The Wandering Jew

What I Learned in South Africa

2011-08-23T01:47:00.000-07:00

1. Seeing ostriches out the window on your first day in the country will cause you to squeal like a little girl. On a crowded bus.

2. Watching farm dogs chase baboons never gets old. It's always funny.

3. Jews CAN build sheds!
4. When you have thick, curly hair and don't have the opportunity to wash it every day, you will eventually turn around, catch a glimpse of yourself in the mirror, and your first thought will be "What is the mother from Coal Miner's Daughter doing here?"

5. Don't go hiking in the rain with a Malarone tablet in your pocket. It will dissolve into yellow mush and get all over everything.

6. There is no shame in having "The Lion Sleeps Tonight" on repeat on your iPod.

7. When you become accustomed to having your own guava tree in the front yard, you go through withdrawal when you go back to the city.
8. Sharks are incredibly badass.

9. It is impossible for me to ride a bicycle without huge gale-force winds and uphills working against me. I did a fair bit of cycling this trip, always with killer headwinds. This doesn't just apply to South Africa. This has been the case since my first-ever bike ride.

10. In Cape Town - Long Street in particular - beggars will come up to you, always starting their pitch with, "I'm not a bad guy!" These people are the absolute, soul-sucking worst. They'll trail you for half a block, moaning about how they don't want money - just some coins or a R10 bill. Hmmm. My personal favourite was a man saying he wanted me to buy milk for his baby. Now, before you judge me too harshly, let me explain: there was no baby in sight. No baby, no money.

11. Despite what the media tells you, sometimes you have to see a country for yourself before making assumptions. I have been completely safe, never felt threatened, and have been treated in a kind, sisterly way by locals.

12. South African accents are drool-worthy.
13. You eat more, you see more.

14. When you spot a jackal, quoting Family Guy's "JACKAL! A jackal! Is it a jackal? It's a jackal!" is entirely appropriate.

15. Cape Town drivers are not great. Jo'burg drivers are worse.

16. If you happen to be female, random men might stop you on the street to ask if they can have your number to CALL YOU IN CANADA! They have proven harmless, but saying no and walking away is more than okay.

17. I can't tolerate Bruno Mars on any continent.

18. Bawling one's eyes out on the way to the airport marks the end of a fantastic trip.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Four Out of Five Ain't Bad: Safari-ing in the Kruger

2011-08-23T00:54:00.000-07:00

It's hard to imagine making a trip to Africa without partaking in some sort of safari. Ever since hearing my Grama's amazing stories of all the wildlife she saw both in South Africa and Zimbabwe, I knew that I couldn't miss out, and started doing my homework. I had heard amazing things about Kruger Park, and upon finding a five-day budget camping safari, I decided to sign up right away. Yes, it was a little on the expensive side, but keep in mind, that includes meals, transportation, tented accommodation, and of course, the experience of a lifetime. Giving myself the chance to spend almost a week in the Kruger, searching out the Big Five seemed like money well spent.

I booked my safari through a company called African Budget Safaris, who referred me to Livingstone Trails, which was the company who would actually take me to the Kruger.

I had read mixed reviews on Livingstone Trails before starting my safari, but it sounded like the majority of people who had negative experiences had been expecting a champagne sort of safari. Since I would be content as long as I saw some animals and was kept relatively safe, I kept my expectations high. To say that they did not disappoint would be a massive understatement. From the moment I was picked up to the moment I was dropped off, I felt like I was well taken care of, well fed, and definitely saw an amazing amount of wildlife. Our guide Deon was a fantastic spotter, and had an incredible knowledge of the wildlife in the park. I definitely felt that I got my money's worth and more!

The safari began at 5:00am. I was picked up at my hostel, and from there, we spent a few hours driving all over Johannesburg, picking up the six other people in the group. Since Jo'burg is quite a widespread city, and the traffic is heinous, this took quite a while. However, this was the only part of the entire experience that wasn't awesome, and it was really beyond anyone's control, so there you go.

I was glad to see that my safari group consisted of people around my own age, none of which were wearing khaki safari suits. I was worried that I would be out of place, what with my being under fifty-five, and lack of khaki.

After everyone had been picked up, we headed to the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre. Although the main specialty here are cheetahs, there are also lions, wild dogs and various birds being bred here. At the beginning of the tour, we were shown a short DVD, which explained how the Centre came to be, and all of the work they had done to breed certain endangered species, some of which had been returned to the wild. The Centre had many success stories, and I was very impressed by how humane the operation was.

After watching the DVD, we were taken on a short drive through the Centre. All of the animals were kept in very large enclosures, which were designed to mimic the natural habitats of the animals. Although there were fences, it didn't feel like a zoo, which I appreciated. There was lots of room for the animals to hang out. There were tons of cheetahs lazing about in the shade, as well as two lions and a pack of wild dogs! Let me just say that cheetah cubs have to be the cutest things alive!

After the drive, we were able to look around the gift shop and cafe. All of the money from the souvenirs went towards maintaining the Centre. I bought myself a stuffed wild dog. It sort of reminded me of my own dog, and the money went to a good cause. Who could resist?

The next stop was the campsite. We slept in canvas tents, which are pretty much the same as standard nylon tents at home, except they're more effective at keeping malaria-carrying mosquitoes (although it's winter, so mosquitoes are not as abundant right now - nobody panic!) After that, we had an early supper (a delicious-looking braai for the carnivores, and some soy chicken for the solitary vegetarian. Not naming names) and then were driven fifteen minutes down the road for a two-hour night drive! I really had my heart set on seeing a leopard in a tree, although unfortunately, we didn't see too much...just a spotted genet (a small African cat), tons of bats and - crikey! - a gigantic crocodile! However, it was awesome just to be off-roading through the middle of Africa in search of nocturnal wildlife - freezing hands notwithstanding.

Fair warning: it gets COLD at night in winter!

The next day was another jackrabbit start: awake at 5:00am, and off to the park by 6:00 in search of the Big Five (for the record, the Big Five are lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos and buffalo). The hour-long drive from the campsite to the park is horribly bumpy - especially if you happen to get stuck in the back of the 4x4 vehicle - but the end result is worth it. Also, apparently it's colder up front. I'll take bumps. It's still freezing in the morning, and I suggest bringing a sleeping bag.

One of the first things we saw upon entering the park was a small herd of buffalo! One down! After that, we saw hundreds of impalas, zebras and giraffes - which were exciting to spot every time. We also saw gnus (the wildebeests that killed Mufasa for all you movie aficionados) and warthogs, which are two of the Ugly Five (the other three being marabou storks, vultures and hyenas - I disagree with the last one!)

Just before stopping for breakfast, we saw our first herd of elephants! There were several mothers with babies, just hanging out, quite close to the road. Deon warned us not to stand up or make too much noise, as the elephants could potentially charge the vehicle. Needles to say, this would not be ideal. The African elephants are much bigger than the ones I saw in Asia!

After preparing a delicious breakfast in the bush, we were off again. Soon after, we saw a male rhino in the distance, taking a nap! Since I had never seen a rhino before, not even in a zoo, this was extremely exciting. Not long after, we stumbled upon three hippos hanging out in the water! Did you know that hippos kill more people per year than any of the other animals? They're vicious buggers when you provoke them! Deon told us some stories about tourists who think that getting out of their cars to pose by the hippos is a good idea. Idiots.

The next two days of the safari were the same schedule as the first. However, on day two, we started out by watching a lioness cross the road. It was way off in the distance, but still. A lion is a lion! During the course of the day we also saw a mother rhino with her baby, more elephants, giraffes and zebras, and three massive crocodiles!

On day three, we saw a whole pride of lions in the distance, chilling under some trees! We also saw an impala hanging in a tree - proof of a leopard nearby - a hippo sleeping under a tree, and ostriches running by the road. Birds are ubiquitous in the Kruger, and whether you're seeing vultures or lilac-breasted rollers, there's always one nearby.

You would think that I would get sick of driving around the park in search of animals, but I can honestly say that I didn't. There are definitely parts of the safari that involve driving for long periods of time without seeing anything - maybe an impala, kudu or waterbuck - but there's nothing wrong with looking out at the African savanna, mistaking rocks and bushes for lions or hyenas. I saw four out of the big five, and even four out of the ugly five!

On day five, we had to wake up an hour earlier! We wanted to drive by the Blyde River Canyon and the Three Rondavels, but since there had been strikes and reports of people throwing stones, we decided to head over early, and that way, if the area was closed, we could still make it back to Jo'burg in decent time.

We really lucked out. Since it was early morning, we were the only souls in the area, apart from some baboons, who thankfully kept their distance. The sight of the canyon - the third largest in the world - was stunning, with a cliff that dropped down to an amazing river, and layered sandstone formations, the likes of which I had only seen in pictures until now. The Three Rondavels are rock formations that resemble African rondavels (huts). The sun was rising right over them upon arrival, so I had to squint to see them. Unfortunately, I didn't get any great pictures because the lighting was wrong at that time of day. Still, I've seen them with my own, squinted eyes, and the pictures just make out the silhouettes. So I can almost prove I was there.

I'm definitely disappointed that I didn't see a leopard or a hyena, but I know that this is really out of anyone's control, seeing how leopards are apparently hard to spot (har har), and hyenas are mostly nocturnal. I'm very content with what I did see (it really was tons), very impressed by my guide's knowledge of animals, spotting abilities, and hilarious commentary, and very happy with my overall experience in the Kruger. I would absolutely recommend doing a budget safari with Livingstone Trails, as long as you don't mind sleeping in a tent, or washing your own dishes.

Tonight, believe it or not, I fly back to Calgary. Please excuse me as I go cry my eyes out. South Africa, I love you.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

An Unexpected Travel Highlight: Soweto

2011-08-17T03:45:00.000-07:00

For anyone who has seen the movie District 9, picturing Soweto is going to be easy. Just imagine the same tin shacks, dirt roads and crowded conditions. There's just one difference: instead of aliens, picture people.

Since I decided to come to South Africa, a trip to Soweto was high on my "must-do" list. Home to an estimated five million people, Soweto - which stands for South Western Townships - is a city in itself, containing the history of a life-changing uprising, the street which has been home to two Nobel Peace Prize winners (Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu), four different styles of houses, and some of the most amazing people you will ever meet.

Like I've said before, my preconceived idea of the townships were a bunch of tin houses stacked on top of each other, and hard-done-by people in the streets. I pictured a falling down, miserable place.

I'm happy to say that Soweto has proven me wrong.

I'm not saying that life in Soweto is a cake walk. Every day, those people face hardships that I can't even comprehend. Food and water shortages, HIV/AIDS, little government funding and unsanitary conditions are just a few. Still, I was absolutely blown away by the smiles I saw coming from the Sowetan people. The children waved from the streets, the adults invited us into their homes, and the attitude was one of hope.

The tour of Soweto began at the Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum. This museum is dedicated to the uprising among Sowetan schoolchildren in 1976. The students did not want to learn Afrikaans at school, and formed a protest. It began with marching and singing protest songs, but upon the arrival of the police forces, it erupted. Students threw rocks, and police shot guns. The first casualty was a thirteen-year-old student named Hector Pieterson.

This small museum is laid out in a simple yet poignant way. Photographs and small blurbs about each event leading up to the riots line the walls upwards, until the top floor, which is dedicated to the aftermath. The footage shown around the museum is unbelievable. I had never even heard of the Soweto Uprising before arriving in South Africa, and it was incredible to see documentation of such a powerful event, as well as standing in the very spot where Hector Pieterson had died.

I admire the dignity and pride that the people of Soweto have maintained. From the museum to the streets of the township itself, past the former residence of Mandela to the current residence of Archbishop Tutu, the whole area had a vibrant, forward-moving feel, both through the developed streets, and the poorest of the poor.

Because many of the people in Soweto live in extreme poverty, they felt that they had nothing to lose by inviting us into their homes, and showing us how they lived. I thought about the walled-off homes in the suburbs compared to the openness and sense of community I felt in Soweto.

I liked Soweto better.

Not all of the houses in Soweto are the same. The "bank houses" are two bedroom houses, which people get when they are able to pay the bank for their homes. These houses, while small, and by no means luxurious, don't actually look so bad! The "matchbox houses" and "elephant houses" are smaller, but still have somewhat solid walls, doors and windows. The elephant houses have big, clay roofs, which is where the name comes from.

The slums (the District 9 houses) are a famous visual of Apartheid. These were the houses that we chose to visit. One of the women, accompanied by her three beautiful children, led us into her home with a big smile. The house was tiny - and that is an understatement. The tin roof and tin walls had gaps between them, the bed (only one) was shoved in one corner, a propane stove for heating and cooking was in the centre of the room, and there was a small desk in the other corner. That was it.

I can't believe that people all over the country are living like this. The people of Soweto showed no sign of bitterness or contempt. They seemed genuinely pleased that we were willing to step outside our comfort zone and into theirs to learn about their lifestyle. This really had an impact on me. I'm so glad I had the opportunity - privilege if you will - to get a glimpse of the life in the townships firsthand, and meet some of the amazing, beautiful people that live there.

On the way out of Orlando (in Soweto), we drove by two huge cooling towers, which had been painted with murals and converted into a bungee jump. Mthandeni offered to stop if anyone wanted to give it a go. Maybe next time.

Seeing Soweto, its history and its people was one of the biggest travel highlights of my life. If you are in South Africa, do not, I repeat DO NOT miss Soweto. It was surprising, heartbreaking, and hopeful all at once. Walking into a darker part of a country's lifestyle is essential to understanding another very different aspect of life.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The Essential Johannesburg in One Day

2011-08-17T02:59:00.000-07:00

Since I only have two days in Jo'burg before I head off to Kruger Park, I had a plan to jam-pack some of the main points of interest into my two day stay. The plan was to go to the Apartheid Museum on the first day, and visit Soweto on the second. Unfortunately, when I looked at the prices for each individual tour, I almost passed out. Fortunately, there was another option: do a city tour of Jo'burg, the Apartheid Museum and Soweto all in one day...for a fair bit cheaper. I was also lucky enough to meet Erika, another solo female traveller (it is a thing), and it was cheaper for two! So we signed up.

Our guide Mthandeni (say it five times fast) met us at 7:45am. He is easily one of the most amazing people I've met so far, with one of the most incredible stories. Originally from the KwaZulu-Natal province, he lives in the shacks in Soweto with a wife and two children. He told us that by next year, he will receive his government house, which is a major step up. I wish him the best!

After picking up two more people who were joining the tour, Mthandeni welcomed us all wholeheartedly to South Africa, and then explained about the Cradle of Humankind: the world's oldest human fossils were found in this area, and therefore humankind may well have originated around Jo'burg and Pretoria. He welcomed us home.

Before officially starting the tour, he told us about all of the different sights and places around Johannesburg, such as the original gold mine, the crocodile farm, and various different historical sites-turned tourist haunts. It was incredible how much he knew about the area and its surroundings! If you ever need to know anything about South Africa, ask this guy. He'll tell you.

The first stop on the tour was Rosebank, one of the wealthy suburbs of Johannesburg, just north of the City Centre. It was amazing to see these huge mansions surrounded by high walls, razor wire, electric fencing, and some of the abysmally large houses even had their own security guards! It was sad to see that the fear of the outside world was driving these people to hold themselves prisoner in their own homes.

After Rosebank, we drove by the house where Nelson Mandela now lives! For security reasons, we couldn't actually stop in front of the house. Shame we couldn't knock on the door and say hi.

Next, we headed to the Constitutional Court, where we learned that South Africa had eleven official languages, which were all represented on the front of the building. Mthandeni urged me to try to pronounce some words in Xhosa (the "clicking" language), and then gave me a six-out-of-ten score! I was very proud.

Since in African culture, issues used to be resolved under the shade of trees, the inside of the courthouse was designed to look as if it were underneath trees. It was a beautifully designed building, and I liked seeing all of the different cultures represented. Some of the walls were built from the old fort, which had been a prison for a while. The contrast of these bricks mixed with new walls represented the past and future of the nation.

After that, we headed to downtown Johannesburg! Mthandeni promised that he would offer superior protection, and explained that his left fist was the "hospital option", and the right fist was the "grave option" and any assailants could take their pick. I felt very safe.

Downtown Jo'burg is definitely not as vibrant and attractive as Cape Town. It's mostly big buildings and rather dirty streets. It has the look of a corporate city, and overall, it's a little beat. However, some of the side streets had a certain charm. We got to look into one of the older stores in the area, which sold hooves, dried skins and herbs to cure whatever ails you. It was very cool in a rather morbid sort of way.

Based on what I had seen in the media before I came, I had expected downtown Johannesburg to be terrifying, full of leering locals, and I wondered if a bullet-proof vest would be a requirement. Maybe it was simply because I was on a guided tour, but I really didn't feel threatened or even sketched-out at all. Everyone I saw was just going about their business, and nobody seemed malicious or spiteful at all. I did notice that there weren't many white people out and about. It was interesting to be a part of a physical minority.

The last stop on the city tour was the "Top of Africa", located on the top floor of the Carlton Centre. You take an elevator up 50 floors, and get an amazing view of Johannesburg from all angles. It wasn't a part of the tour, but it only cost R20 (about $3) extra. Why not?

The next stop on the tour was the infamous Soweto. More on that later.

After Soweto, we headed to the Apartheid Museum. The museum starts out by issuing you a ticket, which randomly classifies you as "white" or "non-white".

For the record, "non-white" refers to any black, Indian, Asian, and mixed-race people.

The exhibit begins by giving a background on how Apartheid government came to be in the 1930s and 1940s. The (white) government wanted to give poor Afrikaaners a chance to get work, and so they moved all of the non-white citizens to their own areas (townships), so that they would not "interfere".

The museum, set up like a giant maze, takes you through the beginning of Apartheid, life in the townships, resistance groups, and then more horrifying exhibits, such as life for non-whites during this time, torture and imprisonment. There are original signs hanging on the walls saying "Europeans only". To be honest, it wasn't all that different from Nazi Germany, was it?

I learned about the "passbook" that all non-white citizens had to present in order to leave the townships. If they failed to present this, they would be arrested. It's really no wonder that people acted desperately by mugging wealthy citizens and other desperate measures, contributing to Johannesburg's high crime rate.

Many white families had black "servants" who would cook, clean and look after the children. Of course, the servants were not allowed to "love" the children...just take care of them objectively, as if that was possible.

Many activists, such as Mandela, Robert Sobukwe, and Steve Biko were tortured via electric shocks and beaten, and thrown into prison for resisting the Apartheid government.

The uprising in Soweto was a turning point in politics. Many non-white citizens, from schoolchildren to adults, rallied together against oppression. Many of them were killed or injured in conflict with police.

The museum shows a twenty-minute film, which shows footage from actual political rallies, and interviews with people who were involved. It was incredible to see such passion and violence. This twenty-minute documentary really brought to life what had been happening in a gripping, disturbing, evocative way.

The Apartheid Museum effectively conveys its message; it's hard to take all of the information given in the museum. It shows that Apartheid was not only unjust and full of hardship, but evil. Multimedia, written words and photographic presentations of this time - not very long ago - really paint a saddening, eye-opening, yet hopeful picture. I feel that I understand much more about Apartheid and the people involved than I did before coming to South Africa.

The final display in the museum shows Mandela's release in 1990, and the 1994 election which changed the world. The exit of the museum is lined with words like "responsibility", "freedom" and "diversity", as well as a small, serene pool. What a trip. The ending really gives a strong message of hope about the country's future.

Though the effects of Apartheid are far from forgotten, the optimism of the people in the country is evident. Despite a horrible past, I have felt safe in the country. The locals are pleased that I'm interested in their culture and history, and I feel honoured that they have welcomed me, and willingly told their stories.

Sometimes compassion and understanding - "ubuntu" here - can make all the difference. Respect and love for others drives the future of any country, and the South Africans I've met have shown this more than anyone. I highly recommend the Apartheid Museum. It's hard to look at, but essential to our understanding of South Africa's history, and the history of many people and cultures all over the world.

To read about Soweto, check the most recent blog.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The Last Two Days in Cape Town

2011-08-14T07:02:00.000-07:00

Believe it or not, my time in Cape Town is nearly done. Tomorrow morning I'm heading to the airport to fly to Jo'burg for the next part of my trip. I can't believe that my week in the Mother City is over...I've grown pretty attached. I hate to pick favourites, but Cape Town is definitely up there, and it's going to be hard to leave.

Yesterday, the weather was still a little chilly, but it had stopped pouring, so I signed up for a trip to the Cape Point, which is the absolute south-westerly point of the African continent. The tour started at 8:30 in the morning, and continued on right until almost 6:00. The Peninsula is a big place!

Our first stop on the tour was going to be Hout Bay, whose main claim to fame is the seal colony. On the way out, we drove past the Twelve Apostles of Table Mountain, and past the Atlantic Ocean, where the wind was creating the biggest swells I've ever seen. I still can't believe how stunning the scenery all around Cape Town is. Every way you turn your head, there's a beautiful landscape, just waiting to be ooh-ed and aah-ed over.

Just before Hout Bay, the first stop, we drove by Camps Bay, which is one of the most expensive communities in South Africa. Shortly down the road, we passed a township. I'm not sure I'll ever completely get used to seeing massive wedding-cake houses next to tin shacks. It's a bizarre and upsetting contrast.

At Hout Bay, t was an extra R50 to take a 45-minute ferry tour to Duiker Island, but I decided to give it a go. Unfortunately, out of the harbour, the waves were putting on a Titanic-esque show, and we had to turn around. I'll be honest, I'm getting a little sick of boats. I was a little disappointed that we didn't see the seals on the island, but on the way into the harbour, there were a bunch of them lazing around on the docks, and two of them were halfheartedly fighting. This made up for it. At one point, a man on the dock was trying to shoo the seals away from his boat. I was really hoping one of them would chase him down. No dice.

After Hout Bay, we drove past Chapman's Peak, where we stopped a few times for photo-ops. Chapman's Peak looks down over the ocean and the Cape of Storms. I learned that over 1, 000 shipwrecks had occurred on this coast (hence the name).

The next stop was definitely a highlight: Simon's Town, a cute little Navy base-turned seaside village. It had a lovely, relaxed atmosphere, frequent whale sightings...and it's also five minutes away from Boulders Beach, home of the infamous Jackass Penguins!

The penguins were definitely one of the high points of the tour. There were tons of them just hanging out on the beach, lying in the bushes, and a few of them running down the shore! The water washing over the boulders was stunning, and I couldn't help thinking that they had scoped out one of the best places to live. They're quite small, and very tempting to pet, although the signs warning of being bitten made me reconsider.

After the penguins, we drove into the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, and were given the option of riding seven kilometres to the visitors' centre for a picnic lunch. Everyone took advantage of the biking option. Although the ride was mostly flat, the strong, freezing headwind and spitting rain made the few uphills quite hard, and the visibility wasn't great. I rode into the visitors' centre rather stiff, but soon forgot at the sight of the lunch. There was awesome bread, vegetables, pasta salad, juice...should I go on?

Then, it was the moment I had been waiting for: another seven kilometre ride to the Cape of Good Hope itself! It had stopped raining, and this ride didn't seem so intense. On the way in, we rode right by a family of baboons and two ostriches right on the beach! I arrived at the Cape of Good Hope by bicycle! I didn't see that one coming.

The Cape of Good Hope is easily one of the most beautiful locations I've seen on my trip. The waves were gigantic, and the ocean looked like a giant washing machine. This is the point where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. There were boulders, and the sites of past shipwrecks all over, and of course, the famous "Cape of Good Hope" sign. I, of course, did the typical tourist thing and got my picture taken...holding a Canadian flag no less!

The next destination was the Cape Point, with the old and new lighthouses. We took a twenty minute walk up to the lookout - which took the cake for best view of the Peninsula - and then loaded back in the van to head back to Cape Town. It was definitely a long trip, but I feel like I learned quite a bit about the area, and saw some of the most famous and incredible sights in the world. Props to our guide Neil, who was like a walking, joking textbook on Cape Town! If you're ever in Cape Town and want to see the Peninsula, go through Daytrippers. I definitely got my money's worth!

Today, the weather had turned right around, and once again, there were clear skies. This meant only one thing: I was going to hike Table Mountain! For the past few days, the weather has been rather unforgiving, and I was worried that I wouldn't be able to hike the mountain. If there's major cloud cover, there's no point in going to the top, because there are no views. I also had yet to meet a single other person who was interested in the hike. Since I had heard stories about muggings at the base of the mountain, and - worse - people getting lost or dying due to treacherous conditions, I didn't think going alone would be the world's best idea.

I made an enquiry about a hike through Abseil Africa on Monday. Unfortunately, they needed at least two people to confirm the hike. It wasn't looking good. Luckily for me, Lenore, who works in the office there, had my back. She referred me to another guide, who was willing to take me up the mountain! She really went out of her way to make this happen for me, and I am so grateful!

This morning, at 8:30 (I'm sensing a theme), I was picked up, and we were off! I learned that the Cable Car was closed today, due to winds over 30 km/h. This meant that whether I liked it or not, we were hiking up and down. Fine by me!

The route we took was via Platteklip Gorge. I was fully expecting this hike to be Grouse Grind-esque, with lots of high-stepping and holding onto ropes and whatnot. It was definitely not a walk in the park by any means. The whole way up, you have to maneuver your way over big sandstone rocks, like a naturally-placed staircase. However, despite the careful-footing and extremely steep route, it didn't actually seem too terrible. The worst part for me was the wind; there were a few moments where I was sure I was going to be blown off the mountain, all the way to Robben Island. My hands were absolutely frozen, but after a good hour and a half of climbing, we made it!

The "Tablecloth" (cloud cover that often sits on top of the mountain) didn't appear today because of the wind, and the views from the top were spectacular. I had a perfect bird's-eye view of the City Bowl, Camps Bay, Clifton Beach, Hout Bay, and even a fair ways down the Peninsula! Although the wind was brutal, and therefore I didn't spend too long on the top, I was blown away (har har) by the views. I'm so, so glad Binny was willing to do the hike, because it really made my trip! Considering the obstacles in the weather and finding willing participants to hike, I consider myself very lucky that I got to do this on my last day in this amazing city.

Surprisingly, I found going back down the mountain harder than hiking up. Because of the gale-force winds and all the rocks, you had to pay very close attention to each footfall, and each stone step is far enough apart that it's quite a step down, and this was not a place I wanted to take a fall! My knees and hips were a little sore at the end, and my hands were pretty much petrified. Would I ever do it again? Absolutely.

I was very proud of myself for hiking up and back again. From now on, whenever I think of Table Mountain, I'll remember that I was on the top of the table! I also learned that the wind is the main reason the city isn't covered in pollution. They call it the "Cape Doctor".

I'd recommend this hike to anyone! There's a huge sense of fulfillment when you reach the top, and apparently it's not always so windy. Also, I saw a man hiking in bare feet, a bunch of teenagers in Keds, and a woman in a skirt and dress shoes hoofing it to the top. So if they can do it...

For the record, as excited as I am for the rest of my trip, I'm now feeling very bummed out about leaving this city. Cape Town, I love you!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

What Mister WWOOFer Does on Her Days Off

2011-08-12T04:59:00.000-07:00

As I was skimming over the last few blogs I've written, I noticed that I had missed a major part of my trip! My days off from WWOOFing! I hope you don't think that I was worked to death, and never caught a break, because this couldn't be farther from the truth. As a matter of fact, some of the major highlights of my trip took place on the weekends, between painting, building, and baboon chasing.

On Farm 119, weekends are dedicated to getting as much sleep as you possibly can, and usually, only a half-day's work is done. My first weekend there, it was pouring rain, but Kevin and Mila were still game for a hike to the Drupkelders, which is about a half-hour away from the farm. Although it was more or less a torrential downpour, it wasn't actually that cold out, so I decided to join in.

Since the Drupkelders is in the Knysna Forest, it wasn't all that wet once we got under the shelter of the trees. The Knysna Forest has a mysterious, wild feeling that I've never experienced in Canada. The wilderness of it sucks you right in. The first little bit of the hike is flat, but after a while, you reach a downhill, which carries on for a few kilometres. At one point, there's a rope to hold onto as you traverse down the hill! It was quite slippery in the rain, and watching your footing is a must, unless you want to get muddy.

All of the sudden, the hill comes to an end, and you find yourself standing in a huge gorge, which surrounds a river, which is apparently a swimmer's nirvana in warmer weather. There are vines hanging down the sides of the gorge, and the sound of the rushing river combined with the rain definitely gave me the "African Wilderness" idea.
The entire landscape of the Drupkelders was breathtaking, and taking it all in while being sheltered by the gorge was the perfect thing to do on a rainy Sunday. For the record, in warmer, drier weather, the Drupkelders gorge would have made for amazing bouldering!

The hike back up the hill was a little bit more challenging, as the stones were soaked, and I tended to slip every couple of steps. However, I'm still in awe of how beautiful the Drupkelders were...and they were only half an hour away from where I lived! How lucky is that?

I think that I'm still a little bit damp from that hike, and three weeks later, I have a pair of socks that still hasn't quite dried out. However, the scenery of the place was worth soaking through to the bone. Anyone in Rheenendal: take an afternoon and hike to the Drupkelders!

A quick word of caution: never leave a Malarone tablet in your pocket if there's a chance it might get wet, as it will dissolve into yellow mush which gets all over everything, and is a pain in the ass to wash off.

The main event, however, came the following Saturday. I had heard rumors about the Rastafari Earth Festival, and secretly had my fingers crossed that we would go. I lucked out again, as Kevin and Tanya asked me if I would be interested in attending the Knysna Rasta Fest. Uh, yes please!

Although the event didn't start until that evening, I went early with Kevin. He wanted to take some shots of the Knysna Heads before the sun went down, and I went along for the opportunity. For the record, do not miss the Knysna Heads! Watching the sea crash up and down over the rocks while the sun was just starting to set was probably one of the most stunning landscapes I've ever seen in my life. I helped Kevin with some of his shoot...by that I mean I held up a lamp for background lighting. The effect was quite magical.

Afterwards, we headed to the Festival. I expected it to take place right in town, so you can imagine my surprise when we drove into the Khayalethu Township, down narrow, twisting roads until we reached the House of Judah, complete with Bob Marley mural.

For the record, Knysna is home to South Africa's largest Rastafarian community; there about thirty families living peacefully in the Khayalethu Township. I had read about this before coming, but I never imagined that I would actually be entering Judah Square and partying with the community! Definitely one for the old bucket list!

Being in the township only added to the experience for me. I noticed that within the township, there was acutally a fair bit of diversity. My preconceived notion of the townships were a bunch of falling-down shacks, and hard-done-by people (which I'm embarrassed to admit now). As we drove through, however, I noticed that some of the houses were actually decently equipped, the people were beautiful, wearing colourful clothing, the children played a game of soccer, and I noticed teenagers laughing around a fire. Really, this isn't all that different than how people in the white suburbs spend their Saturday nights.

All of the Rastafarian people I met were friendly; I was one of very few white people there, but I felt no judgment. The people were peaceful and gentle, giving me fist bumps (a traditional greeting in their culture), welcoming me, and offering to sell me buds of ganja the size of my head. It was a nice change to be at a gathering like that where there was no belligerence, drunkenness or brawling. Everyone was dancing to the live (awesome) reggae music, there was food and tea, and everyone was smiling and enjoying each other's company.

The Rasta Earth Festival was definitely one of the top travel experiences of my life. It was an unexpected surprise, and a deep look into a very different culture that I'm so glad I got to be a part of!

By the way, the Rastas all called me "Sista Rebecca". Just in case you're interested.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

A Day at the Robben Island Prison Museum

2011-08-11T09:45:00.000-07:00

I will freely admit (a little embarrassingly) that before coming to South Africa, I did not know a single thing about the country's history. The name Nelson Mandela was pretty much the extent of my knowledge, I couldn't accurately summarize Apartheid if you paid me, and I fell asleep during Invictus. In short, I am the worst.

Over the past month that I've been here, I've heard bits and pieces about the Apartheid days from the locals, and I've driven past many townships. I even spent an evening in the Khayalethu township outside of Knysna partying with some Rastas! One of the first sights I saw on my way into Cape Town was Khayelitsha: thousands of tin houses as far as the eye could see, some barely standing. Khaya is South Africa's second largest township, with over a million inhabitants. It's a city in itself, and I couldn't quite get my head around the fact that so many people were living on top of each other from day to day.

Still, I have to admit my knowledge was minimal, something I wanted to change, as I figured my love for South Africa could only deepen with greater knowledge of its history and people.

I felt that visiting Robben Island, a former prison-turned museum and World Heritage Site where many political activists were incarcerated during Apartheid would really give me some insight. I woke up to a very foggy sky and rumors of rain. I immediately panicked, because the ferry to Robben Island is known for cancelling due to rough water or bad weather, and the day didn't look promising.

I lucked out; my ferry was scheduled to leave at 11:00, and when I arrived at the Waterfront, the ferry was there, and the people at the Nelson Mandela Gateway informed me that we were set to go!

A ticket to Robben Island includes a return ferry ride to the island - half an hour each way - a bus tour around the island with commentary, and a tour through the maximum security prison, guided by a former political prisoner. During the ferry ride over, we did pass over some swells, but after the shark boat, it felt like a bit of a joke.

Upon arrival at the island, I learned some background information about the prison. It had been in operation since the early days of the Dutch and British occupation of South Africa. In the beginning, both men and women with mental illnesses were sent to the island and detained there. It also served as a leper colony before becoming a maximum security prison for anyone opposing the Apartheid government. Most, if not all of the inmates were black, coloured, Indian or Asian. There were many escape attempts, but very, very few success stories. After feeling the freezing water around Cape Town, and meeting the sharks firsthand, I understood why escaping was near impossible.

The prison was in operation until the early 1990s. The last prisoners were taken off the island and sent elsewhere not long after Mandela made his famous speech in 1990.

The bus tour took us around to different sites on the island I did not know about, such as the lime quarry, which prisoners were forced to dig with hand tools such as picks or spades. Because of the bright sun reflecting off the rock, many prisoners suffered partial blindness after time. We visited a church built by the lepers, and the graveyard of Irish settlers who had left their country because of the potato famine, and taken up residence at Robben Island.

The tour guide on the bus was full to the brim of information about Robben Island's history, and made jokes about all the tourists' home countries. She asked the Belgians if they had brought any chocolate, the Americans which state was better: California or Florida, me - the solitary Canadian - when hockey season started, and requested that the Dutch tourists not colonize South Africa again. A fair enough request. It was nice to start the tour with laughter from all parties.

After the whirlwind bus tour, we entered the maximum security prison, and were met by our guide, who had been an inmate during the 1980s. He told stories of his own past. He was arrested, tortured, and thrown in prison. He spent six out of eight years at Robben Island working in the kitchen. He also showed us an example of a prisoner identification card, and read the ranks of the prison: black people were at the very bottom.

I feel that having a former prisoner give the tour was ingenious; I definitely got an insiders' look at the maximum security prison! Although I never got the guide's name, I admire his bravery to coming back to a place where he faced such hardship in order to tell his story to people like me who really can't even imagine such conditions.

The highlight for me, almost needless to say, was walking past Nelson Mandela's former cell. It was a tiny area, among many others, which had housed leaders of opposition parties. It contained a small mat that had been used as a bed, and a bucket - in lieu of a toilet. Another highlight was seeing the pile of stones in front of the limestone quarry. This was where former prisoners held a reunion, and piled the stones in order to symbolize their experience.

One complaint I have about the tour is that we weren't allowed to get off the bus very often, and the whole bus tour felt very rushed. If we spent too long trying to take pictures out the window, the tour guide would become irritable. I understand that there was a schedule, but I personally would have liked to have time to actually experience such an amazing place before being whisked off to the next point on the tour.

Despite the atrocities and indignities suffered at Robben Island, I still felt a sense of hope as I left. I simply look at the people I have met in South Africa, and see that they are making the most of life as it is today. Our guide, who had suffered Apartheid, had come back to Robben Island, willing to share his experience, in order to educate people from around the world. The courage and optimism of the South African people is stunning.

If you're looking for something to do in Cape Town that does not involve sharks or surfing, I strongly recommend Robben Island. It's informative, unbelievable, and essential to understanding the country's stormy past. You may even spot a penguin or two.

"The journey's never long when freedom's the destination."

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Sand and Surf, All in One Glorious South African Day

2011-08-10T08:56:00.000-07:00

As I type this, my arms are seizing up from excessive paddling in massive swells, and my knees are all raw from skidding down sand dunes all morning. Nevertheless, I am above and beyond happy! Since I promised my poor mom that I would not partake in any more shark-related activities, I moved on to the second phase of must-do activities Cape Town has to offer: a sandboarding and surfing combo!

Once again, Downhill Adventures completely outdid themselves, providing incredible locations, well-kept-up gear, and an amazing guide, who made the experience fun and definitely memorable. My hat's off to Jerry at Downhill! Hilarious, encouraging, patient and knows the crap out of surfing...if you ever find yourself doing this tour in Cape Town, ask for him!

At 10:00am, I arrived at the Downhill Adventures office, and learned that I was in fact, the only person going on the tour that day! Apparently in winter, not as many people sign up because they don't want to brave the cold water. I can tell you firsthand that when you're trying to maneuver through three or four foot swells in a wetsuit, you're anything but cold.

The first half of the day was sandboarding. I learned that Downhill Adventures is the only company in Cape Town that uses actual snowboards, boots and bindings as opposed to a piece of wood with foot-loops. The technique of sandboarding is similar to snowboarding. If you want more speed, stand flat on your board instead of carving with your edges. That's pretty much the only difference. However, the actual feel of sandboarding is way, way different. The sand doesn't pack down as well as snow, and if you hit a bump that you aren't anticipating, you will take a dive! The sand gets absolutely everywhere, and the guides actually rent you boots about a half-size too big to compensate for the sand!

I also found that after each run, you need to re-wax your board, or the sand will clump on the bottom, and you won't go anywhere. I found this out the hard way, as I was flying down a particularly steep dune, stopped out of nowhere, and toppled over sideways. I sort of wish I could have seen myself.

After each run, you have to walk all the way back to the top of the dune! I can't imagine doing it in the summer, as Jerry was telling stories about walking up in fifty degree heat! Although the hike to the top is rather painful, sandboarding is a total blast! Altantis, where the dunes are located, is more or less a mini-desert about forty-five minutes out of Cape Town. There is a perfect view of Table Mountain in the distance, and since today was clear, without a cloud in the sky, it felt like someone had placed a backdrop there!

After a few hours of sandboarding, we had a break for lunch, and then headed to Big Bay. Although it isn't as much of a surfer's paradise as Muizenberg, Jerry explained that it was a safer beach, the swells were more predictable, and it was shark free! This sounded good to me, as I prefer sharks from the safety of a cage.

The swells were a little bit bigger than anticipated, but I actually found this a little bit easier to gain the momentum to stand up. Yes, friends, I did stand up. More often than not. I'm surprised too.

Dragging a surfboard over massive swells, having to lift the front and jump the wave every few seconds, and then turn the board around is quite rough on the arms. Especially if you lack any sort of upper-body strength, like me! At the end of the day, I felt a bit like a wet noodle, but a happy one. Apparently South Africa boasts some of the best surfing in the world, and I'm very proud to say that I've experienced it!

The surf/sandboard combo is quite decently priced, and you bake in the sun all morning sliding down sand dunes, and then cool off in the afternoon. It's the perfect day trip, and can almost guarantee a good night's sleep. I strongly recommend it!

For the record, I'm now considering just staying in Cape Town forever and becoming a surf bum. Fair warning.

Once again, a massive thanks to Downhill Adventures for an unforgettable day!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Sorry Mom...I Went Shark Diving

2011-08-09T08:34:00.000-07:00

Before I start this blog, I would like to wish an embarrassingly late happy birthday to my incredible Grama, who I truly consider the inspiration for this trip. Ever since I saw her pictures of South Africa almost fifteen years ago, I've known that one day, I would end up here. I'm having the time of my life, and if it weren't for you, I don't know if I'd have made it. I love you!

This morning, I found myself wide awake and raring to go at the very early hour of 5:00am. This was because after a year of waiting, today was the day I was finally going to climb into a steel cage and be immersed into shark-infested waters. Today was the long-awaited shark cage dive!

Since a family friend recommended the cage dive as a must in Cape Town over a year ago, I haven't had any doubt in my mind about it. I know for a fact that a lot of people at home think that I'm a crazy person for even thinking about it, but I can now tell you first hand: when in Cape Town, DO NOT MISS IT!

It is by no means cheap to do a shark dive. I paid about R1400 (roughly $230), but keep in mind that this included transport from my hostel to Gansbaai (two hours away from Cape Town), breakfast before the dive, lunch after the dive, snacks on the boat, and most importantly, the once-in-a-lifetime experience of looking Great White sharks in the eye!

The drive to Gansbaai is stunning. The mountains combined with green orchards and farmland as far as the eye can see are quite effective at calming a person down, even though the occasional glimpses you get of the ocean and its huge swells definitely bring the adrenaline up again!

Before the dive, I had heard horror stories about violent sea-sickness, and when I arrived, there was a notice saying that the water was 12 degrees! At this point, sharks were the least of my worries.

After popping some Gravol, and eating a quick breakfast - which I tried to balance between nutrition and not eating so much I would vomit on the boat - our guide Anthony gave us a briefing about what to do in case of the boat sinking (God forbid), and then told us some interesting facts about the sharks. For example, they lure the sharks with a bait that is basically the blood and guts of fish, so they are attracted to the scent, but there's no food for them, so they aren't trained to chase boats in the future. We were also told that while the bait was in the vicinity, the sharks could not care less about us in the cage. Although they do have good eyesight, so they would be able to see us!

Finally, we walked down to the boat. It was so windy that I was afraid of being blown right off the pier. I had stupidly checked the weather report in Cape Town instead of Gansbaai, and as a result, worn shorts. I don't know if I've ever been so cold in my life.

The boat ride started out over huge swells (I would guess they were 6 - 8 feet). It felt like being on a very wet, trecherous roller coaster. My stomach was doing a weird sort of Irish jig. After about three minutes of this, the water either smoothed out, or my Gravol kicked in like a champion, because I was able to enjoy the ride out, and did not get seasick.

For almost an hour, we sat in the bay by Dyer Island with the crew doing their darndest to lure the sharks. They had a sort of foam decoy (which would probably look like a seal to the average Great White), as well as the fish blood and guts on a rope. I also noticed a man at the back mixing more blood and guts together with a shovel, and then splashing it behind the boat. Let me just say that shark bait is the absolute worst.

At this point, I was starting to panic a little bit. What if no sharks showed up? I had waited for so long, and I was dying to see a great white! I know it would be circumstances beyond anyone's control, but I knew I would be disappointed. And then...

...SHARK! A baby Great White swam out of nowhere and all but launched itself at the foam decoy! The people on the boat erupted, and all but shoved each other off the sides to get a picture. Since I had been wedged right by the side since the beginning, I had the prime spot. Gradually, more and more sharks started appearing. It wasn't a Jaws-esque circle or anything, but every few minutes, one would lazily snap at the bait, and then go back to whatever it was doing first. Now, I know this is needless to say, but sharks are BIG! A few of them that passed by were easily four metres long! Interestingly, the smaller sharks were more keen on jumping for the bait, whereas the giants just passed on by.

Upon the arrival of the sharks, the crew started putting people in the cage. It was freezing cold, but hell could freeze over before I decided against getting into that cage! Myself and seven other people put wetsuits on, and were instructed to climb over the side of the boat into the cage. At first, I didn't realize that there was a bar in the cage to put one's feet, and I had a terrifying moment where my right foot floated through the bars.

Once I was in the cage, I actually felt pretty safe. There were bars to hang onto, and we weren't completely submerged; whenever a shark would swim by, we would hold our breath and duck to the bottom of the cage. It was definitely a rush when one of the crew members would yell, "DOWN! RIGHT!" And we would all duck under the water, look to the right, and watch one of the sharks drift - literally - in front of our faces.

Remember when I said the big ones didn't jump so much? There were a few exceptions. One more than the others. About a minute after I got into the cage, one of the biggest sharks I saw the entire time jumped at the bait, landing on the cage for a split second, which shook it with the force of a truck. For a moment, I was completely stunned. When the seven other divers in the cage with me came up, we were all whooping! A shark had jumped on us! Top that!

I was lucky enough to take two turns in the cage. The second time, I was on the far right side, and at one point found myself eye-to-eye with a Great White! I still have the shivers. I had been so worried about not seeing any of them, and within the course of about four or five hours, I had seen tons of them, both from the deck and in the cage. It was a lucky day for shark-viewing.

I found this trip exhilarating, educational, and all-round amazing. It was definitely one for my bucket list, and probably one of the best travel experiences of my life! Massive props to Downhill Adventures, Anthony and the crew, and I suppose the sharks themselves (even though I'm still feeling a bit of ocean motion as I type this). The shark cage dive was truly an incredible experience beyond words.

I would also like to say a massive, massive thanks to my amazing boyfriend Myles for the camera! Not only did it work perfectly under water, but I now have a video of a 4-metre shark going right by the cage!

Oh, and for the record, I'm typing this blog with all of my fingers, and I walked to the computer on both legs. Just so you know.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms?
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

About Time for a New Post, Eh?

2011-07-29T06:11:00.001-07:00

For the past week, the power has been very low at Farm 119, and therefore, Internet use has been very minimal. But don't worry, my faithful followers! I'm back!

Since Farm 119 relies on solar power in order to power the farm, using water, turning on lights and other such activities has to be done with discretion. Actually, it's pretty amazing how they've managed to rely almost solely on solar power and rainwater for basic needs. Once you get your head around adamantly turning off lights and taps, it's really not so bad. As long as you have a trusty headlamp and a good book, once the work is done, evenings on the farm without power are pretty awesome. I can't remember being so relaxed after work...ever.

On the farm front, I've mainly been working on building a path to the shed I helped build and paint. In Bibby's Hoek, when it rains, it pours...literally. It rained nonstop Sunday and Monday, and as we speak, I've still been sliding around in the mud while working. My boots are nothing short of caked in mud every day after work. The solution: put down small stones in front of the shed to keep the mud away. As far as laying the stones down, I have also lined up tyres around Tanya's greenhouse, filled them with soil, put a top-layer of stones, and planted an aloe plant in the middle (for aesthetic value). The effect is actually quite attractive. And it keeps the cows and chickens out. Bonus.

I've been working on filling tyres and making the path since Tuesday. My limbs are beyond sore, but I feel a huge sense of accomplishment...there are no machines to help me out, so when I look at all the work I've done, I'm reminded that I've done it all by hand. I've never done work like this before, and I have to admit, I'm quite proud of what I've done in the two weeks I've been here...sore muscles notwithstanding.

Today I had to dig out fenceposts so that I could transport them to the path I'm building, dig a shallow trench, and place them around the outside. A pickaxe, shovel, three rusty nails and a very sore left hand later, I was able to knock it out of the ground, drag it across the farm, and put it in place outside the shed. I would be lying to you if I said I hadn't thought about giving up. But when that sucker finally came out of the ground, I was fist pumping for joy! Sometimes you really don't know your own strength. It's just a matter of time before I'm sending out pictures of myself flexing in the mirror. WWOOFing is one of the most fulfilling things I've ever done.

Tomorrow is finally a weekend...I can sleep in all the way until 9:00am, and I've heard talk of possibly going on an outing to the Knysna Rastafari Festival. My fingers are way, way crossed.

As for now, I'm going to go see about a shower. I can't see my legs for all the mud covering them. It's hard to believe that I only have a week left on the farm! As excited as I am to see more of South Africa, it's going to be very hard to leave. This feels like home.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Farming in South Africa: Part Two

2011-07-20T08:41:00.000-07:00

As we speak, I am completely and totally bagged! My day started at 7:00 this morning (as the last five days on the farm have), I'm starting to feel slightly geriatric, what with all of the rise-with-the-sun/go-to-bed-at-8:00 I've been doing lately. Seriously. I've been asleep by 8:00 at night. I'm adapting to the farm life way more quickly than I thought I would.

My host family has been nothing but accommodating. Tanya and Kevin are always friendly, and never fail to remind me to feel at home! Yes, this means full-on access to the fridge. Mila thinks that I have been brought in as her personal attendant (and I've considered hiding in dark corners in order to have a minute of peace). Still, she's a spunky little thing, and will probably rule the world one day. I wouldn't have it any other way. Luke always has a massive smile on his face; he loves Lego, and ever more, his parents' iPad. He can't remember my name, so he's resorted to calling me "Hey, let's go play Lego!" "Woman!" or "Mister WWOOFer!" Yup. Mister.

Today, I finished painting the shed, and then moved on to the daunting task of weeding the flower garden. I'm pretty sure the weeding will never end, as every time I turn around, there seem to be more and more growing out of the nooks and crannies I could swear I checked.

Although it's definitely hard physical labour, I'm really enjoying being outside. Today was in the mid-twenties, and I was able to work in a tank top. Take that, middle of winter! I'm pretty sure "winter" in Rheenendal is still warmer than "summer" in Calgary. I'm not sure how I feel about this.

Halfway through m y long, drawn out weeding process, I heard the dogs start barking their heads off. I looked up just in tim e to see about five baboons dash through the field and onto the roof of the neighbours' shed! Baboons, for the record, are freakin' huge! I was tempted to move in closer to get a better look, but was reminded of a warning in my guidebook about their razor-sharp teeth and tendency to attack people if they saw fit. Needless to say, I had second thoughts. Maybe next time. In the mean time, it was quite entertaining to see the two least-ferocious looking dogs in South Africa doing their best to intimidate the baboons into staying on the roof. Only in South Africa.

I'm really enjoying the farm work. Although it's definitely full of physical jobs, I love being outside, and I feel like the work I'm doing is actually beneficial i n some way, shape or form. It's nice to have a job where I don't feel like dead wood. I work all morning, get an hour break for the most delicious lunches ever, and then work a few more hours in the afternoon. Between then and dinner, I actually get some time to myself. I can usually be found exploring with my camera, writing, or most likely, wrestling w ith the dogs.

Right now, I'm counting down the minutes until dinner is ready. After that, I'll probably be heading back to my room, and shortly to sleep. I really can't complain.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

And So It Begins...

2011-07-18T06:32:00.000-07:00

I've only been in South Africa for three days (not counting the eight-hour, hair-pulling layover in Jo'burg), but it feels like it's been forever. This isn't a bad thing. After flying an agonizing eight hours to Amsterdam, another twelve hours to Johannesburg, and then waiting for eight hours in the OR Tambo Airport, I was starting to feel like I would never get here.

Upon arriving in Jo'burg, there is loud, traditional African music playing, which got me all pumped up (or delerious after the flight...take your pick). It felt like a big, exciting "WELCOME TO AFRICA!" Unfortunately, this was short lived, as I realized very quickly that I was stuck in the airport, the lights were being dimmed, the shops were closed, and there are only hard, metal benches, so try as I might, I could not get to sleep.

Finally -FINALLY - 5:00am came, and I was able to board my flight to Cape Town. Let me just add that this two hour flight felt like a joke next to the last couple of flights I've been on. The sun was a gigantic, bright red ball in the sky, and it was coming up just as we were taking off. I think this was the moment when it hit me: I was in Africa!!

The sky was clear with barely a cloud in sight as we landed in Cape Town, and right out my window, I could see Table Mountain, and right next to it, the ocean. Before leaving, I had googled dozens - nay, hundreds - of pictures of this exact sight, but I can't even describe what it was like to see it appearing before my eyes.

When I got off the plane, I had a minor panic: the Backpacker Bus, a super handy service, where travellers are picked up at the airport and dropped safely at their hostel, did not appear to have arrived. I wandered around, looking at all the people holding signs, and could not find my name. For what was probably realistically two minutes, I paced back and forth, wracking my brain for who I could call and coming up with nothing, when I turned around, almost knocking over a man with my backpack. And yes, his sign said - in big bold letters nonetheless - my name. I guess I should learn to read properly before taking off on another big trip.

After arriving at Penthouse on Long, a hostel on Long Street, Cape Town's main backpacker district, I decide to take a shower, as I had been doing nothing but plane-hopping for the last three days. I unpacked, only to find that I had managed to buy two shampoos and no conditioner. Well, I now had a mission! I asked the front desk staff where the best place to find said hair product was. Let me just say that not only is Penthouse on Long a funky place to stay in a very populated (and therefore safe) area of Cape Town, but the front staff are friendly, and know everything. More on them later.

After buying my conditioner, and scouting out a place to eat dinner (The Long Street Cafe - best margherita pizza EVER), I retreated to the hostel, and asked the man at the front desk what the best way to get to the bus station was. After all, I was leaving at 6:00am to head to Knysna, the town closest to Farm 119, where I'm WWOOFing for three weeks. Although the bus station wasn't far, I had my doubts about walking that early in the morning. The man at the desk told me that taking a taxi would be the fastest way, and he promised that he would call the cab for me, and have the driver come up to get me so I would know which cab to get into. He then told me all of the things to do in Cape Town, and was very excited to hear that I was returning in a few weeks. I will definitely be back!

I then went to bed. At 6:30pm. I hate jet lag.

The next morning, bright and early, I showed up at the front desk, and the man called my cab (I should really get names, eh?). Within five minutes, my ride was there, and I was taken to the bus station. The driver made sure that I got inside alright, and apart from the pesky porter who really, really wanted to carry my bag (and subsequently, a tip), I had made it. The bus was already there, so all I had to do was load my bag, and take a seat.

I would definitely recommend the Intercape bus service for anyone travelling in South Africa. They were safe and efficient. Although after the buses in Southeast Asia, that could be said about pretty much any bus line. The prayer at the beginning of the trip, and the Christian programming for the entire eight-hour duration of my bus trip was a little surprising for this Jewish travel writer, but like I said before, as long as I'm safe, I can put up with a little Gospel. I always have my iPod...

I'm now sitting comfortably in the office of GORGEOUS Farm 119, in Bibby's Hoek, in the Rheenendal district, just outside of Knysna. The air is clear, and there are 360 degrees of million dollar views. Kevin and Tanya, as well as Mila and Luke, their children, have made me feel more than welcome right off the bat. So far I have been fed home-grown vegetarian food right out of my wildest dreams, met their two dogs (Mushroom and Fettucine), who guard my room whenever I go in, and have helped build a shed, and today, I painted it. I just love being able to work outside all day!

There was a bit of a communication breakdown when I first arrived, and my host family and I missed each other at the bus station. However, the man at the bus station walked me to a hostel in Knysna (just around the corner from the station), and made sure I got in safe. The staff at the hostel was friendly, and helped me get in contact with my host family. Everyone I met in Knysna went out of their way to make sure I was safe during my stay, and I am more than grateful. The people I've met so far in South Africa are some of the friendliest, most genuine people I've ever met - at home or while travelling!

Yesterday morning, Kevin came to get me first thing, and drove me to the farm. The views on the drive were breathtaking. I'm becoming one of those nerds who takes pictures out of windows. I wouldn't have it any other way!

Which brings me to today: my first day on a self-sufficient, off-the-grid farm. I could definitely get used to this! As for now, my painting is done, and I think I'm going to relax with 'On the Road' before dinner. Good travel book, no?

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

So...What Did I Learn in Southeast Asia?

2011-05-06T20:42:00.000-07:00

1. Successfully crossing a road in Ho Chi Minh City makes you feel like Rambo.

2. After seeing S-21 and The Killing Fields, your moto driver will ask if you want to go to the shooting range. It's okay to say no.

3. Being constantly covered in a full layer of grime is the great equalizer among travellers.

4. The ubiquitous "Same Same But Different" slogan on t-shirts applies to everything...from guesthouses to food to ladyboys.

5. The worst bathroom in Canada is shangri-la compared to the nicest one in Laos or Cambodia.

6. Kids in Cambodia know some very colourful language.

7. Canadians have to pay an outrageous amount for a Lao visa.

8. A tuk-tuk driver proposing? Not so uncommon.

9. Menus and signs have hilarious typos.

10. Gorging oneself on Pad Thai is not frowned upon.

11. Estheticians are trained in arm-to-arm combat.

12. Squat toilets should be made illegal.

13. All the backpackers are reading Shantaram.

14. Moto drivers will earnestly offer you a ride, and then whisper almost seductively in your ear "Marijuana??" Laughing and walking away is okay.

15. You will meet genuinely friendly locals who you wish would adopt you.

16. Listening to the Woodstock soundtrack while taking a bus up the coast of Vietnam makes for an entertaining ride.

17. When it rains in Laos, everyone hunkers down in restaurants or bars to watch Friends or Family Guy reruns.

18. When you mention that you're from Canada, people will ask if you know Justin Bieber.

19. If you're sitting at a cafe waiting for breakfast, and you witness the chef chasing a stray dog out of the kitchen, don't be alarmed. Your omelette will probably still be fine.

20. When tuk-tuk drivers in Bangkok start making clicking and popping noises at you, that is their way of inviting you to a ping-pong show. Proceed with caution.

21. Leaving is very, very hard to do.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all.
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The End of Laos, and the Second Round of Thailand

2011-03-24T03:07:00.001-07:00

I'm back in northern Thailand after a whirlwind through Laos.

After Luang Prabang, most of the people from the Spicylaos Hostel travelled to Vang Vieng together, so that we could partake in the infamous tubing. I would just like to say that the Spicylaos crew consisted of some of the most amazing and fun travel mates I've ever met. Rock on guys!

My last day in Luang Prabang was quite rainy and cold (for Laos anyway). Since we wanted to go to Vang Vieng anyway, we decided that the next day would be a perfect time to leave: escape the rain, and get our tubing on.

How very, very wrong we were.

There were about fifteen of us shoved into a minivan, and without warning, we headed south, down a snaking, muddy, sometimes-overflowing road. Because the road conditions in Laos are famous for being terrible, the minibus hardly ever accelerated over fifty kilometres per hour. After a while, my legs had completely cramped up, and I was ready to start walking.

We finally arrived in Vang Vieng. Now, normally, Vang Vieng is a happening little town, full of backpackers, lively bars and of course, hundreds upon hundreds of people tubing down the Nam Song river. Unfortunately, when we arrived, the town was completely deserted, because there was torrential rain, and the weather was around twelve degrees. What do you do in Vang Vieng when the weather is unnaturally awful, you ask? Well, the answer is to hang out with your mates in one of the thousands of restaurants that play reruns of Friends or Family Guy during the day, and at night, spend some time bar-hopping, while dressed in a sodden raincoat, and try to forget how cold and miserable you are.

I'm going to be honest, I'm pretty upset that I didn't get the chance to go tubing. That was definitely one of the parts of my trip that I was looking forward to the most. However, I can honestly say that I didn't have a terrible time in Vang Vieng. I owe it all to the group that I was travelling with. Had I been alone, I would have jumped on the first bus out of there. But hanging around with other waterlogged travellers actually proved to be quite a fun and memorable time. As for the tubing, I guess I'll just have to go back one day. Man life is rough!

The Spicylaos Hostel in Vang Vieng is more or less a bamboo shack. I think that if the weather was sunny, it would have been one of the most awesome places to stay that I've been so far. Unfortunately, because it was freezing, I was too afraid to roll over, lest my blanket would move. I'd suggest checking the weather before booking into this place.

The second night, Reena and I returned from a five-hour Friends marathon, only to discover that everyone else had relocated. We were the only two left at Spicylaos. I refuse to believe that we are anything less than badass.

After two days in Vang Vieng, we realized that the weather wasn't going to get any better for a couple of days, and the combination of being in a time crunch as well as not being able to bear any more of the cold, Reena, Adam and I decided to bite the bullet and head to Chiang Mai.

The trip to Chiang Mai from Vang Vieng took us about twenty-three hours. We were loaded onto a decent bus to Vientiane, where we transferred to an older, creaky bus that lacked any shock absorbers, which would take us over the border. Luckily, the journey from Vientiane to Udon Thani isn't too terribly long. I was anticipating another shaky, disorganized border crossing, but like Cambodia to Vietnam, it was short, sweet and to the point. Now all my border crossings are complete, and only Thailand to Cambodia was a complete crapshoot!

In Udon Thani, we transferred to the nicest bus I've ever been on. The seats reclined, I could move my legs more than an inch at a time, and - most importantly - we were given food and coffee! I would definitely suggest weaseling your way onto a VIP bus in Thailand if you get the chance. They do not disappoint.

We arrived in Chiang Mai fairly early the next morning, and decided that after days at a time stuck in the mud and the rain, we wanted to find a guesthouse and shower. We checked into the conveniently located A Little Bird, which had clean rooms, and was only $3.50 a night!

Trekking, rafting and elephant-related activities are definitely the main pull to Chiang Mai. After walking around the city all day, I felt that I had more or less seen everything in Chiang Mai that I wanted to see. The night market is definitely worth a go, and the food is pretty fantastic, but two days in the city itself are really all you need.

On our first night, we had heard people at the hostel talking about seeing a Muy Thai fight, and we figured that it would be worth a go. The fight turned out to be in a seedy-looking ring surrounded by bars. Although I would have been terrified to be there alone, being in the company of others made it a rather hilarious experience. The people watching was worth every baht.

The fights began with a match between two kids who looked to be about twelve, and went from there. After a while, I felt that I was seeing a show as opposed to an actual sporting event. It was just as well when we left.

After Chiang Mai, Adam and I headed to Pai, which I had only heard good things about. The coffee shops, bamboo huts and dreadlocked locals are definitely reminiscent of the hippie trail. There are quite a few waterfalls to head to during the day to beat the forty-degree heat, and at night, there are little bars open, mostly featuring cover bands.

Pretty much everything around Pai is accessible by motorbike. Because I had never ridden a motorbike in my life, and on top of that, had to deal with driving on the left side of the road, I was quite terrified. But I can assure you that after a few minutes it's really not so bad. We wanted to head to a waterfall that was marked on the map, but en route, we were told that it was only accessible by foot, and it was three hours each way. Because the day was almost too hot, we decided to head to a different place. Although it wasn't as amazing as the waterfall in Luang Prabang, it was a nice place to chill out for a few hours, and watch local teens continually slide down the falls - something I'm sure I'd break a bone or two if I tried.

I really liked Pai. After Chiang Mai, it was nice to kick back and enjoy some time in a small, chilled out place. I had heard from quite a few people that it's easy to get attached to Pai and don't want to leave. I definitely understand where they're coming from. One day, I just may be one of the old hippies hanging out in Pai. I can only hope, really.

I'm now back in Chiang Mai. I think I'm going to do a trek tomorrow, and then after that, I need to figure out what I want to do. I need to be back in Bangkok by the end of the month so that I can fly home. I don't believe it!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Lovely, Lovely Laos

2011-03-15T02:01:00.000-07:00

At the moment, I'm sitting in the World Heritage town of Luang Prabang, Laos. Prior to my arrival, I had heard only good things about Luang Prabang: the people were genuine and friendly, the prices were out-of-this-world cheap, and the surroundings were breathtakingly beautiful. Well, my friends, I can now personally tell you that these are all massive understatements. Although I hate picking favorites, Luang Prabang just might be my favorite place that I've travelled to...ever. Top five, anyway.

Before gushing on about Laos, and the last leg of Vietnam - which I will do, so fear not -I forgot to mention one of the highlights of Hanoi in my last blog! Believe it or not, I gave the traditional water puppet show a go...and liked it! The tradition was started by rice farmers in the 1100s, and has carried on since then. I'll admit that I was a little bit apprehensive to see the show, as I was expecting a lame, slightly creepy It's a Small World-esque atmosphere. However, I decided to try it out, since it is one of northern Vietnam's most famous attractions, and it only cost me $3. I was pleasantly surprised! The musicians wore traditional northern Vietnamese costumes, and played wicked-sounding traditional instruments. The theatre was well constructed, with a set of palm trees, a backdrop of a traditional northern Vietnamese home, and a large pool of water. The puppets were worked quite professionally, portraying Vietnamese customs such as picking coconuts, dragon parades, and rice farming, and set to an amazing soundtrack. The dragon puppets shot water...I thought that was pretty awesome! Altogether, I would suggest going to a water puppet show if you ever find yourself in Hanoi. It's inexpensive, fun, and not as lame as you would think...I promise!

After two days in Hanoi, I took a night bus to the hill-tribe village of Sapa. All of the travellers I've met who had been to Sapa raved about how beautiful it was, so spending a few days in town wasn't even a question for me. It's home to a large handicraft market, villagers who wear colorful costumes, rice fields and Fanispan, Vietnam's highest peak. Unfortunately, my two days in the mountain town weren't quite as ideal as I had hoped. Upon arrival, the temperature had dropped significantly, causing me to trade my shorts and tank top for long pants, running shoes and layers! The temperature was about eight degrees at most, which is freezing in Vietnam. The locals were all bundled up in North Face parkas, and none of the buildings seemed to have heating systems - although my guesthouse had heated mattress covers. They was truly heaven-sent. The fog was so thick that I could only see about twenty feet in front of me at a time, making it difficult to figure out where I was going, and ruling out any chances of seeing the mountains and terraced rice fields. It was quite disappointing.

But somehow, Sapa became one of my favorite destinations in Southeast Asia. The ambience of walking around a tiny mountain town in the fog is actually quite relaxing. The markets sold amazing crafts and jewellery, some of which I'm bringing home with me. And the food was absolutely delicious! I indulged in one of the most fantastic wood-fire pizzas I've ever tried. If you find yourself in Sapa, I strongly suggest trying the Nature Bar and Grill or the Sapa Lotus Restaurant. It has the same feeling of sitting in a mountain lodge in Banff, but you only pay a fraction of the price for the food!

After the aggressive hawkers in Sihanoukville, I was a little gun-shy to venture out in a market by myself...one death threat is enough for my trip, thank you very much. However, the methods of selling in Sapa were completely different. They take a gentler, more calm approach, and instead of selling manicures, and leg waxes performed in front of the whole beach, they sell homemade bags, jewellery and other little doodads that a person might actually want to spend money on! When I first arrived in Sapa, I accumulated an entourage of hill-tribe women, who followed me silently to my guesthouse. I did run into two women who convinced me to buy purses from them. We agreed on a decent price, and I think that I made their day. The locals were so genuinely friendly in Sapa, and I felt very safe. It was also nice to be able to say no without being hassled. If you smile, say "No thank you", and keep walking, the women will follow you for a little while, and then get the picture and move on. Definitely a step up from having scissors held in my face!

After two days, I had to say goodbye to Sapa. I really wish that the skies had been clearer so that I could have seen the amazing surroundings, but I guess I'll just have to come back one day!

I took a night bus to Hanoi, where I caught a ride to the airport. I had originally considered putting myself through the treacherous, twenty-five hour bus ride from Hanoi to Luang Prabang, just for the experience, but because of my time crunch, I made the decision to fly. The flight cost $185, which was expensive, but since it saved me a whole day, I reasoned that it was a fair trade. The Hanoi airport isn't huge, but no one speaks much English, and all of the signs seemed to say "domestic terminal". I was feeling a little bit panicky, so I took my e-ticket to one of the kiosks and pointed frantically, only to recieve a huge smile from the lady working there. She told me in broken English that I was in the right place, and could check in in twenty minutes. Phew!

A tip: if you decide to make this flight, go with Lao Airlines. They have friendly staff, and although it's a short, hour-long flight, they'll feed you!

When I arrived in the Luang Prabang Airport (one tiny terminal), I was directed right to immigration, where I got my Lao visa in a matter of minutes, and then was able to get my bag and take a cab ($2 from the airport) to my hostel. I couldn't help noticing that the visa fee for Canadians was by far the most expensive. It cost me $42. I really want to know what Canada ever did to have to pay so much! On the bright side, that's it for visas, as I don't need one when I re-enter Thailand. Like I said, phew!

Luang Prabang is magical. There is no other way to put it. The Spicylaos hostel, a UNESCO Heritage house, isn't as hostel-y as I expected, but it is definitely one of the most social places I've stayed. I've met tons of friendly people, which is one of my main priorities as a solo traveller. The town is so quiet and laid-back, especially after two weeks in Vietnam! It has French architecture, and tons of delicious bakeries, cafes and fruit shake stands line the main street. Not far away from the hostel is the Mekong River, where you can sit at an outdoor cafe and have a delicious meal for ridiculously low prices. I just finished a pad Thai an hour ago, and I'm considering going back later. If you're a penny-pincher like me, you can head to the food market. Every night at about 5:30, food vendors set up stalls where you can pay 10, 000 kip (about $1.20), and help yourself to all sorts of veggies and noodles. The idea is to fill your plate as full as you can, and then get the vendors to fry it together with hot sauce. Delicious! I've been three nights in a row. The Beerlao is also cheap, and tons of travellers hang out here for dinner.

The main street also shuts down about this time for the infamous night market. You can buy pretty much everything here, from t-shirts to unique textiles and handicrafts. I did a fair bit of shopping the other night. It's easy to barter the prices, although every once in a while they offer such a good price that you don't even need to!

Today it rained, so a group of six of us from the hostel decided to head to the Red Cross for a Lao massage. It was totally worth it! It cost about $5 for an hour, and the money goes to legitimate causes. My back feels a lot better now! I'm ready to carry my ever-expanding backpack!

Yesterday, we took a day-trip to a waterfall outside of town. Although the trip out was a little rough (about an hour sitting in a tuk-tuk driving over bumpy dirt roads), the scenery was totally worth it. The countryside was unbelievably stunning, and it was interesting to see non-touristy towns, where people were just living their day-to-day lives.

It cost 20, 000 kip to see the waterfall ($1.20 Canadian). It was a quick walk through a park. En route, you pass a bear protection centre...and I saw two sun bears playing! I stayed and watched for a while...they were so cute, although it made me miss my dog. The centre was set up to protect different species of bears from poaching. The area was spacious, and I was glad to see that in countries outside of North America, there was still effort put towards protecting animals.

The waterfall was just what the doctor ordered on a hot day. The water was sapphire blue, and you could swing on a rope out of a tree and jump in, or jump from a rock into the pool below. The water was colder than I expected, and very refreshing. It felt like a jungle oasis in a movie. I had been debating whether or not I wanted to go. Taking the trip was definitely a good call!

Tomorrow, I'm leaving Luang Prabang, and heading to Vang Vieng, home of the infamous tubing. I wouldn't mind staying in Luang Prabang forever, but I'm excited to try some tubing, and see more of Laos!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The Second Saga of Vietnam

2011-03-08T16:38:00.000-08:00

Before I start, I'd like to make a birthday shout-out to my friend Steph: HAPPY 21!!! Enjoy your day fully! Wish I could be there...I'm thinking about you today!

Believe it or not, my travels in Vietnam are almost over! This is a bit of a bittersweet feeling for me, because I'm dying to get to Laos, but I've gotten pretty attached to this heavily-contrasted country, especially the northern part. Right now, I'm in Hanoi again, and tonight I take a night bus to the mountain village of Sapa. This is where you can buy unique handicrafts, walk among terraced rice fields, and view the hill tribes walking around in retro-esque garb.

After a day in Hoi An, I decided that it was time to move on. It would have been awesome to get some tailor-made shoes and clothing, but I was told that it would take a few days, and alas, I didn't have the time. It was a nice place to chill out for a day after the utter chaos of Saigon. I enjoyed walking through the narrow streets, among French colonial architecture, without worrying too much about being run down, or having my bag snatched by a moto-bandit. I also had the best baguette sandwich of my life!

Unfortunately, guesthouses in Hoi An aren't super cheap, unless you have a buddy, and at this point, I was completely solo. For me, Hoi An was more of a halfway point between Saigon and northern Vietnam, where most of the places I wanted to see were.

I booked a trip from Hoi An to Hanoi, which would stop halfway in Hue, where I would switch to a sleeper bus. The bus from Hanoi seemed to lack any sort of shock absorber, and I was fortunate enough to sit on the axle, being bumped and jostled around for hours. Not far from Hue, we drove down a hill which I can only describe as Asia's answer to Bolivia's "death road". Technically, it was a two-lane road, but the lanes were the tiniest I'd ever seen, and our bus often came face-to-face with a semi, and the driver had to maneuver around without hitting another vehicle, or driving us off the side of the cliff. Let me also say that it is beyond disconcerting when the lady in the seat next to you is gasping and screaming every five seconds.

The redeeming factor to this leg of the journey was the landscape. The grass was almost a cartoon green, and as far as the eye could see were the rice fields, with people in traditional rice-farming hats peacefully went about their work. The palm trees lined the side of the road, and it was that perfect time of day where the sun hasn't set yet, but the light has changed, and the sky is hazy. The mere scenery of this ride was one of the major highlights of my trip.

I can't elaborate on the ride from Hue to Hanoi, as I passed out on the bus. Anyway.

Originally, I had planned to head straight to Ha Long Bay from Hanoi, and spend a night on a Chinese junk boat. Unfortunately, the bus getting into town was four hours late and I missed my ride. In a state of extreme panic, I ran to the travel company's office - heavy backpack and all - and pleaded my case. The woman there explained that if I came back the next morning, there would be space on a boat for me. Relieved, I headed to the Hanoi Backpackers Hostel, where I decided to crash for the night. Upon arrival at the hostel, I met Kirsten, also from Canada, and we spend the day attempting the Old Quarter walking tour. Although we found ourselves lost many a time, there were some amazing things that we stumbled upon.

One of my favorite parts of the city - although not officially on the walking tour - was an alley, which looked to be a locals' market. There were no tourists, just local people hanging out, selling things like amazing-looking vegetables and fruit, fish heads, a net bag of frogs (still hopping), and a pot of shrimp (still swimming). It was nice to see a group of locals just living their lives, without the influence of tourists. They were all incredibly friendly, and one lady really wanted me to buy some raw mystery-meat from her (which I declined with a somewhat forced smile).

I didn't know that the Vietnamese language used the same alphabet as English. Although the words don't mean a single thing to me, it's a nice change to be able to read the letters on a sign and from there figure out how lost I actually am.

The lady at the travel office was as good as her word, I discovered the next morning. I showed up bright and early, and within about fifteen minutes, a group of other travellers had accumulated (it's always nice to see that you're not the only one there). We were loaded onto a tight minibus, and driven to the Ha Long harbour. We ended up standing in the parking lot for a good hour, and no one bothered to tell us what the problem was. Finally, our guide returned, and we were able to get on our boat. It was a traditional wooden Chinese junk ship, with dragons decorating the sides. The bedrooms were basic, with two double beds and an ensuite. However, they were cozy, and really just a place to rest my head that night. Most of the two days were spent on deck, camera in hand, snapping pictures like a madwoman.

After a delicious lunch on board (mostly meat dishes, with two incredible veggie sides), we sailed to an island, where the largest cave in Ha Long Bay was located. After climbing a fair number of stairs, you can enter the cave. It has out-of-this world stalactites and stalagmites all over, and there are colourful lights placed strategically all over the cave. After walking out of the cave, you're high enough up to see an incredible panorama of the jade water and limestone karsts. Photo ops galore!

After that, we visited a fishing village, with tiny, colourful floating houses peppered throughout the small inlet. We got onto a rickety boat, and floated through two small arches in one of the cliffs (apparently the James Bond movie Tomorrow Never Dies was filmed there), and all around the tiny houses.

The next morning, I woke up at 6:00, hoping to catch the sunrise. It didn't really happen, which was disappointing. Our guide then told us that we had an hour to kayak around the cliffs before breakfast - if we wanted. I was the first one off the boat. The water was calm, and because it was early, early, morning, we were the only people out and about. The water in the Bay was probably among the most beautiful I've ever seen, right up there with Railay.

Ha Long Bay was easily one of the highlights of my trip so far. I had seen pictures on the Internet, and thought that they were incredibly beautiful. What I learned was that they didn't do the real thing justice. The day was cooler and hazy, which added an amazing, mysterious ambiance to the place. Although I was a little chilly, I really enjoyed the mist, especially for the early morning kayak. There were tons of boats, but they were all spread out, so it didn't feel packed with tourists at all.

The only complaint I have about the Ha Long Bay tour is that there was a lot of sitting and waiting, and the guides never gave us a explanation of what was happening. However, for the (very) decent price I paid, I'm just glad I got a chance to see the Bay.

Now, I'm back in Hanoi. I think that today I'm going to take it easy and recharge before my night bus ride tonight. For the next two days, I'm going to be walking around Sapa. I've only heard good things so far, so I'm very excited. After that, I'm heading to Laos! Right now, I'm looking into booking a flight from Hanoi to Luang Prabang. It's more expensive, but it saves me a whole day. Why not?

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Vietnam. It's This Whole Other Country.

2011-03-04T00:05:00.000-08:00

Here I am, sitting in Hoi An, whose Old Quarter is a World Heritage site. People come from all over the world to buy custom made clothing from the hundreds of tailor shops in the town, and the narrow streets and French architechture make Hoi An a relaxing place to stop for a few days before heading to more hectic places, such as Hanoi. I have decided to spend one night here and then move on, because the accomodation here isn't exactly cheap, and, more importantly, I want to get to Halong Bay. This unfortunately means yet another gruelling bus journey tomorrow, but after that I don't have to do too many more, as most of the places I want to see are in closer proximity to each other. Hallelujah!

After spending a couple days in Phnom Penh, where I witnessed the Killing Fields, I decided to take a bit of a breather and head to Sihanoukville, Cambodia's beach town, for a few days. To be completely honest, I have some very mixed feelings about Sihanoukville. The scenery is gorgeous: white sand beaches, rolling waves, and beach huts where you can buy fresh food. Even though it was a little windy on the days I was there, it was warmer than it ever is at home. The locals tended to disagree - they were all bundling up.

The negative side of Sihanoukville started with the hawkers who invade the beach and will not leave you alone, no matter what. I tried smiling and shaking my head, ignoring them and reading my book, getting stern, and even pretending to be asleep. No dice. They offer you manicures and massages and so on, and if you refuse, they say that they'll come back later. And then they try to get you to pinky-swear that you won't let anyone else "help you". Could there possibly be anything more annoying?

Hell presented itself in the form of a particular hawker who more or less jumped on me as I came to the beach. She offered me a manicure, pedicure, massage...all the while, I shook my head and said "No, thank you." She then said she would find me later, and not to let anyone else do it. I ignored her, thinking she would get the picture, and annoy another one of the hundreds of people on the beach. Wrong. Maybe a half an hour later, another hawker came up, and asked me if I wanted a manicure. Getting a little exasperated, as I had just gotten to a good part of my book, I told her no. Well, that wasn't good enough for her. She grabbed my hand, and started doing my nails. I continued to tell her - in so many words - to bugger off. Unfortunately, she became selectively deaf, and wouldn't leave me alone, even as the other woman approached, and started shrieking at me in Khmer. She then pointed her finger in my face, and said "You no good. You leave Cambodia right now!" I guess refusing a manicure is worthy of exile. She then threatened to gouge my eyes out if I didn't leave right then and there - to prove her point, she held a pair of scissors about an inch away from my face. I decided this was as good a time as any to move over and sit next to an older English couple, who agreed to watch my back.

Oh, and did I mention that little children will come up and try to grope you and even pull your shirt down? It happened to me twice, and I had to resort to yelling at them. If I were in a group, I may have enjoyed Sihanoukville a little more, but as a woman travelling alone, I wish I had spend my last couple of days in Cambodia elsewhere. Being threatened, ogled and groped can ruin even the most beautiful places. For this reason alone, I would say that Sihanoukville is worth a try, but I think that there are better places to see.

After two days in Sihanoukville, I couldn't wait to move on. I bought a ticket to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon to the locals). I was expecting another sloppy, disorganized border crossing, but I don't think crossing from Cambodia to Vietnam could be any easier. We handed our passports to an officer who checked our visas, gave us an entry stamp, and let us have our passports back! We then had to walk through a scanner (like at the airports), and if we were clear, we were able to get back on the bus! The landscapes of Cambodia and Vietnam are, once again, completely different. Vietnam is greener, and the rice fields and palm trees are picturesque, and reminded me of Forrest Gump. On the bus to HCMC, I couldn't help listening to a playlist including Buffalo Springfield, the Byrds, Bob Dylan, and other hits from the Woodstock era. All in all, it created the perfect ambiance.

HCMC seemed like a different world from the dusty streets and old buildings of Cambodia. It was dark when I arrived, and the neon signs and chaotic traffic completely embodied my idea of an Asian city. The people were all so friendly, and I was pleasantly surprised at how cheap everything was!

The next day, I quickly discovered that there's an art to crossing streets in Saigon. When traffic lights and signs are a mild suggestion, and hundreds of motorcycles and the occasional bus are coming at you, surprisingly, the best method is not to timidly step out into the street. No, the best way to get across is to boldly step out into the traffic...miraculously, they steer around you!

A must-see in Saigon is the War Remnants Museum. I'm not a huge museum person, but this display was actually quite amazing. It gives a history of the war, as well as adding some of the Vietnamese perspective, which, of course, are not often heard about in North America. I was impressed by how unbiased the displays all were. I also learned that there were protests all over the world, advocating the Vietnamese people. I knew that this was a big issue in the US, but I had no idea that all over Europe, Asia, South America and even Africa, groups were marching in protest of the war.

The most disturbing part of the museum are the pictures of the birth defects caused by agent orange exposure. Babies all aroung HCMC were born without legs, without eyes, or with curved spines. Most of the aspects of the Vietnam war didn't make sense to me...the torture of innocent citizens, and especially the My Lai massacre were hard to believe, and even harder to understand. However, before visiting Saigon, I didn't really know anything about the war, and I feel like I understand more about the contry's history.

There are tons and tons of other museums to see in Saigon, but to be completely honest, that was the main one that I wanted to see. I spend the rest of the day walking around the city, seeing the amazing buildings and watching the people - and of course, dodging motos.

After HCMC, I decided to spend two days in Hoi An, and then continue to Hanoi, Halong Bay and Sapa. I had heard great things about Hoi An, and while it's definitely a gorgeous, laid-back town, there are definitely places in Vietnam that are higher on the must-see list. One day is enough for me. Tomorrow I'm going to catch a bus to Hanoi, and from there I'm going to head straight to Cat Ba island in the World Heritage site of Halong Bay. After that, I'm going to spend a few days in the hill-tribe village of Sapa, and then onto the long-awaited Laos!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

S-21 and The Killing Fields: A Hypnotic Hellraiser

2011-02-25T22:35:00.000-08:00

Before I begin writing, I would like to warn you that this blog contains extremely disturbing material. However, I don't believe that shying away from a harsh reality is any way to understand the world, either past or present. For that reason, I would like to ask you to please read. Education is the first step towards putting an end to any present or future situations comparable to the Cambodian genocide. Thank you!

It's impossible to visit Phnom Penh in Cambodia without making a stop at the Choeng Ek Killing Fields, and Tuol Sleng, the genocide museum. Since I booked my flight, this was never a question for me. I knew that it would be an emotional day, and I was going to see things - things that a culture had done to its own people - that were incomprehensible. But it felt like something I needed to do.

There are tours throughout the prison and the Killing Fields. Although it would have been nice to have a guide providing facts, I liked being able to explore at my own pace. I met up with a moto driver at my guesthouse who provided transportation, but I felt that I would rather witness this particular sight independently.

In 1975, the Khmer Rouge made it their goal to round up intellectuals, doctors, foreigners, peasants, workers, women and children - basically anyone they suspected of associating with the CIA or KGB - and sentencing them to prison. The children were arrested and murdered so that they would not seek revenge as they grew. The people were tortured in the most inhumane, gut-wrenching ways imaginable: beaten with bamboo sticks, strapped to tables and given electric shocks, and having finger- and toenails removed (just to name a few). The officers made rules that people were not allowed to cry, moan, or protest, even as they watched their own families being murdered. If these rules were broken, people would receive slashes or electric shocks. In short, the Khmer Rouge created a mountain of bones, and an ocean of blood.

Upon entering the Tuol Sleng museum (a former high school in Phnom Penh), it's hard to imagine that such atrocities had occurred right there. At first glance, it looks like an ordinary building - save for the rusted barbed wire at the top of the outside walls and outside the balconies of the school buildings. This prevented desperate prisoners from committing suicide.

I was afraid to go in at first. I paid my $2 entrance fee, and immediately felt doubtful. Based on what I had read in textbooks, seen on TV, and heard from other travellers, what waited inside the museum was almost impossible to believe.

After a few deep breaths, I was ready. Immediately after walking into the museum grounds, I saw the gallows, where people were tortured by being hung by their feet until they fell unconscious, only to be awakened by being plunged headfirst into water filled with fertilizer.

I then walked into Building A. The classrooms had been converted into prison cells, which contained one or more tiny, rusted beds. On the wall of each cell was a single black-and-white photograph of a prisoner - a former inmate of that room - shackled to the bed, unconscious, defeated and bleeding. Most of the rooms contained heavy, iron shackles, which had been attached to each prisoner's feet.

One of the most amazing things I noticed about the prison was the way you could see and hear the outside world from the barred rooms. Palm trees blew lazily, and the sounds of traffic and people carried through the air. This would have been the same during the days of the Khmer Regime. The few citizens who remained free would have lived their lives - literally - all around the prison.

The next building housed wooden and concrete cells. The concrete cells on the first floor were so tiny that I could stand up, but barely move about. I could not fully extend my arms. There were iron loops in the floor where prisoners would be shackled to the floor, as if being shoved into a cramped, dark, stuffy space wasn't debilitating enough. The wooden cells on the upper floors were similar. Hundreds of prisoners spent their final days here. In many of the cells there were stains on the floor that I believed - though I could be wrong - were blood.

The next buildings displayed information about the rise of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. All over the walls are hundreds of the infamous photographs of each victim, taken as they were brought to S-21. It's indescribable to look into the faces of men, women and children who must have known they were going to die. The looks of terror and hopelessness in their eyes grab you, and won't let go.

In these buildings, there is a pile of clothing retrieved from the prisoners...much like Auschwitz and other European concentration camps. S-21 is exactly that: the lesser-known answer to the Holocaust of the 1940s. There are also photographs of victims before and after torture. On the walls are posters with testimonials from some of the few survivors, as well as background information on those responsible. Keep in mind that the genocide occurred in 1975 - 1979. That's only 35 years ago. A number of these people are still alive. For example, Duch (the head officer at S-21) was sentenced to 35 years in prison only last year.

There are paintings on the walls of prisoners being tortured. One of the most disturbing is the portrait of a woman crying as her small baby is ripped from her. The looks of anguish in the paintings are incredibly disturbing and realistic. When S-21 was liberated in 1979, there were only seven survivors, one of them being the artist of the paintings. He was kept alive to paint pictures of Pol Pot.

At the end of the museum visit, there is a display of skulls, arranged by age and sex. It's amazing to see how each and every one of them has a crack or hole, from gunshots, or being beaten to death.

After the museum, it is essential to see the Killing Fields of Choeng Ek, 15 kilometers outside of Phnom Penh. The first thing I noticed when I arrived was the laughter of children at a school nearby. As you walk through the gate (pay $2), the first thing you see is a beautiful white stupa (Buddhist tower), with seventeen tiers. The first level (the very bottom) has a pile of clothing. Tiers two through nine or ten all contain human skulls, once again arranged by age, sex and cause of death. Tiers eleven to seventeen contain various bones. This monument was built in 1988 to celebrate and commemorate the millions who were killed in Cambodia during this dark time.

After the Cambodian people were liberated in 1979, almost 9000 people were exhumed from mass graves at Choeng Ek (more people all over the country). The largest one contained over 400 bodies. Another one contained 100 headless corpses. As you walk through the Killing Fields, look down at your feet. Chances are, you're stepping over bones and pieces of clothing. There are huge holes in the ground all over, which are remains of the other mass graves that were dug up. A little ways away is a mass grave, which contained hundreds of corpses of women and children, all naked. Beside this is one of the most disturbing and famous parts of the genocide: the tree where soldiers would hit babies' heads against, before tossing them into the mass graves. The tree was used to preserve "precious" ammunition.

When the Killing Fields were in use, prisoners were brought to Choeng Ek at around 6:30pm as it was getting dark. They were detained in a dark, crowded space for hours, and then brought to the Killing Fields, where they were executed. As prisoners arrived, they could not see what was happening, but could hear, in the distance, people being killed. To prevent this, the Khmer Rouge created the "magic tree". This is a tree where they would hang a loudspeaker, which made noise to cover up the moans and screams of the people.

Walking through the Killing Fields feels like walking through the set of some sick, perverse film director. It's hard to imagine that this is real, that people have the ability to do this to each other.

Many thoughts rushed through my head and I visited the sites of such sadness, but one thought overpowered all the others: "Why?" There is no explanation in the world that could make me understand how anyone could make sense of the breaking of body and spirit of a fellow human.

Back home, learning about Cambodia's history is not in the textbooks. We learn the basics: where Cambodia is, and that there was a genocide in the 1970s. But that's it. I wish that I had learned more about this when I was in school. Education is the first step to learning from history - in this case, a history which every Cambodian over 35 lived through. Everyone should experience Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields at one point. It's the first drop in the bucket towards helping us prevent another Khmer Rouge.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Cambodia at Last!

2011-02-23T21:18:00.000-08:00

Cambodia is where it all really started for me. In my youth (well, three years ago), I was a on a road trip with my dad, who was driving me to the west coast to start university. En route, we happened upon a travel program featuring Cambodia, and from then on I don't think I ever looked back. I was going. Period. End of discussion.

I can't explain what exactly appealed so much to me, but if I had to put it into words, it would be the uninhibited, non-touristy look that it had. The people seemed genuine, and describing the landscape as "breathtaking" would be a lame understatement. I like a good dose of culture shock, and it appeared that Cambodia, with its legendary temples, stormy past and gorgeous weather would be quite the place to get my fill.

I started my journey two days ago when I took a longtail boat from Railay Beach, and from there I was loaded onto a minibus (an amped-up minivan) and hurled off to Suratthani, where I could connect to a regular bus to Bangkok. As I have stated before, the 15-hour overnight bus journey between Krabi and Bangkok is not my favorite. Between snoring passengers, hard seats, and not being able to move, it was an uncomfortable night.
In Krabi, I took a massive chance and bought a bus ticket to Siem Reap in Cambodi from Bangkok. Although I had heard that this was a "scam bus"(paying a cheap price, but being put on a sketchy bus, dropped off at unexpected places, slow journeys, crossing at the wrong borders, etc), I had spoken to people who had travelled from Bangkok to Siem Reap without any problems. My reasoning for deciding to take this route was that as a woman travelling alone, I would rather be on a bus that goes directly through as opposed to taking my chances with taxis or tuk-tuks at the border. Either I got really lucky or the ways of travel are changing, because Ipaid a very reasonable price, and apart from the bus in Bangkok being an hour late (to be expected of any bus in Thailand), the trip went smoothly. I met a man on the bus who lived in Sihanoukville, Cambodia. It was reassuring to have him there, because if the bus really was a huge scam, a local should know better.

The border crossing into Cambodia was stressful, and definitely not something I would like to do more than once. I had to fill out forms for my visa, and at one point, one of the men who worked for the bus company took my passport, smiled and walked away! I would have easily paid any sum of money at that point to have my passport back in my hand. We walked through the little shanty-town on the Thai side of the border, where children and hawkers swarm you from every direction, and if that's not enough to put you on edge, you have to stand and listen to the guide explain all of the terrible things that can happen to your money in Cambodia, how we have to stay together, because if we split up, we may never see our group member again, and other reassuring things like that. Trust me, I was starting to feel like Cambodia was a really, really bad idea. Things got slightly better when I paid my $20 visa fee and my passport was handed back to me. We were then herded like cattle through a tiny, stifling building, where we had to line up. Half an hour and a lot of sweat later, I handed my passport to the officer who barely even looked at my passport before stamping it and waving me away.

My friends, welcome to Cambodia!

The Cambodian side of the border is a completely different story. Instead of a shabby, yet somewhat laid-back town, Poipet (the border town) is basically Cambodia's answer to a scary, dirty Las Vegas. There are run-down casinos, people trying to sell you things that you don't need (surprise), and men sitting by the side of the road leering. I met two other Canadian travellers while waiting to cross the border, and I'm very glad that we stuck together while walking through Poipet's streets. As soon as I entered the town, I wanted to get out of there - fast - and take a shower. Except for the necessary border crossing, I'd say give this one a miss.

From the bus station in Poipet, I caught a shared taxi with Jenny and Scott (my fellow Canadian travellers) to Siem Reap. Although it was a two-hour ride, I could look forward to arriving into town at 5:00pm instead of 8:00. Since I hadn't booked a guesthouse yet, I figured I'd like more time to scout out a place.

As you drive from Thailand to Cambodia, the difference between the two countries could not be more in-your-face obvious. For starters, they tend to drive a a little slower in Cambodia...but make up for that little inconvenience by passing on the wrong side of the road, usually when big trucks are coming at you. The landscape is more jungle-y, and I can definitely see why people have stated that Cambodia is twenty years behind Thailand. People ride bicycles or motos along the highway, dogs run free, and the strange beauty of people's run-down homes and land keeps you mesmerized the whole way.

When I finally - finally - arrived in Siem Reap, I met up with a tuk-tuk driver. Instead ofthe usual bargaining and whining that I was used to in Bangkok, he suggested a guesthouse, and took me right there! I decided not to stay there, because I would have had to pay $8 for a single room. The driver then suggested the Garden Village guesthouse (which is also highly reccomended by Lonely Planet). He drove me there, and I scored a dorm room for - get this - $1 a night! Although it's literally just a mattress outside on a bamboo platform, the place is clean, I've met some fun people, and the location is prime - right by the night bazaar and pub street. Yes Mom, there is a mosquito net...for free!

Although Siem Reap is a touristy city, it doesn't feel as hectic as Bangkok did. Cambodia has maintained its authenticity, and I've met some of the most genuine, friendly locals.

This morning, I woke up at 4:30am, and met up with a moto driver, who took me to the Angkor temples. I decided to do the one-day tour, because I have limited time, and I've talked to other backpackers who said that they felt like they really saw a lot in just a day. Why did I get up so early? I wanted to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat, and do some exploring before the tour buses arrived.

Sitting by the pond in front of the eighth wonder of the world in the dark was one of the most surreal amazing experiences of my life. Myself and maybe a hundred other people walked into the temple grounds in complete darkness (watch your step - just a hint) and although you can see the silhouette of the pagodas, the temple is still a mystery.

There wasn't a brilliant sunrise this morning, but I almost can't put into words how incredible it is to be sitting in the dark, and gradually, the Angkor Wat temple is illuminated in front of you. I'm glad that this was the first temple I saw, because as I walked around inside, admiring the detailed stone carvings, and marvelling at the size of the place, I wasn't constantly running into people.

As the day went on, the temples got busier and the day got hotter. To be honest, by the end of the tour, I was feeling a little temple-d out, and when you're trying to take a picture and other tourists are shoving you around, that usually means time to go. The highlights for me were the jungle temple (the Tomb Raider temple), the elephant temple, Angkor Thom, and - of course - Angkor Wat. It's not necessary for me to say, but if you're in Cambodia and miss Angkor Wat...for shame!

In the next few days, I'm planning to head to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, and brave the Killing Fields. After that, I think I'll need some down time in Sihanoukville. For now, however, a nap! The 4:30am start isn't really my thing.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The Last of Bangkok and the Long-Awaited Railay Beach!

2011-02-21T01:35:00.000-08:00

As I write this, I'm in a tarp-covered, painfully slow Internet cafe in Railay Beach, Krabi province, Thailand. It's raining like crazy, and I feel like I might need to build an ark soon. But that aside, let me just say that Railay is one of the most amazing places I've ever seen...and definitely one of the best travel choices I've made in my life. But more on that later.

Day two in Bangkok wasn't as stressful as the first. For one thing, I'd gotten more sleep, and for another, I had gotten used to the vendors, tuk-tuk drivers, and general chaos of the city. One could boldly say that I've become more confident in travelling alone.

Day two was also possibly hotter than day one, something I couldn't quite get my (increadibly sweaty) head around. That night a nice breeze began to blow at sundown, making it bearable to walk the streets at night. There are so many people around at night, that unless you stick to dark, scary alleyways by yourself, chances are, you'll be fine.

I braved walking farther on the second day, and discovered some interesting markets. You're packed shoulder-to-shoulder the whole way through, but that definitely adds to the experience. You see all sorts of people - my personal favorite being the eighty-something woman with the Playboy purse. Some people sell really cool things like paper lanterns, jewelry, musical instruments, and the infamous Thai fisherman pants. And some people sell really weird things like dismembered fish bodies and "pawned" iPods (probably stolen from unsuspecting tourists). And one guy will take your picture and make you up a press access card, drivers license or even university degree - for just 150 baht! What do you think, Mom?

The key to haggling in Southeast Asia is pretty much the same as anywhere else...find a price that makes everyone happy, and you can usually walk away with armfuls of souvenirs without spending an arm and a leg.

I now understand why Thailand is nicknamed "The Land of Smiles". Everyone is so friendly, and many people have stopped to welcome me to Thailand, and I received a few wai's in Thailand (a wai is a prayerlike palms-together gesture). One lady even stopped me in the street to comment on how white I was (I'm working on it).

After a slightly masochistic night bus - 15 hours from Bangkok to Krabi, never mind that the bus was two hours late because of a protest - I took longtail boat to Railay! Railay beach was one of the destinations on my trip that I was looking forward to the most before I got here. Just look up a picture and you'll understand. Although unfortunately, the picture won't do it justice. The limestone cliffs rise above white sand and jade water. I was speechless when I got into the boat, and could only snap pictures from every angle available. Although there are a lot of people here, I don't get that overrun, touristy feeling.

The first day, myself and Connie, a girl from Germany who I met on the bus, rented a kayak for three hours and paddled all around the island. You can paddle through caves right in the cliffs, or for the more adventurous, try to dodge the longtails coming right at you. We found a small beach not far from our guesthouse that was completely deserted. Photo ops, anyone? My back is now sunburned beyond belief, but I wouldn't have it any other way.

For those coming to Railay, I would suggest staying on the East side of the beach. That's where the more affordable guesthouses are. Although the beach is covered in mangroves and unsuitable for swimming, it's a quick walk to the West side, where the beach is always in action.

Today was the day I had been waiting for even before I booked my trip: rock climbing! At 8:45 this morning, I met up with the guides in the King Climbers' office (conveniently located inside my guesthouse, saving me an early-morning walk). From there, we walked to the first area, which was an amazing cliff jutting right out of the sea. Climbing outside is very different than indoors. My hands and knees are all scraped up now, and some of the hand and footholds were harder to find, and almost always painful to keep ahold of. However, the guides were patient and reassuring, and I had the time of my life. After a quick lunch (fried rice with vegetables - for free!) we headed to another area on the island which were apparently harder to climb. The views from the top of the routes are unbeatable! It makes all of the scraping, slipping and over-exertion of not-s0-strong arms worth it! Speaking of arms, mine are now extremely stiff, and even typing this simple blog feels like quite an effort. I now have mad respect for my brother, Sam, who does this kind of thing all the time. By the way, save your money and you can come out!

This all brings me to right now, where I'm sitting in an Internet cafe watching the rain and thinking about what I'm going to eat. This is the good life!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The First Day in Bangkok!

2011-02-17T17:49:00.000-08:00

Hey-oh! I am currently sitting in a nice, air-conditioned Internet shop on Khaosan Road, the heart of backpacker-ville in Bangkok, Thailand! I only arrived yesterday after something like 16 hours on airplanes. I finally arrived at the Suvarnabhumi (say that six times fast) airport two nights ago at midnight, and then had to camp out on one of their hard-metal benches until 5:30 the next morning, when I would (supposedly) be able to catch the airport express shuttle, which conveniently stopped right outside my hostel. Needless to say, I didn't get any sleep, and then to top it all off, the bus didn't come until 7:30. By that time, I was starting to feel a little crazy.

When I was finally able to leave the airport, I was blown away by the sights we passed as we drove into the city. The contrast between old and new is stunning. There are little tiny wooden shacks situated within meters of modern, shiny skyscrapers. To be completely honest, the modern buildings don't do all that much for me, but I love seeing the little houses and the older apartments...they have a lot more character. The contrast between old and new, as well as the style of buildings and roadways - and the driving - reminds me a little bit of Quito, Ecuador. One thing I've noticed is that in all of the older apartment buildings is that on almost all of the balconies, there are shirts hanging out to dry. I absolutely love the sight of this...I'm not sure why exactly, but I think it's beautiful.

Upon arrival in Khaosan, I took some time to walk through the road and check out the market. It's a little bit overwhelming to constantly have pesky tuk-tuk drivers coming up to you and saying, "Hey pretty lady! You need ride?" I've found that if you smile, say a simple "No" and keep walking, they'll get the point and leave you alone. All in all, I've felt quite safe so far in Bangkok, despite the constant chaos.

Within hours of arriving, myself and another single traveller were given a deal by a taxi driver: we could pay 1, 500 baht (about $40, or $20 per person) to take a day trip out of Bangkok to Wat Asokaram, for three hours. I decided to go for it, since it was a place I probably wouldn't be able to see otherwise. It definitely offered a contrast from Bangkok. Instead of constant hustle and bustle, it was peaceful, with monks walking around, running water, and the cutest little dogs sleeping all over the place! There were amazing Buddhist temples and statues of Buddha everywhere...the likes of which I had only seen in pictures. I also noticed that all of the pictures in the temple featured people working, families and celebration instead of the constant doom and suffering painted in all of the churches in Europe. There was one gory picture of a man being eaten by an alligator in the temple...ah well.

Afterwards, we headed back to Bangkok. Since I hadn't eaten since that morning, I took a chance and bought a delicious pad Thai off the street for less than a dollar! I've been feeling fine all day. The key to buying from food stalls is to go where other people are going, as this indicates how safe the food is. After eating, a tuk-tuk driver offered me a three-hour tour for only 20 baht. This seemed a little suspicious to me, so I politely declined, and instead, headed to a travel agency just outside of the Khaosan area to book my trip to Krabi (gra-bee). Khaosan road is peppered with travel agencies, but all of the prices they offer are too good to be true...which they are. I ended up paying 1, 500 baht for a night bus from Bangkok to Krabi, leaving tomorrow. From there, I head to the amazing Railay Beach for some rock climbing. A shout out to my brother Sam...if it weren't for him, I wouldn't have even heard of Railay, and now it's one of the places I'm looking forward to the most on my whole trip!

So far, despite being a little stressful and always on the move, Bangkok is a friendly, safe city, with endless things to do and see. The only real complaint I have is the bed at my hostel: it is as hard as a rock...literally. However, delicious food in the restaurant downstairs and friendly staff definitely make up for it. Last night, I went to bed at 7:00pm, intending to lay down for a minute, and found myself waking up 13 hours later. Now I feel a little less jet-lagged and ready to do some more exploring. I leave at 5:00pm tomorrow, and arrive in Railay by noon or 1:00.

I'll start uploading pictures as soon as a) I take a few more and b) I can find a USB plug.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

What I Learned on Eurotrip 2009 (better late than never)

2010-05-29T15:56:00.000-07:00

1. You WILL see your hostel roommates naked/in their underwear. Even if you don't want to.

2. Do not walk on bike paths. If you must, MOVE if you hear people yelling in Dutch. They are yelling at you, and you may cause an accident - much like Shayla and I did five minutes after getting off the train in Amsterdam.

3. Shaving legs is overrated.

4. Deodorant is not.

5. There is no peanut butter in the entire country of Hungary. There are, however, about a dozen different types of Nutella.

6. Beer really IS cheaper than water.

7. Put detergent in the washing machine - after all, isn't that the point?

8. You likely won't know what you're eating. Just eat it anyway.

9. Yum Yum is the best brand of instant noodles. Hands down.

10. Austrian cake is to die for.

11. Don't feel bad about "borrowing" free breakfast from the hostels for lunch - it saves you a couple of Euros.

12. Get an ISIC card! It saves tons of money!

13. If you're in Amsterdam and want a coffee, go to a cafe. "Coffee shop" has a very different meaning.

14. 40, 000 really isn't that much in Hungarian money.

15. It is perfectly fine to simply nod and smile when someone randomly walks up to you and begins speaking German/Dutch/Czech/Hungarian. Unless they stop talking and anxiously await an answer. Then it's time to admit that you don't actually speak their language.

16. Stacking dolls are really, really cool.

17. German keyboards are hard to type on.

18. You CAN order a beer at McDonalds, a quarter-pounder is a Royale with cheese, and fries are eaten with mayonnaise (as stated in Pulp Fiction).

19. Schnitzel is NOT as good as it sounds.

20. Cold canned pasta isn't really all that bad. And instant noodles rarely ever disappoint.

21. Stopping and staring is a frequent occurrence.

22. There really are people out there who JUST DON'T GET IT. When you're visiting Dachau, a Holocaust memorial and concentration camp, it's not a good idea to complain about how unsatisfactory your cruise was - even if it really did suck.

23. Europe really IS as gorgeous as they say!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

A Sweet Little Side Trip to Hungary: Eurotrip Part 7

2009-08-15T02:23:00.001-07:00

As we were stategically planning out hostel bookings and travel destinations a few weeks ago, Shayla and I encountered a slight problem: we had a whole week where we didn't have anywhere in particular to be! There were two apparent options: either go back to Germany and try to find somewhere else to go, or go off the beaten path and see another country that we weren't planning on travelling to. The choice was evident...off we went to Hungary.

Since we didn't have tons of time, Shayla and I decided to mainly stick to Budapest, but we also spent two days in Eger, just two hours out of the capital.

Prior to my arrival, I had heard many good things about Budapest, so naturally, I was very excited to see it! It did not disappoint - to say the least! If I had to choose a favorite destination so far (for fear of torture via bamboo under my fingernails), Budapest would have to be it. There are endless things to do - from visiting the castle, parliament buildings, and synagogue (the largest operating synagogue in the world), to climbing Castle Hill to get some amazing photos of the city, four days was hardly enough time to see all of Budapest.

Budapest is a classic city with a very modern feel. Just walking around and seeing the buildings, town squares, and different people is a great way to spend the day.

There is a giant market building where you can buy all sorts of fruits, vegetables, meats, and Hungarian take-away food (delicious). The upstairs of the building is dedicated to selling souvinirs - this is the place to come to get your flags, magnets, stacking dolls and t-shirts. Did I mention how reasonably priced everything is? That was another appealing aspect of Hungary - it was very affordable. The market was the perfect place to buy some gifts for friends at home, as well as adding to my own ever-growing collection of European souvinirs.

The Buda Castle is a must-see. It is located on top of a hill overlooking the Danube River, and the views of the city and the Chain Bridge are stunning. We happened to go on a beautiful day - sunny, not a cloud in the sky. Unfortunately, it was 32 degrees, so instead of actually going into the castle, we relaxed in the courtyard. Still, it was a nice walk, and a very worthwhile hangout spot.

For anyone up for a good walk, I would also suggest climbing Castle Hill. If you are visiting in the summer, I would definitely recommend either picking a cooler day to do this, or going in the evening, so as to avoid overheating. From the top of the hill, you can see the entire city from every angle. At night, there are also tons of photo opportunities, including the castle, and the bridges over the Danube. Everything is lit up. It is absolutely gorgeous.

The synagogue is also definitely worth a visit. The you show your student card, you pay 750 HUF, which grants you admission to the synagogue itself, the Jewish museum, and the courtyard.

Although I've been in a fair few synagogues in my life, I have never seen such a gorgeous one! The Budapest synagogue - second largest in the world, and the largest operating one - is a stunning structure, with high windows, and designs among the bricks decorating the outside. On the inside you see chandeliers, and the walls are decorated with ornate mosaic stars-of-David. The Bimah and Ark at the front are elegant, with gold decorations. If you go into the synagogue, remember to cover your shoulders! Guys, you need to cover your heads as well.

The Jewish museum is quite tiny. You climb up several flights of stairs, and enter the museum, which consists of two rooms. One has traditional Jewish items on display, such as Torah scrolls, yarmulkes, menorahs, and tallit (prayer shawls). In the other room, Budapest's Jewish history is outlined, including the early histtory, and the the more recent persecution of the people during the Second World War. We didn't spend too long in the museum, but it was very interesting to see. I was glad to see a display of some aspects of Jewish life that were unrelated to the Holocaust.

The synagogue's peaceful courtyard consists of memorials to many Hungarian Jews who perished during the war. In the centre of the courtyard is the huge silver Tree of Life. On each leaf, the name of a victim of the Holocaust is inscribed. I thought this was a beautiful metaphor.

Another must-see while in Budapest is the House of Terror. Remember, during both WWII and the Cold War, Budapest was a central location, so much political action took place here. The House of Terror, situated in the actual headquarters of both the Nazi and Soviet officers in their respective times of power, is a museum which demonstrates the persecution and hardship forced upon Hungarian citizens during these two brutal regimes.

As you walk through the museum, you read accounts of the goings-on in Budapest during the Second World War and the Cold War. Each room is dedicated to a different aspect of these times: political leadership, the Resistance, labour camps (gulags), uniforms, party propaganda, and so on. Many of the rooms show video interviews from people who lived through these times. One room also shows footage from trials which took place during the Cold War.

The basement of the House of Terror is definitely the most disturbing part of the museum. That is where the prison cells are; the torture of prisoners also took place here. Most of the cells are very tight, confined spaces, and believe it or not, this was the kind of cell you would hope to be kept in. There were other tiny cells where prisoners would be forced to stand in water. Other cells were so low that the inmates could not stand up, others were so narrow that one could stand, but not move nor turn around. Prisoners were only fed once a day - at most - and in some cells, the officers could cut off the airflow. In a room off to the side of the cells was the gallows. Apparently no excecutions took place in this particular building, "only" fatal beatings and torture. It was hard to believe that this was happening in a building right in the middle of one of Budapest's main streets. Here was another example of man's inhumanity to man that astounded me. It really made me thing about the state of the world, and how anyone anywhere could believe that the breaking the body and spirit of another human being was acceptable.

Although it is definitely not a joyful palce, the House of Terror is very interesting and informative. I learned quite a few things about WWII and the Cold War that I had not known prior to visiting. Go!

Other things in Budapest that are strongly recommended (that we did not get to do because of our time crunch) are the mineral baths, which are basically a collection of hot springs. Word is that they are extremely relaxing. Also, Memento Park, which is a collection of confiscated Communist statues and propaganda, would have been worth a visit. Apparently they show a documentary about spying, and gathering secret information. Who knows, that could come in handy!

I can honestly say that I loved Budapest! It's beautiful, chock-full of things to do, affordable, and brimming with unbelievable history.

Eger (egg-AIR), a smaller town just two hours away from Budapest, is also worth a visit, especially if you're big into wine. We didn't do any of the wine tasting, but I've heard that Eger's Valley of Beautiful Women is the place to be in Hungary if wine's your thing.

Before travelling to Eger, I had heard that it was a bit of a dive, and not really worth going. If you're a party animal, then definitely give it a miss. But if you're just looking for some down time, I would suggest spending a day or two. There aren't tourist attractions galore in the town, but there is - surprise - a castle (with staff in full medieval costumes), several cathedrals, and a pretty little town square. The town is very traditional, and the views are unbeatable. Everything is decently priced, and it is not too touristy, which is a nice change from the big cities.

A great (and very reasonably priced) daytrip from Eger is to Aggtelek, where you can take a tour through the ancient Baradla caves. You take a three-hour bus ride to Aggtelek (where there really isn't much of anything), and then choose a one-, three-, or four-hour tour. We took the one hour tour because of the time issues. Although it was 30 degrees outside, the temperature in the caves is a consistent 10 degrees, which was actually quite a nice change. I had to pull my hoodie out of my bag for the first time in quite a while.

The tour was in Hungarian, so I can't say I learned a whole lot, and when everyone else oohed, aahed, or laughed, I felt quite lost. Hoever, the inseide of the cave was very cool. The rock formations, and different colours were beautiful, and in one part of the cave, the acoustics were so good that concerts were held there on occasion. I never would have expected that! I would definitely suggest the Baradla cave tour.

The landscape in Hungary is unbelievably beautiful. It reminds me quite a bit of Canada's Okanagan. Everything in the country was gorgeous, and I definitely want to go back! I only have two real complaints: some people (in stores and such) seem a little angry, and there doesn't seem to be peanut butter anywhere in the country. For the most part, however, I am so, so glad that I got to experience Hungary.

Now I'm in Berlin. After three countries, four trains, and fifteen hours...beginning at 4:40 this morning, I have finally made it. Don't ask me how I survived it...I really couldn't tell you!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Prague, Cesky Krumlov and Olomouc - Czech it Out!: Eurotrip Part 6 (continued)

2009-08-07T11:42:00.000-07:00

As I write this, I am in the amazing city of Budapest. Although I've only been here for a couple of hours, I'm already loving it! There's so much history, there are tons of modern-day activities...and it's all in my price range! What more could a girl ask for really? Did I mention that The Loft Hostel (home for the next two nights), is one of the most welcoming, upbeat places I've stayed so far?

Shayla and I spent the zlast two nights in Olomouc (O-lo-moutz) in the Czech Republic. It's a cute little university town in Moravia. Olomouc is a must-see destination for travellers, especially those who are desperately seeking some chill time. It has a reputation of being like Prague, but without the swarms of tourists. Some people even went so far as to tell me that it was better than Prague. Well, you all know how I feel about Prague. This was something I had to see for myself.

Upon arriving in Prague, I could see that "Prague without the tourists" pretty much sums up Olomouc. The cobblestone streets, Baroque architecture, and Eastern influence echo those of Prague, but the lack of tourists - and potential pickpockets - is very refreshing.

The Poet's Corner Hostel, where we stayed, felt more like staying in someone's home than in a hostel. It's quiet and extremely welcoming. The people who run the hostel are very informative - we were given a whole list of things to do during our stay. They also let us know about a hockey game going on that night, and a Euro Leage football game the next night! I wouldn't have had the slightest clue about either had they not told me. I would definitely recommend the Poet's Corner.

The hockey game - Olomouc versus a Slovakian team - was mad fun! Although the seats were nowhere near as packed as you would see at a Canadian game, the fans were all riled, wearing jerseys and scarves, and the energy was contagious! A big group in the stands had a drum, and they were belting out some intense Czech cheers. I wish I could have joined in. Alas, Slovakia won the game (5 - 3), but the experience was definitely worth it! I couldn't help noticing that European hockey is a little different than Canadian - the main thing being less fighting. Don't get me wrong, it was a pretty physical game, but I didn't expect to see the gloves drop. Oh, did I mention I only paid 20 Kc? That's $1.30 Canadian.

The football (soccer for you North Americans), was an intense match between Olomouc and Aberdeen. We paid 150 Kc ($10.00 Canadian) for front row seats! The energy was overwhelming, and the fans were absolutely insane. I thought the hockey game was loud! The wave went around the stadium at least fifty times, and Scottish and Czech cheers echoed throughout the whole area. Now I see why Europeans take their football so seriously! Olomouc won...it was so much fun to be there when the home team took the glory. It was on my bucket list to see a European football match, and now I can safely say I've done it! It really was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Olomouc's Old Town is also worth a visit. In the main town square is an astronomical clock, which "performs" at noon. The bells ring, and the little wooden people at the top spin around in circles. It's worth a viewing if you happen to be in the area, but honestly, I wouldn't go out of my way to see it. Do not, by any means, expect a Disneyland "It's a Small World"-esque show!

Cafe 87, just around the corner from the hostel, is a great place to get all sorts of coffees, baked goods, and breakfast items. (I strongly suggest the cheese and tomato toast, and the chocolate pie). Everything is affordable, and there is internet for only 1 Kc a minute.

Olomouc is still somewhat of a hidden gem of the Czech Republic, but I'm very glad I went! I would advise anyone in the area to stop by for a day or two!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Prague, Cesky Krumlov and Olomouc - Czech It Out!: Eurotrip Part 6

2009-08-04T09:34:00.000-07:00

Here I am in the Czech Republic! So far, the countryside and the cities have been the most beautiful that I've seen - not that there's anything wrong with the rest of te European countries that I've travelled through, but I really have been blown away by the Czech Republic. It is definitely the most different country I've been to on this trip so far; the Eastern influence is evident, the prices are lower, and the people (in Prague at least) are, well, not as friendly.

Our journey started early on July 31 when we caught a train from Munich to Prague. We were all ready for a good sleep during the six-hour train ride, but alas, we were awakened by a rowdy bachelor party in the next compartment over. It was nine in the morning, and they were all completely plastered. It was almost impressive. We heard German drinking songs floating through the walls, accompanied by the occasional "Ja baby!"

Did I mention that the guest of honour was sporting a full-size, arseless pink bunny costume? As he turned around, we were given a full-on view of his tight, black man thong. His men-in-waiting wore matching shirts, which read "Hey bunnies, watch out for the wasted pink one! It's his last day of freedom!" They were also wearing lederhosen. They asked us if we could help them out, by cutting the tags out of our underwear (for reasons unknown). We politely declined, and carried on our train ride. Gotta love Germany.

Before arriving in Prague, I had been told many, many times that it was the most beautiful city I would ever see. Obviously, my expectations were pretty high. Well, let me tell you first hand that it is the most gorgeous city I have seen so far! Each building has a slightly different archetectural pattern and colour. They all compliment each other perfectly. The cobblestone streets lead to a cute little square in the Old Town, which is surrounded by restaurants, shops and churches. I must admit, I'm feeling a little churched out, but they were still stunning buildings.

We stayed at the Czech Inn (very witty). Although it's actually a hostel, it looks like a hotel. It's very clean, the staff are knowledgeable, and it's actually pretty decently priced for what it is.

The Prague Castle is a must. Although it is nowhere near as elegant on the inside as the Schloss Schonbrunn, it has a very cool surrounding courtyard to wander, and the terraces all offer million-dollar views. You can see the town, the hills and the river from different angles.

We also walked across the famous Charles Bridge (several times). It offers even more amazing photo opportunities.

Another must-see is the Jewish Quarter, part of which was walled off in the 11th century. In this part of town there are synagogues galore, a small market, and shops which sell Jewish memorabilia (like yarmulkes, mezuzahs and mogen Davids). I may be biased, but I thought it was pretty cool. Up till that point, I had hardly seen any evidence that Jewish people even existed in Europe. It was a neat contrast.

My friends may have gotten sick of me going on and on about how amazing I thought Prague was, but I couldn't help it! I was overwhelmed by its beauty!

Kutna Hora, a small town just over an hour out of Prague, is an excellent daytrip to take. Although there aren't zillions of tourist attractions, it's a cute little town, and it's interesting to see a more tradtional Czech town. The main reason we went, however, was to see the bone cathedral.

There are quite a few cathedrals in Kutna Hora, but as I already mentioned, I'm feeling the symptoms of ABC (Another Bloody Church) syndrome, so I decided to just stick to the bone cathedral, as it was highly recommended - and really, how often do you walk into a church decorated with human bones?

It's very cheap to enter the bone cathedral. It's pretty small, but by no means is it an in-and-out tourist destination. There are chandeliers, crests, wall decorations, and even huge piles of human bones (the extras?) Outside, there is a large cemetary. I learned that the people buried there were the wealthy citizens. However, during the plague, people were dropping like flies. There were more bodies than the town knew what to do with, and thus, the bones of Kutna Hora's Average Joes were used to adorn the inside of the church! It was easily one of the most bizarre things I've ever seen, but it was very interesting to learn the background information, and when you think about it, it was actually kind of resourceful...

Since Shayla and I were heading to Cesky Krumlov after Prague, and Steph and Julie were on to Berlin, we all decided to go out for dinner. Was it ever worth it! The main dishes were all amazing, the side dishes were mouth-watering, and the dessert was phenomenal! The Klub Architektu restaurant is located in a 15th century cellar with a very cool, relaxed vibe. There were plenty of veggie options, and it was actually reasonably priced - considering all the food we got. The hot chocolate was probably the best I've ever had! After eating bread, peanut butter, and canned food for weeks, it was one of the best dinner experiences I've had in a long, long time. I strongly suggest it!

Overall, Prague is definitely one of my favorite places so far. It's gorgeous, and it lacks that intimidating big-city feel.

Cesky Krumlov, a town south of Prague, is the perfect place to come for R&R. It has tiny, cobblestone streets (which can be terrifying when cars come out of nowhere and try to drive through the people). There are cute little shops, restaurants and hotels, and the river runs right smack in the middle of town. A pub crawl (rafting down the river and stopping at different bars) is offered for 250 KC, but because it's been cold and rainy for the last couple of days, we decided to give it a pass.

The Hostel 99 (where we're staying) is a quaint little place in the middle of town. It's clean, the staff is friendly, it's decently priced, and well equipped with internet, a kitchen and a DVD collection. Albeit some, er, eccentric roommates, it's been a good place.

Tomorrow we're on to Olomouc, and from there Budapest. I'm looking forward to seeing some of Eastern Europe that I wasn't expecting to!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The Dachau Concentration Camp: How I Saw It

2009-07-30T05:30:00.000-07:00

I was feeling the typical stomach-tightening, sweaty-palmed fear as I rode the bus out of Munich on my way to the Dachau concentration camp. I was worried about what I would see. Would I be able to handle it? After all, here I was, walking into a place where so many people of my faith were persecuted, tortured, and ultimately murdered.

Dachau was opened in 1933 as an internment camp for political prisoners. All of the other concentration and extermination camps in Europe were modelled after the very place I stood just yesterday.

Upon arrival, our guide, Alan, gave us the background history of the camp. He told us that the numbers of people who died there were inaccurate, because Jews, Gypsies and old or weak prisoners were not counted in the death toll because they were not considered people. Also, the majority of bodies in the mass graves were not identifiable.

To get into Dachau, students pay €18, which includes transportation, admission, and a guided tour. This struck me as bizarre. Here I am, a Jew, paying to get into a Nazi camp.

First off, we watched a 22 minute documentary, which basically outlined the history and goings-on inside the camp from 1933 to 1945. And then we walked in. We entered through the iron gate, and there were those words: Arbeit macht frei. Work makes you free. The big lie.

Upon walking into Dachau, you come across a huge gravel compound (where roll call was performed every day). To your right is a multi-purpose building, once the maintenance building, jail cells, execution area, and later, a war-crime court. Today, it is a museum. There are various memorials, including a sculpture depicting bodies entwined in barbed wire, honoring the suicides committed at Dachau. There is also a colourful mosaic representing the different groups persecuted here.

On the left are two barracks. The rest were destroyed in the 1960s. I learned that the barracks we walked through were not, in fact, original. They were built as exact replicas of the ones there during the war, but they were not authentic. For me, this took away from the effect somewhat.

After the barracks, we were shown guard towers, and the deep ditch, electric fence, and cement wall, which was the Nazis` surefire way of keeping prisoners in. Also situated here were three memorials: Jewish, Roman Catholic, and Protestant. I found it interesting how the Protestant memorial did not have any right angles. Alan explained that this was to defy the order of the war.

Then we turned the corner and arrived at what can only be described as a "death factory". It involved the disinfecting room, crematorium, corpse holding rooms...and the infamous gas chamber. There is no recorded evidence that the gas chamber at Dachau was ever used, but of course that is not necessarily accurate. It felt absolutely sick to my stomach walking through there.

It was so surreal being in a place where, had I been born in another time and place, I would have been forced into. I feel almost guilty about how lucky I am.

The sight of the gas chamber has really stuck with me. It had a low ceiling, no more than 10 feet high, and even in bright daylight it was dark, save for the small bit of light seeping through the viewing window. This was where the Nazis would stand, and watch the victims die their slow, agonizing death. It was so painful being in that tiny, stuffy room. It was so hard to come to terms with the human atrocities that had occurred right where I was standing.

Before leaving Dachau, I noticed that part of the international memorial included a plaque which read "Never Again" in five different languages. How ironic. It has happened many times since the Holocaust, and it`s happening all over the world today. The only words that come to mind when I try to describe the situation are FUCKED UP.
I`m so glad that I got the opportunity - privilege if you will - to walk through a hands-on display of a horrific part of my religious history. A history which essentially affected everyone. I strongly suggest that everyone visiting Europe visits a concentration camp or Holocaust museum. It doesn`t help us change the world situation if we choose to shelter ourselves in the favorable parts of the places we visit. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet, and see the good, the bad and the ugly.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I`d love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Sacre Torte, a Palace, and Damn Good Beer: Eurotrip Part 4

2009-07-30T05:04:00.000-07:00

Here I am in Munich, the heart of Bavaria, and one of the more cultural parts of Germany. The last few days have been a whirlwind trip through Austria, and then back into Germany. I am currently staying at a hostel called the "Easy Palace". No joke. I will not turn away any judgment.

Last week, we spent three days in Vienna, a city famous for its classy lifestyle, gorgeous architecture, and sacre torte...which I didn`t actually try, but the chocolate cake exceeded its expectations with flying colours.

Although I was warned that accommodation in Vienna would be pricey, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Wombat`s hostel was actually one of the more affordable places I`ve stayed in so far! It had a very funky, welcoming atmosphere, spacious rooms, and friendly staff. I would strongly suggest it.

Vienna has an entire museum quarter, where you can flash your student card and go visit paintings by artists like Klimt and Schiele. It was €6.50 to get into one museum, so Shayla and I decided to call it a day after that one. We were looking for Klimt`s masterpiece "The Kiss", but found that we were in fact in the wrong museum. On the brigt side, I discovered that I am now a big fan of Egon Schiele`s bizarre work.

You can find all sorts of souvenirs at Vienna`s shops - the shopping wasn`t nearly as pricey as I imagined, although by no means the cheapest.

Every Saturday there is a flea market set up by the Old Town. We went with hopes of finding some decently priced souvenirs, and although quite a few stands do sell wallets, scarves and jewelery, the majority of them look like odds and ends that people have rooted out of the deep, dark crannies of their homes, and attempted to put up for sale. It`s ridiculously crowded, and after a while, it gets agitating, and I couldn`t wait to leave.

The buildings in Vienna`s old town are all incredibly beautiful, but the highlight for me was the Schloss Schönbrunn, the Hapsburg Palace.

For €13.60 (student price), you can take a tour around the first floor, and then walk through the gorgeous imperial gardens, view the property from the panoramic terrace - breathtaking - and then try your luck finding the way through a hedge maze. Fair warning: the signs in the garden are very misleading, and finding your way TO the maze is actually more challenging than the maze itself. It is well worth it in the end though!

Although I will freely admit that I am not a huge museum person, I`m very glad I saw the Schloss Schönbrunn - I mean, how many times do I get to hang out in a palace?

Vienna is definitely a must-see for anyone travelling Central Europe (that almost goes without saying). It`s rich in culture, cuisine, and pleasantly surprising affordable accommodations.

Salzburg, Austria (famous for its musical talent, Mozart, and even moreso, The Sound of Music) is the most perfect, idyllic town I`ve even seen. Not only is it surprisingly affordable, but it has a very laid-back, friendly welcoming vibe. The whole city, not just the hills, are alive with The Sound of Music. Everywhere you turn there are tours, visuals, or souvinirs dedicated to the classic film.

Shayla, Steph, Julie and I did not take a tour around Salzburg because it was quite expensive (€33), but we did see some of the places where the movie was filmed, such as the fountain in the central square (where Julie Andrews belts out "I Have Confidence"), the steps in a city garden (where part of "Do Re Me" is performed), and the back of the house used as the Von Trapp family villa (on a lake just outside of town, surrounded by a swimming pool and bike path). I can`t wait to watch the movie again, and point out to anyone who will listen all the places I was!

I would strongly push a trip to Salzburg to anyone in or around Austria. The cathedrals, fountains and gardens are absolutely gorgeous, the city is very clean, and it had a fun, welcoming atmosphere, which only added to the allure.

Munich, our next stop, where I currently sit, is the capital of Bavaria. Before arriving, everyone I knew who had been to Munich told me that it was the absolute best place to go in Germany. To be honest, I haven`t felt exactly that way. Don`t get me wrong, I really like Munich - although it has somewhat of a big-city feel, it seems much more cultured and welcoming than Frankfurt. I`ve come to the conclusion that the nightlife must be what all the fuss is about.

I`m not going to lie, I really enjoyed the beer hall (built in the 1500s, the oldest in Munich, and home to the hugest beer mugs I`ve ever seen). The Old Town is very beautiful, and the English Garden - bigger than both Central and Hyde Parks - is stunning, and a great place to come together and relax.

There are some great day trips from Munich, such as the Dachau concentration camp (which I visited), and the Neuschwanstein Castle (built by the crazy King Ludwig, and model to Walt Disney`s dream castle). Steph and Julie are there as I write this.

Despite Munich not exactly being the be-all-and-end-all of Germany (in my opinion), I`m glad I spent some time here. There is no shortage of things to do, people to meet, and beer to drink. It is a must for anyone visiting Bavaria.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I`d love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The End of Germany (for now): Eurotrip Part 3

2009-07-24T10:49:00.000-07:00

Here I am sitting in a funky little hostel in Vienna! After surviving a seven-hour train trip, I've decided to wind down and record the next saga of Eurotrip 2009!

After one relaxing but quick day in Bonn, Shayla and I took an hour train ride to Frankfurt where we met Steph and Julie. The hostel we stayed in (the Frankfurt Hostel) was quite nice, although it was huge. It was also conveniently located in the sketchier part of town, with an abundance of hookers, sex shops and other shady looking people and places.

To be honest, I didn't become a huge fan of Frankfurt. I'm really glad we made the decision to only stay one night and then move on. It was stifling hot that day, and the smog in the air only made it worse. I was sweating bullets after being outside for five minutes, and I found that after walking around for a few hours we were all totally drained - props to Steph for battling jet lag and coming with us!

Because Frankfurt is one of the world's corporate capitals, many of the buildings are huge skyscrapers, giving off that intimidating, big-city feel. However, it felt like any generic big city. There was much less culture in Frankfurt than Bonn or Cologne. The only thing we could think of to do was walk to the Old City, and even then the shopping was expensive. 4€ for a shot glass? Come on! Perhaps if I had more dough to blow I would have had a better time in Frankfurt. I know that there are much worse places in the world that I could have ended up, but if I may give my honest opinion, I would suggest backpackers in Germany give Frankfurt a miss - or stay one night at most!

Heidelberg - where we found ourselves next - was the complete opposite to the hustle and stress of Frankfurt. With a reputation of being one of Germany's more romantic cities, it had a very laid-back, welcoming atmosphere, much like Bonn. Although Heidelberg isn't the home of hundreds of amazing tourist attractions, just walking around the cobblestone streets and seeing all the charming buildings in the Old Town is pretty satisfying! The shopping is quite reasonably priced, and the people are all so friendly. For example, one of the staff at Steffis hostel (which was unfortunately booked up when we arrived) phoned around and landed us a room at another youth hostel. She really went out of her way, and I know we were all VERY grateful!

Anyone visting Heidelberg should definitely make a point of visiting the Schloss, a castle on a hill overlooking the city. Not only is it a small €1.50 when you flash your handy dandy student card, but it has the most unbelievable view of the city - from up there you can see everything! Besides viewpoints you can find gift shops, a pharmacy museum, picturesque courtyards, and a wine cellar with the most gigantic kegs I've ever seen inside the castle. Because it is a bit of a climb (over 300 steps) to get there, I would definitely suggest going in the evening if the day is a scorcher.

We moved on from Heidelberg the next day and stayed in Freiburg for a night. Freiburg is another cute, traditional German town in the heart of the world-famous Black Forest. Although stories of sorcerers, witches and werewolves (think Hansel and Gretel) surround the Black Forest, I can honestly say that I LOVED it - but that could be because I managed to avoid a nasty encounter with a werewolf or witch. I was surprised to find that the Black Forest was less evergreen-y, and much more comparable to the rainforests on Vancouver Island - ferns and all. The humidity everywhere I've been so far is unreal - and it's doing crazy things to my hair!

We did see bakeries selling delicious-looking Black Forest cake all over Freiburg, but we made the tragic mistake of going hiking first, and when we ventured back into town, the cake was sold out - everywhere! I'll probably never live that down.

The weather in the Black Forest set the perfect mood that day - it was pretty dark (although not cold), and there was distant thunder. Althought there was a huge downpour earlier in the day, the rain stopped long enough for us to go for a good hike. Flocks of crows kept flying over us, and quite a few times we saw forks of lightning that can really only be described as "badass". I can see where the stories come f
rom. All in all, the Black Forest exceeded the expectations I had!

Now, here I sit in Vienna. We had to wake up at 6:00 am to catch a train back to Frankfurt (joy), and from there, we rode to Vienna. It hurts me to think that the train ride was only an hour shorter than the flight from Calgary to Glasgow. However, I have no doubt that Vienna will be worth it!

We're spending three days in Vienna, one in Salzburg (where the hills are alive), backtracking to Munich and Dachau, and then heading to Prague...and from there who knows? I can't believe that I've been here a week! It feels like it's been both longer and shorter.

Happy belated birthday, Mom! For now, I think I'm going to retire back to my room in the Wombat's hostel. I need my beauty sleep!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Chocolate, Stairs, and a Hint of Relaxation: Eurotrip Part 2

2009-07-21T09:32:00.000-07:00

Well, here I am in an internet cafe in Frankfurt! The last three days have definitely been somewhat whirlwind, but fantastic none the less!

After leaving Amsterdam, Shayla and I made our way to Cologne, Germany's sixth largest city. Also, Germany's oldest. About 90 percent of Cologne was destroyed during WWII, but thankfully, some of the oldest parts survived, and we were able to see them.

Like Amsterdam, Cologne is busy, and therefore I don't feel the least bit threatened, nervous, or paranoid about being pick pocketed. We walked EVERYWHERE, and when I get home I'm going to need a world-class foot massage...any takers?

Unlike Amsterdam, Cologne is much easier to find your way around. In Amsterdam, every street has a row of beautiful brick buildings and a canal. It's gorgeous, but I found that every street tends to blend together in one's memory, making it tricky to find where you're going. In Cologne, the buildings are much more distinctive, and although we've been lost a fair few times there are more landmarks. If you can find the Rhine River, you can find almost any tourist attraction. And you can see the Dom from most angles of the city, helping you find your way downtown.

The Dom was the first thing we saw when we got off the train. "Mind blowing" is a huge understatement. We were shouting out "wow!" at our first glance. The Dom is a huge, HUGE cathedral. which survived the bombings of WWII. It has the most stunning stained glass windows, turrets and steeples I've ever seen. You can walk around inside (for free), and from the inside you can see how gigantic it is. Sculptures of saints stare down at you from every angle, and row upon row of pews line the aisles.

Shayla and I paid 1 € (reduced rate when you flash your International Student Card), and climbed the belfry in the Dom. You walk up over 500 stairs...in a tight, dimly lit spiral staircase. Unlike the last bell tower I climbed in Ecuador, the stairs seemed quite solid, the railings were stable, and the upper ledge (over 300 feet in the air) is fenced off so that there is literally no chance of falling. Was it any less terrifying? No, it was not.

After climbing back down all those stairs, we decided to stop in Cologne's famous chololate museum. With your student card you can get in for 5 €. The museum shows how chocolate is made, beginning in the rainforests and ending in the shops. Did you know that 75% of cocoa farmers have never even tasted a piece of chocolate? I didn't.

Upstairs in the museum is the chocolate factory, where they hand out a free sample. I'm not going to lie, I was a little disappointed that there weren't more samples, but I would still suggest the museum to anyone travelling in Cologne.

There are tons and tons of Kebab shops in Cologne (pretty much the only places open past 7, besides the bars), and the other night I ate the most phenomenal veggie kebab known to humankind. Kudos!

The next day we headed to Bonn (just south of Cologne...Beethoven's hometown, and West Germany's capital until 1990). Bonn is not as touristy as Cologne, so it is harder to find people who speak fluent English. All in all, Bonn is a beautiful little town, with a more traditional German feel. There aren't tons and tons of things to do, but it's less expensive than Cologne, and very relaxing. I would strongly suggest it!

Now, here I am in Frankfurt. To be honest, I'm glad I came, but one day is enough. Our hostel is right in the area with the most strip clubs and sex shops in the city. It could be a rowdy night.

Until I write again...

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

The beginning of Eurotrip 2009!

2009-07-17T09:02:00.000-07:00

Well, here it is: Eurotrip 2009! I'm finally here after two whole years of making and changing plans! After a long, painstaking wait in the Calgary International Airport, another painful 8 hours in the air, and a delayed flight in London Gatwick airport, we landed! So far I've only been in Amsterdam for a day and a half, but after 8 ish hours of walking today, I can safely say that I've seen a whole lot of the original Sin City!

After arriving at the Schipol airport, buying a ticket and catching a train last night, we were given some vague directions to our hostel...and after wandering with increasingly heavy backpacks, and stress levels hitting the roof, we made it! The Stayokay Stadstoelen hostel is pretty big, and extremely expensive, but for two nights in Amsterdam, it has proven clean, and it's near all the good stuff.

Today, Shayla and I met up with her friend Sjoerd, who is local to Holland, and he took on the role of tour guide, which he perfected! He took us all around the city. We saw gorgeous old churches, went on a canal tour around the city (the canals, might I add, are the only reason why The Netherlands aren't under the sea right now), sampled Jupiler beer (excellent), and of course, walked through the infamous Red Light District...much of which has been shut down.

It's pretty mind blowing to see all of those women of all nationalities standing there behind the glass wearing fancy lingerie and doing their best to lure men their way. Although it's a must for any traveller in Amsterdam, I found it quite sad. The Red Light District is peppered with sex shops, peep shows, sketchy nightclubs, and "coffee shops" (where you can buy all kinds of dope). Photography is prohibited in the Red Light District, so despite how badly I wanted some visual memories, I had to restrain. Not only did I want to be respectful towards the prostitutes (laugh if you will), but I've heard that they can get pretty angry and sometimes violent...which I think I'd like to avoid if at all possible...after all, I've only been here a day.

Despite all the "be careful" warnings I received before leaving, I can honestly say that in Amsterdam, I did not feel threatened or uncomfortable at all. It was nice to have a local with us - especially in the Red Light District, but for the most part, everyone is friendly, and if you keep your wits about you and are aware of your surroundings - like you would be at home - you're guaranteed to have a lovely time!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all!
the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

I promise that I'll get some pictures up soon! Also, once we move on to Cologne, Frankfurt (where we meet up with Steph and Julie) and Heidlberg, expect some more blogging!

The Biggest AdrenaLINE Rush EVER

2009-04-13T09:41:00.000-07:00

I would strongly suggest ziplining at AdrenaLINE to travellers in the Victoria, BC area. AdrenaLINE is located in Sooke, which is about an hour drive west of Victoria. Ziplining is a great activity for team-bonding, parties, people seeking adventure, or stress busting.

I would like to make it clear that ziplinging is not for everyone. While it is a little nerve-wracking, and many people (including myself) find themselves shaking after the first line, if you are deathly afraid of heights and/or small areas, I would say give this one a pass.

Upon arriving at AdrenaLINE, a small building attached to a liquor store (how convenient), my two friends and I were given waivers to sign. Obviously, they instruct you to read everything closely. Unfortunately, I read the 'accidents' section a little TOO closely. I wish I hadn't. I would suggest skimming over this part, leaving most of it to your imagination, and just getting right to signing your name at the bottom.

After signing our lives away, my friends and I were grouped with seven other people (there are usually 10 to a group). Two guides were assigned to our group - one to send us off in fashion, and one to catch us. They showed us how to attach our harnesses - uncomfortable as hell - and helmets.

After being strapped into our harnesses, the guides took us up onto the platform of the 'bunny line', and gave us a very thorough rundown of how exactly ziplining worked. They demonstrated how we would be attached to the cable above, and how to step off the platform, committing yourself to midair. At the time, I thought THIS was terrifying. Let me give you a little perspective: the line was 150 ft. long, and about 15 ft. off the ground and I was nervous. There are eight ziplines on the course, ranging from 250 - 1000 ft. long and 60 - 150 ft. high. Remember when I advised height-phobics against ziplining? That would be why.

One of the main things my friends and I were wondering was how do they catch us at the bottom? I mean, we were going to be sailing through the air...they couldn't just stand there and attempt to grab us could they? I was already envisioning myself knocking one of the guides out...potentially causing some sort of expensive lawsuit.

As it turns out, there is a piece of metal attached to the cable, and connected to a rope which the guide at the bottom holds onto. Once you hit that, you slow right down. Amazing - and relieving - really!

After everyone has had a go at the practice line, the group is split into five and five. Each group is driven to the top of the course in an ATV. As one of our guides put it, "You'll be in the trees for the next hour and a half."

The guides stop a few times throughout the drive up to point out interesting enviromental landmarks...like the oldest tree in the forest, an old pipeline built in the early 20th century.

And then they tell you to look up. Waaaaay up. Directly above you is the longest zipline. We were told to watch and listen. Before we could see anything, we heard the distinctive screeching sound of a harness zipping down. Then, we saw the person go flying by. By this point, I was pretty excited, but I was also having a bit of trouble coping with the fact that later that day, that would be me!

The first line, which you approach by walking up a short suspension bridge, is only 250 ft. long, but it was much higher up, and generally looked more menacing than the practice line. Each line has a name. This one was called 'Committment'. Why? Because once you zip this one, you are committed to the rest of the course.

As I found out, ziplining is really a lot more fun than it is scary! By the second line, I was enjoying myself, and waiting eagerly for the next lines, as opposed to feeling dread. Before sending you off, the guides would make conversation, which was definitely a good calm-down trick. After every single line, whichever guide was waiting at the bottom made sure I was ok.

The guides let us try some 'tricks' down some of the next lines, including going down backwards, which was actually pretty sweet, considering how dangerous it sounds. After about four lines, you have cross another longer suspension bridge. I've never been a big fan of bridges, and I would be lying if I said I wasn't the least bit sketched out. BUT, I will say that it wasn't as bad as I thought. Just keep looking forward!

After zipping a few more lines, we finally arrived at the big one! Let me remind you that you are flying through the air for a whole KILOMETRE! The guides predicted that we would be zipping for about 35 seconds. And I must say, this particular line was probably the most fun! It's definitely not the fastest line on the course, but it is by no means the slowest! There's great scenery all around the line, and your velocity often causes you to spin. It's actually quite handy, you don't even need yo turn your head to get the full-on effect of the surroundings! After coming in for a landing, water is offered (because after flying through the trees all afternoon, you're bound to be a little parched).

The last two lines are the fastest ones in the park: on the second last one (called 'The Flying Fox' in honour of ziplines in Australia), the guides challenge you to spin around twice, and touch a tree on your left and right...which is a lot harder than it sounds! If you succeed, you get to ring the cowbell at the end, which is definitely a bonus.

After completing the course, you are offered a complimentary water bottle, as well as FINALLY being able to take off those harness. My brother, a competitive rock-climber, wears them all the time. I have a new respect for you, Sam!

Afterwards, I heard nothing but good words about the ziplining experience from everyone in the group. It's definitely not something I thought I would be doing during my exam break, but boy am I glad I went!

Close-toed shoes, such as sneakers or hikers, are required for ziplining. I would also recomment comfortable pants, because after a while, that harness can really get to you! Girls with long hair are recommended to put their hair back as well, all in the name of avoiding a nasty accident, involving a caribeaner and some hair.

The staff at AdrenaLINE are great. The guides are personable, helpful, funny, and understanding of nerves! They are knowledgeable about the surrounding environment, and are not hesitant towards questions or concerns!

AdrenaLINE is open weekends only until April 30. After that, it's open daily. For youth (5 - 17) it costs $65 for two hours, and for adults (18+) it's $75. It sounds expensive, but considering the experience, I would say that it's worth every dime. In order to go zipping, you need to call and make a reservation. I'm sure I'll go back - maybe after a few paychecks.

Oh, one more thing: watch out for Sooke-squatch!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all! the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

A (Not-So-Short) Note About Travel

2009-03-25T23:04:00.000-07:00

Wow, it's been a while! I've finished my papers, midterms, presentations, etc. (for now), and therefore, it's about time for a rant!

With my Europe trip coming closer, obviously my mind is already over there - even though technically I should be focusing more on my schoolwork, my future, and how I'm actually going to get my room packed up before I go home. But I can't help it! I can't stop thinking about my trip! I have no idea what to expect, and I hardly know anyone who has been to the places I'm going. Think of the stories I'll be able to tell!

First of all, I would like to share one of my most important goals with you. Obviously, down the road I plan to get a degree, a career...good, wholesome things like that. But right now, one thing that surpasses the others in my mind is this: I would like to have visited every continent before I turn twenty-five. Okay, maybe not Antarctica. Six out of seven continents sounds ambitious enough, doesn't it? By this summer, I'll be halfway there. I know that I can do it, it's just a matter of time, commitment, and, alas, money. Once I've touched every continent, I'm not going to stop travelling - don't worry! It just means that I've covered the basics. Think of it as the warm-up run if you will.

Now, why am I really here tonight?

Lately, I've been planning to take on the world and see as many different places, meet as many different people, and experience as many cultures as I possibly can. I'm thrilled to say that I've met tons of like-minded people who value culture and travel.

Unfortunately, I've also met a select few who are complete polar opposites.

I don't mean people who simply don't travel. I understand that travelling - especially backpacking - isn't for everyone. For differing personal, social, or financial reasons, many people choose not to travel. For some it isn't even a choice. Whom I'm addressing here are the ignorant people.

I have heard some pretty unbelievable comments in the way of cultural stereotyping. I am totally, 100% against racial discrimination. When I hear people saying things about these groups which they know nothing about, it drives me absolutely insane. I personally try to take every step I can towards keeping cultural ignorance to a minimum. I feel that the way the world is today, it can't be stressed enough how inappropriate cultural stereotypes and ignorance are - not that they weren't always.

I understand that not everyone is interested in travel or culture. That's fine! Everyone has their thing...mine is travel, yours may be sports, video games, music...the possibilities are limitless! I'm not saying that people who don't travel are all culturally unaware. I know lots of people who haven't left North America who are VERY culturally savvy. I also know people who don't travel, don't know a whole lot about other cultures, but are still very respectful to other groups. Thumbs up!

But if you just don't bother being considerate of other groups, or think it's funny to make inappropriate statements, THAT is what gets me. Before you make a comment that could be offensive, please think before you speak.

On a brighter note, I'm loving the support from my followers! Keep 'er coming!

Also, my brother is washing his Nudies in a matter of weeks! Things are looking up!

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all! the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com

Allow Me to Introduce Myself...

2009-03-12T20:44:00.000-07:00

שָׁלוֹם, hola, bonjour, oi and hello!

I'm Rebecca. You'll find the likes of me in Canada. I am an avid traveller, hence why I have chosen to call myself The Wandering Jew. Nothing gets my attention quite as well as a good, healthy dose of culture shock. Any chance I get to experience a new culture, you had better believe that I'm going to take it!

I am currently a first-year journalism student, but I've been writing forever. My main aspiration is to become a freelance travel writer, which is the main reason I started this blog. Let's be honest here, however. It's very rare than anyone can make a living off freelance travel writing alone. In order to be able to support myself, I'll probably have to tide myself over by writing for a bunch of different magazines in between my trips. That means you'll likely see my name in Canadian Living, Flare, Vice, Good Housekeeping, Today's Parent, and - dare I even say it - Cosmo.

I got bitten - hard - by the travel bug when I was seventeen. It was somewhat like the spider bite in Spider-Man, but instead of swinging off buildings and saving numerous lives, I simply have trouble staying in the same place for long periods of time. It all started with a trip to Ecuador, where I was blown away by the huge cultural differences, the friendly people, and the sense of adventure that goes hand in hand with taking a trip to a place that is so different than your normal lifestyle. Before that, I had done a fair bit of camping and travelling within Canada, and I had done the five-star, all-inclusive thing in Mexico, but until I set foot in Ecuador, I had not done any real travelling. Well. I have now sworn to travel out of a backpack, and stay exclusively in hostels so I can get the full-on experience of being in a totally different country.

Since my return from Ecuador, I have become completely obsessed with the idea of travel, and the list of places I want to see in my life could easily cross a football field...but I don't want to waste that much paper. Basically, I'm not picky about my destinations - I want to see it all! Europe, Oceania, Asia, South America, Africa...you name a place, it's most likely on the list.

I'm planning a trip to Europe this summer with my favorite travel mates, which is when the real travel writing will begin. Expect to hear more from me come July - August 2009! I look forward to becoming an online travel guide for you all. And remember, "Not all who wander are lost." (JRR Tolkien)

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? I'd love to hear them all! the-wanderingjew@hotmail.com