartedly to South Africa, and then explained about the Cradle of Humankind: the world's oldest human fossils were found in this area, and therefore humankind may well have originated around Jo'burg and Pretoria. He welcomed us home.

Before officially starting the tour, he told us about all of the different sights and places around Johannesburg, such as the original gold mine, the crocodile farm, and various different historical sites-turned tourist haunts. It was incredible how much he knew about the area and its surroundings! If you ever need to know anything about South Africa, ask this guy. He'll tell you.

The first stop on the tour was Rosebank, one of the wealthy suburbs of Johannesburg, just north of the City Centre. It was amazing to see these huge mansions surrounded by high walls, razor wire, electric fencing, and some of the abysmally large houses even had their own security guards! It was sad to see that the fear of the outside world was driving these people to hold themselves prisoner in their own homes.

After Rosebank, we drove by the house where Nelson Mandela now lives! For security reasons, we couldn't actually stop in front of the house. Shame we couldn't knock on the door and say hi.

Next, we headed to the Constitutional Court, where we learned that South Africa had eleven official languages, which were all represented on the front of the building. Mthandeni urged me to try to pronounce some words in Xhosa (the "clicking" language), and then gave me a six-out-of-ten score! I was very proud.

Since in African culture, issues used to be resolved under the shade of trees, the inside of the courthouse was designed to look as if it were underneath trees. It was a beautifully designed building, and I liked seeing all of the different cultures represented. Some of the walls were built from the old fort, which had been a prison for a while. The contrast of these bricks mixed with new walls represented the past and future of the nation.

After that, we headed to downtown Johannesburg! Mthandeni promised that he would offer superior protection, and explained that his left fist was the "hospital option", and the right fist was the "grave option" and any assailants could take their pick. I felt very safe.

Downtown Jo'burg is definitely not as vibrant and attractive as Cape Town. It's mostly big buildings and rather dirty streets. It has the look of a corporate city, and overall, it's a little beat. However, some of the side streets had a certain charm. We got to look into one of the older stores in the area, which sold hooves, dried skins and herbs to cure whatever ails you. It was very cool in a rather morbid sort of way.

Based on what I had seen in the media before I came, I had expected downtown Johannesburg to be terrifying, full of leering locals, and I wondered if a bullet-proof vest would be a requirement. Maybe it was simply because I was on a guided tour, but I really didn't feel threatened or even sketched-out at all. Everyone I saw was just going about their business, and nobody seemed malicious or spiteful at all. I did notice that there weren't many white people out and about. It was interesting to be a part of a physical minority.

The last stop on the city tour was the "Top of Africa", located on the top floor of the Carlton Centre. You take an elevator up 50 floors, and get an amazing view of Johannesburg from all angles. It wasn't a part of the tour, but it only cost R20 (about $3) extra. Why not?

The next stop on the tour was the infamous Soweto. More on that later.

After Soweto, we headed to the Apartheid Museum. The museum starts out by issuing you a ticket, which randomly classifies you as "white" or "non-white".

For the record, "non-white" refers to any black, Indian, Asian, and mixed-race people.

The exhibit begins by giving a background on how Apartheid government came to be in the 1930s and 1940s. The (white) government wanted to give poor Afrikaaners a chance to get work, and so they moved all of the non-white citizens to their own areas (townships), so that they would not "interfere".

The museum, set up like a giant maze, takes you through the beginning of Apartheid, life in the townships, resistance groups, and then more horrifying exhibits, such as life for non-whites during this time, torture and imprisonment. There are original signs hanging on the walls saying "Europeans only". To be honest, it wasn't all that different from Nazi Germany, was it?

I learned about the "passbook" that all non-white citizens had to present in order to leave the townships. If they failed to present this, they would be arrested. It's really no wonder that people acted desperately by mugging wealthy citizens and other desperate measures, contributing to Johannesburg's high crime rate.

Many white families had black "servants" who would cook, clean and look after the children. Of course, the servants were not allowed to "love" the children...just take care of them objectively, as if that was possible.

Many activists, such as Mandela, Robert Sobukwe, and Steve Biko were tortured via electric shocks and beaten, and thrown into prison for resisting the Apartheid government.

The uprising in Soweto was a turning point in politics. Many non-white citizens, from schoolchildren to adults, rallied together against oppression. Many of them were killed or injured in conflict with police.

The museum shows a twenty-minute film, which shows footage from actual political rallies, and interviews with people who were involved. It was incredible to see such passion and violence. This twenty-minute documentary really brought to life what had been happening in a gripping, disturbing, evocative way.

The Apartheid Museum effectively conveys its message; it's hard to take all of the information given in the museum. It shows that Apartheid was not only unjust and full of hardship, but evil. Multimedia, written words and photographic presentations of this time - not very long ago - really paint a saddening, eye-opening, yet hopeful picture. I feel that I understand much more about Apartheid and the people involved than I did before coming to South Africa.

The final display in the museum shows Mandela's release in 1990, and the 1994 election which changed the world. The exit of the museum is lined with words like "responsibility", "freedom" and "diversity", as well as a small, serene pool. What a trip. The ending really gives a strong message of hope about the country's future.

Though the effects of Apartheid are far from forgotten, the optimism of the people in the country is evident. Despite a horrible past, I have felt safe in the country. The locals are pleased that I'm interested in their culture and history, and I feel honoured that they have welcomed me, and willingly told their stories.

Sometimes compassion and understanding - "ubuntu" here - can make all the difference. Respect and love for others drives the future of any country, and the South Africans I've met have shown this more than anyone. I highly recommend the Apartheid Museum. It's hard to look at, but essential to our understanding of South Africa's history, and the history of many people and cultures all over the world.

To read about Soweto, check the most recent blog.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The Last Two Days in Cape Town

Believe it or not, my time in Cape Town is nearly done. Tomorrow morning I'm heading to the airport to fly to Jo'burg for the next part of my trip. I can't believe that my week in the Mother City is over...I've grown pretty attached. I hate to pick favourites, but Cape Town is definitely up there, and it's going to be hard to leave.

Yesterday, the weather was still a little chilly, but it had stopped pouring, so I signed up for a trip to the Cape Point, which is the absolute south-westerly point of the African continent. The tour started at 8:30 in the morning, and continued on right until almost 6:00. The Peninsula is a big place!

Our first stop on the tour was going to be Hout Bay, whose main claim to fame is the seal colony. On the way out, we drove past the Twelve Apostles of Table Mountain, and past the Atlantic Ocean, where the wind was creating the biggest swells I've ever seen. I still can't believe how stunning the scenery all around Cape Town is. Every way you turn your head, there's a beautiful landscape, just waiting to be ooh-ed and aah-ed over.

Just before Hout Bay, the first stop, we drove by Camps Bay, which is one of the most expensive communities in South Africa. Shortly down the road, we passed a township. I'm not sure I'll ever completely get used to seeing massive wedding-cake houses next to tin shacks. It's a bizarre and upsetting contrast.

At Hout Bay, t was an extra R50 to take a 45-minute ferry tour to Duiker Island, but I decided to give it a go. Unfortunately, out of the harbour, the waves were putting on a Titanic-esque show, and we had to turn around. I'll be honest, I'm getting a little sick of boats. I was a little disappointed that we didn't see the seals on the island, but on the way into the harbour, there were a bunch of them lazing around on the docks, and two of them were halfheartedly fighting. This made up for it. At one point, a man on the dock was trying to shoo the seals away from his boat. I was really hoping one of them would chase him down. No dice.

After Hout Bay, we drove past Chapman's Peak, where we stopped a few times for photo-ops. Chapman's Peak looks down over the ocean and the Cape of Storms. I learned that over 1, 000 shipwrecks had occurred on this coast (hence the name).

The next stop was definitely a highlight: Simon's Town, a cute little Navy base-turned seaside village. It had a lovely, relaxed atmosphere, frequent whale sightings...and it's also five minutes away from Boulders Beach, home of the infamous Jackass Penguins!

The penguins were definitely one of the high points of the tour. There were tons of them just hanging out on the beach, lying in the bushes, and a few of them running down the shore! The water washing over the boulders was stunning, and I couldn't help thinking that they had scoped out one of the best places to live. They're quite small, and very tempting to pet, although the signs warning of being bitten made me reconsider.

After the penguins, we drove into the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, and were given the option of riding seven kilometres to the visitors' centre for a picnic lunch. Everyone took advantage of the biking option. Although the ride was mostly flat, the strong, freezing headwind and spitting rain made the few uphills quite hard, and the visibility wasn't great. I rode into the visitors' centre rather stiff, but soon forgot at the sight of the lunch. There was awesome bread, vegetables, pasta salad, juice...should I go on?

Then, it was the moment I had been waiting for: another seven kilometre ride to the Cape of Good Hope itself! It had stopped raining, and this ride didn't seem so intense. On the way in, we rode right by a family of baboons and two ostriches right on the beach! I arrived at the Cape of Good Hope by bicycle! I didn't see that one coming.

The Cape of Good Hope is easily one of the most beautiful locations I've seen on my trip. The waves were gigantic, and the ocean looked like a giant washing machine. This is the point where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. There were boulders, and the sites of past shipwrecks all over, and of course, the famous "Cape of Good Hope" sign. I, of course, did the typical tourist thing and got my picture taken...holding a Canadian flag no less!

The next destination was the Cape Point, with the old and new lighthouses. We took a twenty minute walk up to the lookout - which took the cake for best view of the Peninsula - and then loaded back in the van to head back to Cape Town. It was definitely a long trip, but I feel like I learned quite a bit about the area, and saw some of the most famous and incredible sights in the world. Props to our guide Neil, who was like a walking, joking textbook on Cape Town! If you're ever in Cape Town and want to see the Peninsula, go through Daytrippers. I definitely got my money's worth!

Today, the weather had turned right around, and once again, there were clear skies. This meant only one thing: I was going to hike Table Mountain! For the past few days, the weather has been rather unforgiving, and I was worried that I wouldn't be able to hike the mountain. If there's major cloud cover, there's no point in going to the top, because there are no views. I also had yet to meet a single other person who was interested in the hike. Since I had heard stories about muggings at the base of the mountain, and - worse - people getting lost or dying due to treacherous conditions, I didn't think going alone would be the world's best idea.

I made an enquiry about a hike through Abseil Africa on Monday. Unfortunately, they needed at least two people to confirm the hike. It wasn't looking good. Luckily for me, Lenore, who works in the office there, had my back. She referred me to another guide, who was willing to take me up the mountain! She really went out of her way to make this happen for me, and I am so grateful!

This morning, at 8:30 (I'm sensing a theme), I was picked up, and we were off! I learned that the Cable Car was closed today, due to winds over 30 km/h. This meant that whether I liked it or not, we were hiking up and down. Fine by me!

The route we took was via Platteklip Gorge. I was fully expecting this hike to be Grouse Grind-esque, with lots of high-stepping and holding onto ropes and whatnot. It was definitely not a walk in the park by any means. The whole way up, you have to maneuver your way over big sandstone rocks, like a naturally-placed staircase. However, despite the careful-footing and extremely steep route, it didn't actually seem too terrible. The worst part for me was the wind; there were a few moments where I was sure I was going to be blown off the mountain, all the way to Robben Island. My hands were absolutely frozen, but after a good hour and a half of climbing, we made it!

The "Tablecloth" (cloud cover that often sits on top of the mountain) didn't appear today because of the wind, and the views from the top were spectacular. I had a perfect bird's-eye view of the City Bowl, Camps Bay, Clifton Beach, Hout Bay, and even a fair ways down the Peninsula! Although the wind was brutal, and therefore I didn't spend too long on the top, I was blown away (har har) by the views. I'm so, so glad Binny was willing to do the hike, because it really made my trip! Considering the obstacles in the weather and finding willing participants to hike, I consider myself very lucky that I got to do this on my last day in this amazing city.

Surprisingly, I found going back down the mountain harder than hiking up. Because of the gale-force winds and all the rocks, you had to pay very close attention to each footfall, and each stone step is far enough apart that it's quite a step down, and this was not a place I wanted to take a fall! My knees and hips were a little sore at the end, and my hands were pretty much petrified. Would I ever do it again? Absolutely.

I was very proud of myself for hiking up and back again. From now on, whenever I think of Table Mountain, I'll remember that I was on the top of the table! I also learned that the wind is the main reason the city isn't covered in pollution. They call it the "Cape Doctor".

I'd recommend this hike to anyone! There's a huge sense of fulfillment when you reach the top, and apparently it's not always so windy. Also, I saw a man hiking in bare feet, a bunch of teenagers in Keds, and a woman in a skirt and dress shoes hoofing it to the top. So if they can do it...

For the record, as excited as I am for the rest of my trip, I'm now feeling very bummed out about leaving this city. Cape Town, I love you!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com